Switched back to the stock AFM and am now pushing 10+ psi of boost, so I think I shall keep it this way. I haven't had much time to work on the truck, but need to soon. I have been having trouble starting when parked for a few days. I've been having to jump terminals for the fuel pump to get things started. I've also been having battery drain issues (temporarily solved with a solar trickle charger on the dash).

I used to have a tool box mounted in the bed of the truck, but took it off to put a camper shell on. The toolbox had been sitting in between my truck and my garage, and it was filled with a bunch of original parts from the truck and a bunch of tools. Last week I went to go to work and noticed that my toolbox was missing. Some asshole stole it. A lot of the parts I kept in there are irreplaceable 22RTE specific parts, and I also had my jack and jack stands in there.

 

Damn bro.. that sucks! I feel your frustration, they recently hit me too. Keep your head up, all that is replaceable, even if it feels like it's not.

 

That really sucks dude. Security cameras are a great investment if you're storing things outside

 

I ordered some drop spindles, so it is time to redo the front end.

 

New spindles are here, and I am rethinking a lot of things. brakes, shocks, UCAs, tie rod ends/ steering components. It all adds up, don't it?

 

Ball joints and tie rods alone are a good chunk on their own

 

Recommend either powder coat or por-15 ur drop spindles.

Have u thought of going coilover conversion for the front and eliminate the torsion bars? Just curious.

 

I am definitely considering coilovers... and a bigger brake upgrade. The problem is that there is this stuff called money, and those upgrades take a LOT of that money stuff of mine and give it to other people.

 

Yep know the feeling.

 

i got some monomax shocks for the rear sitting on the workbench now. I hope that not having the spring assisted shocks will level out the truck, there is a bit too much rake for me right now.

The big problem is that I have some sort of parasitic battery drain. I have a solar trickle charger that is keeping the battery from dying, but not charged enough to start. It is a real pain in the ass having to jump the truck every time I want to drive it, so any tips on tracking down a power drain are extremely appreciated.

 

Yea that sucks.. if you have a volt meter, check to make sure your alternator is correctly charging at fast idle. Another thing you can use is an ammeter.. it clamps over wires to detect voltage withing electrical systems without taking them apart. Their like $20. Maybe that will help you find your gremlin

 

Where did you get your spring assisted shocks from?

 

They are Monroe Load Adjust shocks. They are fine in the rear, but the fronts were too springy.

The alternator works fine. If I do get it started, it fully charges, and it is good for a day or two.

Ammeter, eh? I'll look into that, Thanks man!

 

I forgot to post this a few weeks ago. I got new tail lights, and installed all LED bulbs in them.



To eliminate 'hyperflash' I soldered in resistor to each turn signal circuit:

 

I found this last night:


I usually don't like to trust Youtube University, but this was super helpful.

I did the test and found 4 fuses that when pulled dropped the amp drain: Haz/Horn, EFI, Stop, and Dome. I then went through the wiring diagrams in my Haynes Manual. There is a lot of branching on some of these circuits like how the Dome light also leads to the radio. I'm going to continue this process of monitoring battery drain and pulling these distil circuits one by one to further narrow down the true issues.

 

Was the hyper flash pretty bad or you just anticipated it..? I have LEDs but no resistors yet.. we would need them at all 4 corners? Or can it be wired into the signal wire?

 

I just anticipated it.

You need one resistor per bulb you replace, because they mimic the resistance of a single bulb.

 

I've been looking at the wiring diagrams in my Haynes manual, and they have "early model" and "late model" diagrams. Does anyone know if 1986 is "early" or "late"? This is something that I have been confused by ever since I started working on these trucks.

 

there's a thread on here laser block identification that shows where to look for on the block where it had flat spot where the turbo oil feed/return is/should go on a late model which happens to be 85-95..

 

Well, I decided to do some things.

A lot of the electrical work that I have done both in the cab amd under the hood has been just adding and splicing and not the most tip top work. So I decided to pull the dash and the harness apart to consolidate and clean up all the wiring. Some of my grou d points are random bolts in the chassis, so I want to get those all correct.
While I am at it, I will try to tuck a lot in the engine bay to clean things up.
It is a lot of work, but I think it will pay off in the end.