Lite Stout Build

Discussion in 'Pre-1975 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by Street_Kleaver, Feb 26, 2013.

  1. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    Hey guys.. My 1960-something Lite-Stout. From Central Queensland, Australia.

    To Come...
    Bagged front and Rear
    Triangulated 4 link rear.
    Front Disc conversion
    Maybe a 84+ Drop spindle conversion (Measuring up atm if its worth doing)
    84+ Diff and E brake (Hand brake for Aussies)
    Rack and Pinion Power Steer (Or manual, depends what fits)
    Mildly worked 22R and 5 speed manual
    A/C fitted eventually too!

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    Spare Frame.

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    Trimmed Gearbox Crossmember to lay flat.

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    Z time

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    Did my Z differently with internal gussets and plug welded. 80+ holes drilled my wrists were smashed!

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    Halfway there and my grinder shat itself..

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    Long wheel base Tray.. Waved the plasma around and skinned it.

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    more to come..
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
  2. Rcksqrl

    Rcksqrl Enthusiast

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    Very interested on the drop spindle.... If it fits or not...
     
  3. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    The drop spindle issue is where the Tie rod mounts from. Which is from the Top on 84+ spindles. Where as the stout is from the bottom.

    The steering arm may need reaming out to suit a different Tie rod.
     
  4. burnzya

    burnzya Grand Toyotaholic

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    can't wait to see more!
     
  5. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    There is a few pros and cons about using stock spindles (78-83 disc) and 84+ drop spindles.

    If I use stock spindles I need to notch the frame 25mm (1 inch) to allow more room for the lower control arm. Also the frame needs a notch for the tie rod.

    With drop spindles I don't need to notch the frame, but with 84+ drop spindles the Tie rod slips in from the top. Where as standard slips in from the bottom.

    with both mods the frame will need notching for the Tie rods also. The 84+ drop spindle steering arm will need reaming out to suit whatever tie rod I use. I'm thinking some "No Notch" S10 tie rods. Which have like a Z shape to clear the frame. S10's have the same problem.

    I wont be running big wheels. Just 14 or 15 inch steel wheels with a 22inch tyre. (600mm rolling diameter) Like a 175/70 14.

    For steering I have 2 center take off steering racks. One is manual which is shorter and the other is Power steer.

    But so far I'm tackling one problem at a time.
     
  6. Subscan

    Subscan Member

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    been watching this on FB...cool build
     
  7. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    More!

    Front horns dropped 40mm. Tops pie cut and hammered down flat so it will flow into the tops of the rail.

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    Just have to do the bottom of the horns now. Then Finally onto the fun stuff!

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    Not sure if I'll be using Slam Specialties 5inch or 6inch bags in the front. See how much room when I cut some stuff away.

    Also getting quotes on how much to get a drag link custom made for it. So I can run 84+ power steer and idler with lite stout steering arms.
     
  8. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    Zee is done.

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    Onto setting up the steering before I mount bags.

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    Got 78-83 RN40 Hilux Disc brakes.

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    Lower Ball joints. Stud pattern is identical. Just the RN40 (right) is a larger diameter. Which needs to be used. The Stout upper ball joint has the same taper.

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    The Spindles. RN40 (left) Stout (Right)
    Use the Stout steering arm, but the holes need to be drilled out to 12.5mm on the steering arm to use the RN40 larger diameter bolts.

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  9. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    Power Steering box and idler mounted. Geometry all set up. Just waiting for the bags to arrive and onto the next step!

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    Lower Control arm. Spring cup cut out, sectioned so the bag is mounted lower. New plate tacked in place.

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    Bag cup. Angled so the bag compresses square/even. Threaded rod to secure it in place. I'll use the old shock upper mount for the air line.

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    Tight fit using Slam Specialties SS-5 bag. The chassis is upside down. Easier to work on! No sparks in the face!

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    Its set up to lay frame on a larger diameter tyre than stock. Which is always a win. :waytogo:
     
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2013
  11. patrickgraven

    patrickgraven Veteran

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    Looking good. Why did you run internal gussets? Is that part of having to have it engineered for your registration.
     
  12. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    Pretty much. But also it looks a lot more neater. Just a more labor intensive way of doing it. Worked out well because the power steering box had to be mounted back in a similar position to where it was stock on the frame rails.
     
  13. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    Its laying frame. With Bigger wheels than stock, power steering and disc brakes. Pretty happy about that!

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    I might not win hearts with this, But this is a family heirloom. My old mans Corvette 283 is going in the Truck.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. MilehighHilux

    MilehighHilux Enthusiast

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  15. Rcksqrl

    Rcksqrl Enthusiast

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    How much did you raise the front with the Z-cut?

    Thanks for posting everything up! Im seriously considering the drop spindles and mod for power steering. Not quite ready to bag it yet though!
     
  16. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    It's Z'd 45mm. Also I didn't end up using drop spindles. The tie rods mounted the wrong way. So I used 78-83 Hilux spindles and brakes with the Stout steering arm that bolts onto the back of the spindle. It had to be drilled out to take the larger hilux bolts.

    With sectioning the lower arms 15mm and pie cutting the upper control arms I managed to get a extra 50mm of drop to lay out on larger wheels.
     
  17. Rcksqrl

    Rcksqrl Enthusiast

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    IF I do it ill likely out rack and pinion that goes with the 3rz I've got sitting in garage. Figure we cab weld up something that will work, may just use rod ends instead of tie rods. Works great fir my iff road stuff that is driven in road so may just di the same thing! Love to have it a bit lower but the coils can't go any lower so spindles are the best way to keep it static dropped.
     
  18. Street_Kleaver

    Street_Kleaver Member

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    You may be able to get drop spindles without the tierod hole drilled. So you can drill/ream your own from the under side to suit the Stout tie rod ends.

    Problem being then is that you will not be able to run 14 inch wheels due to the tie rod arm wouldnt clear the inside of the wheel. I'm not sure what wheel you'll be able to run. It would have to be much larger since the drop spindle cast steering arm is tucking in closer to the spindle compared to the stout.
     
  19. Rcksqrl

    Rcksqrl Enthusiast

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    Dang good point! Glad you mentioned it. Hmmmm, guess ill have to do some more figuring!
     
  20. NashMan

    NashMan Toyotaholic

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    vvvvvvvet motor eh to bad your not running a mono leaf in the rear
     

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