So my truck has been shuddering real bad when in reverse and full lock turning. Tires on the rear are getting torn up as well. I checked the oil (which I changed out recently) and it looks like there are metal particles so I'm assuming the 3rd memeber is toast. I happen to have a spare so I was gonna throw it in there. Seems like a pretty simple process but I just wanted to ask if there is anything I should be aware of before I swap it. I noticed what looks like old oil around the flange so I'm thinking it might be prudent to replace the seal there. Otherwise it seems like plug and play yeah?
Swapping the entire assembly? Should be pretty easy. Unbolt the drum backing plates from axle pull them out a little(be careful with the brake line. Unbolt driveshaft and unbolt 3rd and yank that shit out. Also im guna recommend getting the Trail Gear drain plugs
Be careful pulling the shafts in/out, you don't want to drag across and damage the seals, or only pull out shafts partially and let it rest on seal which can damage it too. Otherwise it's pretty straightforward. X2 on the TG low profile magnetic plugs, they're great
Sounds good. I've got a recessed/magnetic bolt on the fill but I should get one for the drain as well.
I'd switch the two plugs. Bottom one is always covered in gear oil, thus it should pick up all the debris on the magnet vs the fill hole
Do I have to pull the shaft from the tranny side? Can I just unbolt the 3rd member and support the shaft with a chain?
Just unbolt from the diff. If you pull it out the trans wrap a glove around the tail shaft of the trans or put a drip pan under it. Id say just remove it, more space to work
Both will technically work. I believe if you’re disconnecting driveshaft and reinstalling with the same diff or trans it’s often recommended to mark the bolt flanges before disassembly so they go back the way they were originally. Something to do with possible vibrations I think
I pulled the rear axles and I noticed some damage to the axel splines. Should I be worried about that? Is it worth trying to clean up? I've got some fine files that probably work. http://imgur.com/gallery/roby5sL
Cool. Noticed both the hub bearings have play. I've got a replacement set from Marlin for one side. Might try to tackle that as well.
Ok so problem. Looks like the diff I have is not an exact match for what was on there. First thing is one of the studs is not accessible (see pic). Second problem is the spacing between bolt holes on the flange is slightly different. Can I swap flanges on the diffs or should I just quit while I'm ahead and get a new diff or just put the old one back in. http://imgur.com/gallery/GNAZqSU
Realized I have the long ass stud so that shouldn't be a problem. Now my only problem is the flange. The bolt holding the flange on it labeled as one time use in the FSM so I'm not sure if I should pull it off. My other thought is am I sure the diff is the problem? There are metal shavings in the oil so I have to imagine its toast but I didn't see anything that "looked" bad.
Where’d you source the differential? I’ve seen reference to a situation where there’s need to modify things when trying to use pre-Tacoma axle housing and Tacoma’s 3rd member like when you want the factory e-locker diff on an older truck. I believe it requires a slight change in bolt pattern (drilling and welding to extend the mating flange) but otherwise fits - was that what you had to do? If you didn’t see any obvious signs of chipped gear teeth or weird wear patterns on faces of the teeth, then maybe it’s ok? Make sure you check the spider gears and carrier too for wear and smooth movement because your original problem description sounds kinda like a locked differential based on the worn tires and the shuddering at low speeds while turning. How much metal came out again? Was it chunks?
So no chunks came out at all, just particles which I'm learning is normal ish? When I get home today i'll take some pictures of the internals. I'm just not sure what else it could be.
I'm starting to think it's my brakes. I'm gonna do both axel bearing and seals, get new shoes and go back to the original diff.