If its full rich all the time odds are it needs an AAP valve. Its the Auxiliary Accelerator Pump and when it ruptures it lets the vacuum line connected to it suck pure fuel. Cheap part and easy to replace.

 

Much appreciated White Trash, I will look in to that!

 

Switched out some plugs, all black after two months...

 

Partsgeek prices for AAP diaphragms:
Main AAP diaphragm - $35+
Sub AAP diaphragm - $40+

Since the truck started having problems I have been leaning towards a Weber...Anybody know how easy it is to pass emissions in Tucson? I would consider Weber and EGR delete/Ect., with stock air cleaner adapter from LCE.

Anybody have anything to say about LCE's Weber kit? It's a bit more then normal...but has the better adapter (base) plate and I found one with a pressure regulator for a pretty acceptable price.

Is the pressure regulator needed for 2wd? I see mostly folks with 2wd/Weber and no regulator; And 4wd guys with pressure regulator w/ their Weber setup.

Maybe better MPG, tuning, or is it just better for angles?

I'm gonna throw up a video soon of Bonnie warmin' up...but first I want to test the vacuum system...maybe I'll get some footy of the vac-testing too!

 

So, just inspecting things I found a kinked vacuum line w/ a yellow/white valve or whatever the thing in-line is. The line was really short and kinked at both ends of the (in-line) valve...pulled it out and the line just tore out both ends; Cleaned it all up checked the yellow/white thing for air passage, plugged from both sides...Replaced the clogged one for something (vacuum component that looked the same) I had laying around that allowed air through both sides (is it meant to do that?) with some clean/longer lines...haven't started it yet...


Pic 1: dirty

Pic 2: A mechanic told me it could be my needle and seat, or float...

Pic 3: old "valve" next to new "valve" and new lines

Pic 4: In the center of the frame: carb component that I replaced the line and "valve" (not sure what either are...carb component or the thing I'm calling "valve")

 

back to inspecting vacuum lines/components...

 

Okay so, found the AAP (Auxiliary Acceleration Pump) and broke the line free, it was full of gas. With two lines I made plugs for both ends of the AAP circuit. With both the AAP plugged and its corresponding point on the TSVS (Thermostatic Vacuum Switching Valve) plugged, it runs much better!

Can the AAP just be left plugged? I don't want to fix a bunch of the carb stuff if I'm just going to put a Weber on...

I test drove the whip, and I was then able to set the timing (after it got warmed up) as close as its been in a while!

Pic 1: AAP (center; behind bend in fuel line)

pic 2/3: wet (w/ gas) line coming out of AAP

 

Videos soon!

 

I couldn't tell you how hard or easy it is to pass emissions since I don't have them in my 'hood.


If you are going to run a weber then just leave the AAP plugged and run it till then. I'm absolutely happy with the webers on both of my trucks. One is running a 4 psi electric pump with no regulator and the other is running a stock mechanical (with return line) pump on the other and they are both great.

 

You're great White Trash, thank you!

And do you use the two-piece base plate or LCE's?

Also did you get your Weber from Redline?

 

I haven't had any vacuum leak issues with the 2 piece adapter but I still went with the trans-dapt 1 piece when I put the 38/38 on my 90. If you go with 1 piece be forewarned that you'll have to raise the linkage up to match it's height and I'd recommend against the stock air filter adapter. Just grab the adapter for a 5 1/8" neck standard air filter housing and run that.

 

Hmmm, no issues with the two piece...cool! "Trans-dapt"? A manufacturer I'm guessing.

As for the single piece, I have cable throttle, so will it still be an issue?

For performance reasons? I would get it to fool the visual emissions test...

 

Video Video Video

Bonnie the silver screen star

Bonnie always been a drama whore...

Pop Pop Video Video

 

I'm not saying I don't know people that have had issues with the 2 piece but I personally haven't had the same nightmare as some. Yes trans-dapt is a brand that makes a nice 1 piece adapter. I'm just not a fan of the factory air filter housing. It's big and clunky and just not much to look at. Besides odds are the emissions testing place will take a look at the carb and recognize that it isn't the stock piece. But you may get away with it.

 

Just got word that Bonnie started cold nice and easy

Leaking AAP had been strangling her, cold and at idle.

Now, it's almost normal!!

Thanks for the tip White Trash!

 

Yeah, I read a few...one guy was changing the gasket out like every two months...

Word

I heard that...But they would notice a different air filter for sure. The stock air filter covers quite a lot, and even if I removed all the clutter and block off/mockup the EGR they prolly won't notice. The visual is pretty much: Shiny turbo aftermarket stuff? No. EGR? Yes.

They wouldn't know a Weber from the stock carb...They barely look...we'll see...(fingers crossed)

 

Does the Trans-Dapt 1-peice still require raising the linkage, if it's cable throttle? @White Trash

 

Yes the 1 piece requires raising the linkage to match the carb height. All toyotas from 79 and up are cable so it's the same story with all of them.

 

Okay, I see...I was picturing the crazy 22r Celica linkage, I've seen, flopping around on the firewall...and moving that...Thanks for all the help!

 

I may have stumbled upon a glorious discovery! Check it out here...