This is what I’m looking at tell me what you guys think

 

Also there is 12v power at the wire coming out of the ignitor but it won’t spark when I put it by metal

 

Was this verified using a multimeter or voltmeter? The diagrams and suggested test equipment are aids used to check and test your troubleshooting level, or experience.

I say this because of how much good or bad wiring had already been performed on this project. Since it is not the original factory connections shown, most will not hazard or attempt a guess, which was why the diagrams have been suggested.

I'm not trying to be some know it all, or an Arse by suggesting that you test and write down what you have found. What you wrote above would mean that you were attempting was to ground an active circuit which would result in a blown fuse. I'll stay out of this conversation, but will watch your progress, good luck.

 

A multimeter will be one of your favorite tools. You can get a Bosch unit for about 40 from orileys that is specific to automotive. It has a tach and a dwell setting. But you could always get a cheaper one and get by.

 

The igniters are very fragile. You should never test this by placing the power line to ground. You’ve most likely “fried” your igniter. At $250, that’s an expensive lesson.

 

If it’s dead why is there 12v there?

 

I have one that I have been using

 

I ordered a repair manual hopefully that helps me in the meantime I’m just going to test ohms and voltage where needed . Thanks all for your input I Will keep posting as I go

 

I’m glad you’re getting the manual. It doesn’t take much to destroy some very expensive ignition parts.

 

Well guys I got her to start! And she idles beautifully! Turns out it was the distributor unit the whole time! Only let it run for like 10 minutes but I feel accomplished lol. Time to start transforming this old truck . THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP EVERONE!