The turbo, manifold and other major parts can be junkyarded. Luckily toyota made factory turbo 22Rs in the mid 80s. So you can use the manifolds and stuff from one of those if you can find one. Stock turbo was a CT20, the turbo supras CT26 was a popular swap to gain a few ponies down low.

For building a bottom end for turbo use, I think some clearances and gaps need to be built accordingly. I think it was piston ring gap/clearance. Also, the stock crank should hold but the pistons should be replaced with forged. Do that, and I can't see why you couldnt run 12-15 lbs boost. The head would need studs to help hold the pressure. Its doable, just more work than I ever bothered with lol. Hell, I did the cam last. Ive always been big on porting intakes, great exhaust and a flowing carb first and foremost. Followed by a killer ignition to burn it all up. I grew up with V8s so that was the tactic we took.

 

Does intake air temp affect it good or bad? If its cooler can I increase psi? Or does it have to go down? What is all the "big stuff"? Obviously turbo.. But what else? Can I use a stock intake manifold? Can OEM pistons take the pressure?

I'm always hearing about t3/t4? Could I use one of those??

I'm thinking about running studs.. Too easy to do for a better chance of holding up.
Tomorrow I'm going to do a lot more research and start pricing things, hopefully it won't be too much of a shock!

Has anyone ever seen my generation of a truck with a turbo?

 

Turbos heat the air charge alot passing by the exhaust housing. An intercooler brings that back down. Cold air is more dense. More oxygen molecules for a given amount of air. Which can produce the proper ratio of air/fuel at a larger quantity. Skipping an intercooler makes routing easy but sacrifices some power.

The "big stuff" would be the turbo itself, an exhaust manifold/header to attach it to the block, materials to run the ducting from turbo to intake, an intercooler if you choose, the oil line and anything needed to oil the turbo, and whatever brackets and heat shields needed.

I don't know how much the stock pistons can take, but the going answer seems to be 5-8 lbs safely. Which coincides with basic turbo info that a cast piston doesnt usually survive past 10psi for long. The stock intake manifold should be fine, regardless if the boost or carb feeds it first. I suggest porting the **** out of it though, and the plennum will need some work to flow and transition better. Carbed 20rs need the same treatment though. Webers dont like boost. But they work okay to feed on top of the boost. 22R supercharger setups work that way. Shonuff built one for his old Corona. He might know more about the internals needed. LCE makes kits too. Pretty much whatever you do to put a supercharger on will be the same internally. Boost is boost.

 

A quick google search makes it seem like the hardest part to find is forged 20r pistons.. I'm only finding them for 22r.. But it was a quick search, I'll look a lot harder tomorrow when I get the time..

 

This has a lot of real results hp and tried and true techniques . Long before LC and doa got into engines
22R Tech Notes

 

I think ive read that whole site a few times now lol. Great info. As far as forged 20R pistons, good luck. Most people run the 22r block. The 20r isnt commonly built for performance. Only diff is the bore size, but that makes the pistons hard to find.

 

Litneon do you know what power your making?

It's fine if I spend more.. It will just make my build time a lot longer. Just can't be spending $10k for a motor that can't pull it's own weight..

 

That's why I say if your starting with 2 grand ..your best friend will be Oem junkyard turbos wrx eclipse ford t bird coupes audis and vw . The turbos aren't huge but will pair well with a 20r and low boost
Second using your existing exhaust manifold cut and weld fab up a manifold . Won't be pretty but won't cost much ... Junkyard inter coolers or a eBay inter cooler Charge pipes mandrel u bends from summit or jegs

A rising rate fuel pressure regulater should be bought new
your oil feed and drain can be maid or bought from them as we'll
It's not a easy road a welder will be your friend with 85% of the stuff being custom made for the 20r .

 

side note, just my $.02 -im running 17flat -no motor work, no cam, just a intake/battery swap, gears, header, clutch. can run 17 all day. its my daily driver. running 17 flat with street tires and bad launches. theoretically, with better hook up and launch R/T i should be able to hit high 16's --again, on a stock motor. just saying.

 

i dont really wanna go turbo. trying to stay N/A. i stil have some major upgrades that need to be done. in the end, im probably gonna run a stand alone, bigger injectors n stuff. but as of now, its quick. im happy.

 

I don't mean to be rude but...17's??? I feel underwhelmed.

 

So I think I'm going to go with a ct20 or ct26 turbo if I do go turbo. From what I've read they are the perfect size for what I'm trying to do, and won't break the bank. eBay has a bunch for about $100 and rebuild kits for the same or less. It's definitely a good start if nothing else..

 

I have a 5R in a 1976 toyota stout 2000cc ohv full cast iron engine, I have a removed new turbo off a subaru wrx which was given to me as they are not sought after, the 5R being a reverse flow head or non crossflow so inlet and exhaust pports are on the same side. My intention is to keep it tight with as little plumbing as possible to minimize lag sole lpg or "propane" as old kits here in Australia are cheap from holden commodore and ford falcon which have 3.8 and 4 litre engines, as lpg/propane dose not predetonate so there is no need to do any engine work and lpg/propane with boost only becomes more efficient offering better output per psi of boost than petroleum/gasoline (google 1TUF65)

 

I think I understand what your saying.. Basically go turbo and run propane so that the motor doesn't need anything special like forged pistons and rods.. Is that correct?

 

Basically
1TUF65 Mustang started with an old taxi engine not rebuilt or anything a four litre straight six cylinder, then came upgrades.
My subaru wrx turbo is set at 7psi internal waste gate as external are illegal in Australia for road use, all I will be doing to my engine is disconnecting the vacuum advance on the distributor and good oil on a draw through setup as the propane works as an intercooler and has no harmful effect on the turbo.
My uncle a retired automotive engineer and myself have been planning this for a few years and in one of his vast collection of books is a little article about a California university project with two 1978 20R hilux one stock the other sole propane turbo, part of the research was an around the US trip and the sole propane hilux ended up getting better fuel economy and power costing less to run eventhough the fuel was more expensive, with a disassembly of both engines at projects end the propane engine had far less signs of wear with boost variations of up to 10psi, unfortunately the California government shut the project down due to violation of emission laws.
The book was very early 80's and I have not been able to find anything about it online, but the brief bit of info about the project makes me want to know more about it, unfortunately the book is at my uncles so I can not post images and he is not a computer person and lives to far away

 

That's definitely something to think about! But 99% certain I'm not going to go propane..

 

Well,first off i didn't realize i was the only turbo carb guy on here so thanks for pointing that out if that is true then that is fffing awesome. second is when i get off work today ill sit down and do a write up of what im running and what i have done and still need to do