Does anyone know where to find precise info about the differential in offset between the drum and disc wheels? I've been looking at 10mm spacers, but there are also 8mm and 12mm. I'd like to make this as exact as possible, but I can't find specific offset and backspace measurements.

 

It also occurs to me that I'll need the proportioning valve that goes with the disc format too. Yes? 75-78 is a little hard to find. Anyone know if there are other years that are compatible? I've read about mixing years and models in other threads, but I'd like to keep the system as consistent as possible.

Would a universal adjustable one like this be easy enough to use?

 

79-83 has a proportioning valve bolted to the MC/Booster assembly(at least mine did) or you can look at the wilwood proportioning valve. Look thru summitracing, theyll have a few options

 

Decision to be made:

Use all 75-78 parts and figure out how to move the clutch cylinder over slightly

or..

Use 79-83 booster and find a way to extend the pin so that the pedal doesn't bottom out against my thick carpet and padding

pro/con for either?

 

Get the pushrod from the 79-83 booster. In case its longer. I cant remember which i used for mine. The only change i had to make was cut and fold up the pinch weld on the firewall behind the booster

 

From what I can tell from the images, the 75-78 rod is longer. The pedal connection issue I read about was for the shorter 79-83 booster, especially when using the spacer from '74 to clear the weld. If I can find out the threading of the rod on the 79-83 booster(M8?), I could extend it with a coupling nut and locknuts and/or threadlock would make it pretty sound. Since the booster fits better, that seems like a less annoying problem to solve than relocating the clutch cylinder.

 

OK, here's the parts list as it stands:

Spindles/Knuckle, Hubs, Back plates, Tie Rod Links, Brake Line Brackets are being shipped by a kindly soul on this site

These are the bits that I am getting new or remanufactured:

Shopping Cart

1974 TOYOTA PICKUP
Brake & Wheel Hub : Centric Drum Brake Hardware Kit
Brake & Wheel Hub : Centric Wheel Cylinder
Brake & Wheel Hub : Dynamic Friction Brake Shoe

1977 TOYOTA PICKUP
Brake & Wheel Hub : Timken Wheel Bearings
Brake & Wheel Hub : Centric Caliper w/ Hardware
Brake & Wheel Hub : Wheel Seal

1981 TOYOTA PICKUP
Brake & Wheel Hub : Centric Master Cylinder
Brake & Wheel Hub : Power Brake Exchange Power Brake Booster

Hart Drilled Brake Rotors + Ceramic Brake Pads

H&R Trak+ Wheel Spacers DRS 10mm 5x114.3 12x1.5 Thread 60.1

LCE Stainless Brake Lines - 79-95 P/U (2wd) (+3") Part Number: 1055126

Speedway Motors Brake Proportioning Valve Kit With Fittings

Hard lines I'll buy by the foot locally and bend/flare them myself. I imagine I'll have to get a few adapters and hydro fittings, as well as other misc. like bolts for the calipers, something to help the push rod on the booster to fit the pedal better, and other whatnot that I'm sure I'll encounter along the way.

Am I missing anything critical?

If anyone has stock wheels from 75-78, I'd be so very grateful if you could take a measurement of the backspacing. I'd really love to compare it with my 74 wheels so that I can make sure I have the spacer thickness exactly right.

 

Hey Jetas,

In your build thread you said:
'The braided lines are super nice. I finally got around to running the hardline to the rear and put in the rear braided line, i HAD to make it work. Wasnt a drop in replacement like the fronts ended up being.'

I am also determined to use the SS line for the rear. What did you have to do to it? Adapters? Rethreading?

Also, BTW, thanks for posting details about your Speedo replacement! I'm about to do the same, but using the programmable one that will work with the Electronic Speed Sensor on my Trans. It's helpful to see how yours fits.

 

the tab near the axle where the hardline meets the soft line had to be drilled out slightly. Honestly nothing crazy.

and for the speedo its GPS so it doesnt even connect to the trans.

