When mine was static I had mine connected still. Just had to adjust it a bit. For low reference I was 1" away from axel on frame. There is a single cable from the e brake handle to about the center of the truck then it has a splitter where the two cables run to each drum brake. Pretty simple setup.

 

Are you going to coat the inside of the rails with something to keep them from rusting

 

No...I don't think I will be around when 3/16 steel rusts through


But I have been back in the garage...just messing around. Got the head back and painted the block. Did some mock up because I'm impatient.

 

Wow that looks killer. Great work. Damn that is so clean and fresh

 

Well the frame table done it's duty. I took the cab off the frame and then the frame off the table and disassembled my table then made a porch swing out of the 2x4s lol. But the cab mounts were modified to fit this frame with the amount of drop..I set the frame down and then put the cab on...starting to get somewhere now.

 

Looking good man!!!

 

x2 !!

Following this one closely !

The engine has come up super neat mate!!

 

Started the Trans tunnel. It's stock floored obviously. So the Trans tunnel needs to be raised or rebuilt. I'm doing a hybrid as I have no metal forming tools. Besides a rubber hammer a vise and channel lock pliers lol...I program a CMM so angles are 2nd nature to me though lol...here's where I am so far.

 

Looks real good. I personally want to see more on the inside of the rear sliding window, I think that's bitchin'. As for forming metal a lot can be done without actual metal forming tools. All it takes is a little inspiration and perspiration.

 

The rear window was rather easy. Not a novice mod. U gotta have big balls to cut out a rear chunk of a perfect cab. This thing runs from the top of the roof to the top of the bed. Placement is crucial. Anything behind the seat u can forget. There will be no storage area. The rear door of the 4runner is arched
So the bottom section arches the opposite angle of the seats..

 

I don't have any issues cutting and welding sheet-metal I grew up shaving body panels smooth among other things. I figure that's a third gen 4runner liftgate. I see one every so often in the parking lot at my 2nd job (projectionist). I'm wondering if there were any way to just used the section of the liftgate that has the window guides then just use a scissor lift from something that doesn't arch so much. That way you don't lose quite as much space behind the seats (especially for a single cab).

 

No sir, the glass is curved. It has to have that arch.

 

This evening I will post photos of the installed part. When I first got it I thought Id have to use the wire harness that was in the door, but theres a huge relay in there that wont allow the window to lower if this/that, and wiring for the defrost lines...wiper motor..tag lights...i tried to ohm each wire out, then remove it from the harness. Then I had a lightbulb moment and figured out I could just use a standard relay. (I had the forethought to grab the oem switch out of the console...and guess what, it snaps perfectly into the delete panel beside the dimmer knob on our dash! Who would have known. So I bought some relays and sure enough it works, so to the trash went the factory mega relay and the associated wiring.

Removing the window frame was a mf'r. There is so much bracing inside that window frame its ridicuous. This 4runner was at the salvage yard because a tree fell on it, come to think of it...the rear section held its shape...this is prob by design in the event of a rollover. Either way..when you think its free, it isnt. Thers prob more metal attaching what we want to what we dont want. But when you get it out, make a template, allow about an inch all the way around. This will take up all available real estate on the rear section of cab..

The way I cut mine it looks like a factory bend at the top and bottom, the sides match, but the upper corners will need to be blended with additional sheetmetal. You will see that this evening when I post pics. I am unsure of how the raised trans tunnel will affect the windows travel, I guess I could put a battery in there and cycle it. I read a long time ago that a traditional bodied truck wont allow the window to go all the way down. I am stock floored, so Ill know soon. Retain the inside plastic door cover, this will clean it up alot, the raised trans tunnels always look like crap to me so this will be the perfect base to begin the custom console...

Pics later.

 

Very interesting. Love all the engineering involved. I really like the rear disc brake conversion. Nice work

 

Yeah that window should work just like any window motor. You don't even need a relay. Depending on how fancy you want to get you can wire up a 6 pin rocker swith or a 5 pin rocker switch.

Here is how to wire it up with a 5 pin.



Here's a switch:

http://www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Plast...429125068&sr=8-1&keywords=5+pin+window+switch

 

Pics!

 

Looks awesome! Have you tested the seats yet?

 

I have. 4runner buckets sit just fine. I'm only 5'10 and 165...so I don't need a lot of room lol

 

Looks awesome!

 

Just to update this: Im at this point now, and no...the cab does NOT have to be opened up or "channeled" to lay on the rocker, much less the pinch...when using 2x3.My dumba$$ traced the frame out on the bottom of the cab before I removed it then I set out with a sawzall and removed the offending section...now I have to replace it...for nothing.