Ok I'm fixing to start bagging the front of my truck to get the ball rolling. I know I need torsion brackets, line, fittings, compressor, tank, valves, etc. But I'm going to triangulate my lowers. Any insight on what needs to be done what needs to be moved what is best. Just any help at all for a starting point will be greatly appreciated.

 

Before I say anything else, What size rim/tire you gonna run cause that will determine a few KEY factors of moving/cutting/etc

 

18s on the front with 225/40/18

 

Someone sells a triangulating kit. I forget who look on streetsource.com I think it was like 50$

 

You are aware that you don't need to triangulate your lowers although it is better right?

 

I know but I need to get rid of those damn strut rod supports.

 

18' with a 40 series you will need to relocate the booster i believe, and if not that...for sure the clutch master. you will need to tub the firewall and I think you have to pie cut the upper arms to allow the balljoint not to bind.

put the bag as far inwards towards the frame as possible.

 

You wont need to relocate the brake booster or clutch master until you are laying the truck out flat. And that calls for a Z'd front frame. You shouldn't be too close to the clutch master, because when bagging a 89-95 truck, you install a 1987 Toyota truck clutch master, because its 3/4" to 1" shorter. Your truck already has it.
When you triangulate your lowers, you might want to use an adjustable bar end where the new tri-arm mounts to the frame, so you still have the caster adjustment. The lower control arm bushing is rubber, and has some play, and the strut rod will be under some load when you unbolt it. So I advise you to triangulate your lowers while the strut rod is still attached to the lower control arm and frame. After your added tri-arm is welded and the mount is attached to the frame, you can unbolt the strut rod.
I had a problem with caster adjustment on my truck. The addition of the adjustable bar end will save you the headache that I went through. Some dopes might tell you that "aftermarket lower arms don't have a adjustable bar end, so you don't need it", but they aren't correct because the aftermarket lower control arms don't use the O.E.M. lower control arm bushing that has all that play in it. And that's why they are dopes.
Hope this helps.

 

Make sure you cut away & retub the front wheel wells or the tire when to the stop will pull the tie rod ends out!!
Put the new tubs as high up as you can & tub the fire wall or the tires will hit !
Didn't move my booster or clutch master ,but I'm not bodied dropped!

 

ya i guess being stock floored has made room super tight for me, forgot abou that when i responded.

no sense in bagging a truck if you are not going to Z it though, just my opinion. do it correctly and compeltely the first time.

 

oh, and dont build your lowers on the truck please. take them off, slide some allthread through the bushing of the LCA and put a bushing a bit further from the arm so they are the very least have a pivot on the same rotating axis/point whatever you want to call it. if it's a half inch forward, its going to bind like hell. just sayin

 

Good call. Seems like the smartest thing would be to remove the lowers, put the all thread through and find the "adjustable bar end" location. (Be sure to place the tri-bar out of the path of the wheel's working area. Add the tri-bar. Weld it all up. Then bolt the lower back on. Bolt the strut bar back on, then weld the tri-bar mount in place. This will locate the lower control arm where it was before the triangulation started. Then remove the strut-rod. If you dont take the extra steps to make sure you are locating everything where it was before the mod, your front wheel locations may move forwards or back alittle, making it impossible to align the tow in/out properly.

 

Great advice guys. Keep it coming!

 

3/4 all thread with 1 sided shaved down a butt hair so its snug cause it was to large for the control arm hole

 

Not doing a "Z" doesent mean that it is "incomplete or incorrect". Just finishing mine up and is its not Z'ed. It's all in what you want and what is important to you...

 

Most people like theyre truck to lay flat. Seein a yota that aint Z'd for sone reason looks akward and incomplete to me. Some people jus want bags so they do the minimum for it to lay just to say its bagged and it lays

 

exactly. it looks unfinished. if you just want to be bagged for the sake of being bagged...dont Z it. if you want to be bagged to lay flat out (like you should) and possibly BD it later...not Zing the frame makes the job incomplete.

 

Looks like we got the thread for people against not Zing your bagged truck here. Unsubscribed...

 

Dont take it personal bro. Its a public forum, everyone is guna have their own opinion. No one is talking down on ur truck were just all stating our POV