 

Do you already have an aftermarket speedo? Otherwise it would be cable driven. The GPS units are nice but the brands like autometer are an extra $200 for that. Apparently toyota transmissions use the same thread on the trans for the speedo as GM and Chrysler. I just used the trail gear one. Had to pick up a pigtail on ebay. I used 3 1/8th" gauges that are a little smaller then the holes. Made a mounting surface out of sheet metal thats just 2 squares that have 3 screws holes each. Then the surface mount hardware goes on the gauges to secure them. I haven't done anything about turn signal indicators yet but you can easily figure out that out.

A tip on buying autometer gauges. Advance auto has pretty much the full collection online. They always have a 15% or 20% off promo code that works with autometer the last time I bought a gauge. If no code at the top of the page throw something in the cart and wait a day. If they have your email they will send you one.

 

The promo code is for purchases over $100, or else I’d have used it when I got my 1-1/2” mini gauges.

The reason I don’t have a speedo is that my truck has a 5vz-fe and the accompanying trans has an electric speed sensor, so no cable. That was one of the things the PO gave up on adapting. ...pretty much whacked the engine in there and sold it as a work in progress. I could use the gps one for easy install but since I have the sensor I might as well get a programmable gauge that can be calibrated to it. Those speedhut sensors are nice, and they have lots of aesthetic options. Plus they come in a 4” diameter that’s close to fitting the existing opening.

Anyhow, that monster engine is why I need better brakes.

 

Forgot that part lmao. Pretty much any speedo will be over $100. I was going to say with 20 percent off you are saving so much that the GPS dosnt seem that bad. Especially for autometer combo gauges. You'll probably be well over 500 for 2 gauge packs.

 

I actually really like the mini gauges for temp, oil pressure and amps. They were very affordable. So far they work fine, once I got the right thread adapters for the senders, and they fit conveniently next to the parking brake handle under the ashtray. It’s a big improvement over having just temp and warning lights.

I hadn’t realized that autometer made a gps speedo. Thanks.

Any reason not to use the programmable one?

 

Can you post some pictures of the engine bay and how its mounted in? Ive been curious to see someone do that swap.

ive turned a few people onto the speedhut gauges and i havent had any issues with mine. And the install was painless

 

Definitely. I’ll get better pictures of the motor mounts and exhaust later. Here’s one that I happen to have on the phone. There wasn’t room for the clutch fan, so it’s got an electric fan with a temp sensor on the front of the radiator. It works out pretty well. That box in front of the clutch cylinder is the charcoal canisters for the emissions control stuff. This thing can actually pass the DEQ test here.

 

The engine swap was done by Walker customs in Vancouver WA. They did a rather competent job of making it all fit and work correctly, down to reprogramming the computer. There were still a lot of details for me to solve though. The reverse light and neutral safety switch are jammed up against the body, so I had to cut away the plastic wiring connectors and put spade connectors directly onto the terminals. As you might have seen, I’m having to pretty much reinvent the lever link for the parking brake because the trans cross member is swapped. I’ll post more on that as I get it working. Also, there’s something hinky about the left tie rods. The stock part for the inner doesn’t appear to fit the sleeve, so I fear something might have been altered. I’ll figure that out when I change the knuckles. Blargh! So many details!

 

Damn its crazy how compact and fitted it looks in there. Did they have to modify the transmission tunnel at all?

 

Not that I can tell. The cross member puts it just clear of the walls. That’s why the switches are so obstructed. Stay tuned for pics.

 

Here’s some images of the engine installation. It’s a little murky but maybe interesting. Sometime when I have it lifted up more I can post better shots.

It looks as though maybe the idler arm has been lowered so that the steering components clear the trans.

Mounts welded to frame:

The only beef I have with it is that the manifold is sometimes vibrating against the steering gear and I’m a little concerned about the long term consequences. This button on top is getting a little battered:

 

Oh damn they definitely moved the idler down. They shouldve just modified the drag link to clear the trans.
And i want to say that the little button you're talking about on the steering box is maybe the fill port for the oil.