Initial Startup Steps

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by Smugmetal, Aug 12, 2019.

  1. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    So I am nearing the end of my motor swap (original 20R spun a bearing and I found a local, running 20R for a decent price so I just swapped that in). The truck has been sitting for about 14 months (shoulder surgery and another kid will really derail any plans lol). I had some Sta-bil in the tank from when I stored it the previous winter, but I am going to remove the gas anyway and I replaced the fuel filter, to eliminate as many factors as I can. The engine itself has been sitting drained for 12 months. Just buttoned everything up last night and I will be adding the fluids tonight. Thing is, I had to swap the crankshaft pulley and distributor from my original engine so I can no longer trust the timing. I swapped the carb as well, since the other one was a little worse for wear, so I can at least trust the idle set point.

    As far as the initial startup goes, I just had some questions/concerns:
    - Am I okay to just fill it will oil and try to start it or should I try to prime it first?
    - As far as timing, I set the pulley to 0, but need to verify it is at TDC on #1. But then you just hook up the timing light and turn it on? I don't trust myself to do it by ear
    - I assume I can burp the cooling system once I get the timing set

    Anything else? Seems straightforward enough, but I've never done this before so I figured I'd ask.

    Thanks for any input
     
  2. fred heath

    fred heath Enthusiast

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    Pre fill your oil filter with new oil before you install it. As long as the oil pump is in good shape and the crankcase is full, you should be good for an initial startup.
    As far as TDC goes, with all spark plugs removed (easier cranking) rotate the crank pulley with a socket and ratchet while holding your thumb over the number 1 plug hole. When you feel pressure on you thumb you’re approaching TDC. The crank pulley should be approaching 0 or TDC. Set the pulley at TDC and install your distributor so the rotor is positioned under the #1 spark plug post on the distributor cap.
    This should help you get started, then do a final tune after its running.
     
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  3. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Thanks Fred!

    Fingers crossed the oil pump is good. Honest question, how much oil can you actually get in it with it mounted on the side?
     
  4. fred heath

    fred heath Enthusiast

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    Hold the filter upright and pour the oil into the filter until almost full. Let the oil soak into the element (it will) then keep topping it off until the oil no longer gets absorbed. Wipe some new oil over the rubber seal before installing.
    The reason you want to pre fill the filter is starts oiling the cylinders immediately. With a “dry” filter you have to wait for the oil pump to do the same thing. This means your cylinders are running with no oil for a few seconds.
     
  5. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Yeah I understand pre-filling the oil filter, I do that on my other cars where it's mounted vertically. But how are you supposed to do that with the oil filter mounted horizontally on the side of the engine? I would imagine it just spills out before you can get the filter screwed on?
     
  6. fred heath

    fred heath Enthusiast

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    You may loose a little oil when you go from vertical to horizontal, but not much. The important thing is the filter element is saturated with oil which is the whole purpose of pre filling.
     
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  7. Clay

    Clay Member

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    To add to the suggestions above, I would leave the ignition coil and fuel line disconnected from the engine and crank the engine for maybe 15-30secs. This should pump enough oil around the engine prior to running it. Put the fuel line into a catch can of some sort. Don't wait very long after or the oil will just drain back into the pan.

    You'll likely want to replace the fuel filter again. either after 30 minutes of running or if things seem okay wait till after you fill the tank up a couple of times.

    Leave the radiator cap off during initial start and check the coolant level within a few minutes of it running. You should be able to top it off then. You'll likely want to check it again later though.

    Last comment, as someone who has done this himself, don't run the engine if the cylinder walls are rusted. You'll wipe out your rings and take the rest of the engine with it. 14months probably isn't a big deal, but it's worth it in my opinion to shove an inspection camera or at least look into the spark plug hole for any obvious signs. Another spot worth checking is around your valve stems, if there is rust don't bother running it, you'll just wipe the valve guides out.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019
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  8. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Thanks Clay those are some really good tips. Wish I had known to check the cylinder walls and valve stems when I was buying the engine. Oh well, all I can do is check now and pray for the best.
     
  9. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Checked the valves and cylinder walls last night and both look great. Thanks again for that advice, I feel better knowing that those areas are in good shape. Drained the old gas out last night, added the oil, changed the spark plugs, and was going to add the coolant when I noticed the bottom port of the expansion tank and hose were both clogged. Cleaned out the tank and will be getting a new hose today. The tank is rough shape tho, really brittle, so I will be replacing that.

    Screenshot_20190814-200036_DEPSTECH.jpg Screenshot_20190814-200524_DEPSTECH.jpg Screenshot_20190814-200638_DEPSTECH.jpg Screenshot_20190814-201141_DEPSTECH.jpg
     
  10. Clay

    Clay Member

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    Looking good, dude. Good luck!
     
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  11. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Well I'm stuck. Engine cranks but won't turn over. I know timing is good. I verified spark to all plugs and ignition coil. Fuel pump is working and it's getting fuel. I think the issue is the carb. As the engine is cranking the carb back fires occasionally. When I swapped carbs from the "old" engine to the "new" engine there were some differences with the vacuum lines and plugs. The "new" engine came from a 79 or an 80 and mine is a 78. I made the carb look exactly like it did off the old engine with the lines and plugs so I'm fairly confident about that. Is it worth trying to just rebuild the carb? Or is there anything else I should try first before I just start throwing money at this thing?
     
  12. fred heath

    fred heath Enthusiast

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    Are you sure you have the correct firing order on your spark plug wires? Small carb vacuum lines shouldn’t prevent the engine starting. Backfire through the carb is usually timing related.
     
  13. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Yes, the spark plug wires are correct. I'll be looking at it a little more today. Hopefully think of something
     
  14. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Sounds like a timing issue
     
  15. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    I checked the timing again after these issues. Cylinder #1 at TDC (verified with an inspection camera) crank pulley notch set at 0, dizzy rotor just slightly counterclockwise of spark plug #1 on the cap, all spark plug wires going to the correct cylinders.

    I think I need to take another look at cleaning the carb. I'm wondering if the float is stuck or something. When I messed with the throttle linkage, looking into the carb and with the fuel pump running, I could not see the fuel being sprayed in. Even when I gave it a spritz of starter fluid it wouldn't turn over.
     
  16. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Pour some fuel in the bowl and try starting it that way.
     
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  17. Clay

    Clay Member

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    Your timing is out 180 degrees i think, which bear in mind that #1 TDC happens twice for a 4-stroke engine. You should verify #1 TDC on the compression stroke in order to setup timing. If you set it on the exhaust stroke, you get backfires typically. Pull #1 spark plug, and plug the hole with your thumb as you turn the engine over by hand. wait till you feel compression and that's when you know you're at the right stroke (then reset your dizzy). Don't put your thumb in so far that it gets pinched.
     
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  18. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Didnt realize you had pulled the dizzy out. Triple check timing, fill bowl and try firing
     
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  19. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Okay thanks will do!
     

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