Discussion in '1989-1995 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by Xs5875, Oct 27, 2014.
Very Nice ! I would be interested in that brake conversion.
Can you give me some info on that distributor and cap setup? For instance, is it a 84-88 cap and rotor or the factory cap and rotor? I installed the 84-88 cap and rotor on my factory distributor with the MSD wires and have had NOTHING but problems with the truck running right since then, but everyone said it would be possible to do so. Also, could you PM me the info on the disc brake setup?
That is a 94 distributor, but a cap for an '82 model. The difference being the boot clips not being there. This allows the use of a "universal" type plug wire. Last truck (in my sig) I used MSD cut to length wires, boots and terminals and it ran fine. I went to the parts store, had them pull a cap from a 94 and a 82. I used a tape measure and a straight edge to measure the distance from the base to the spring loaded button that rides on the rotor button and it was the same, so I knew it would work....!
As far as the disk conversion...I knew nothing about it until I spent like 2 days devoted to researching the topic.
I used street source, a few threads here..and just plain ole google for alot of info.
Everyone has heard of "Seth" from Twisted Minis....his method uses 86-88 Ford Mustang SVO rotors, and 79-88 Chevy Monte Carlo calipers...the fab work comes when you have to make a bracket to hold the caliper that uses the studs on the axle housing which retain the axle itself....(you'll see em when you look behind the drum.)
I saw some actual brackets on ebay...for this conversion, but they say 4wd and use different rotors and calipers also...(I Messaged the seller)
But for the above mentioned swap, I also am unsure of the compatibility of the brake lines to the new calipers...banjo stlye? Double flare?
But in my pics I decided to go along with a method used by a guy on street source.
He used '04 Camry rear rotors, and calipers...From what I read it was a direct swap, but I know this...the center hub bore on the camry rotor is 5mm smaller than the hub flange on the truck rear axle..So I have to get that machined oversize.I also have yet to source the calipers....I will buy salvage parts and rebuild if necessary. Again, unsure on the fitting compatibilty. Also I will need to fab the bracket that secures the caliper to the axle.
You will need to get a proportioing valve...obviously less braking power needed for the rear..so the advise on that is once complete, set the proportion valve to the lowest setting and adjust to your liking. There was a part of info which I verified at the local salvage yard that there is a factory prop valve on the 79-83 trucks...but...I think Id just buy new.
So all told so far I have $40 in rotors, the calipers will set me back $70, a valve about $75 and then the time spent fabbing a bracket and figuring out the line attachement....~$200!
Thanks for the info on the calipers, I will have to go look for those parts next time i'm at pickapart. As for the distributor cap I have used a similar year cap on my 93' for years. I bought LC wires and they told me to use the older style, ever since I have just gotten an older model one when I worked on my truck. I have never had issues running this set up.
I was looking at the pic of the Camry rotor, are the stud holes larger than the toyota stud?
Yes they are....enlarging the hub will ensure a good center..
Thanks for the distributor info. I think I have a solution now. I grabbed the 84-88 cap and rotor button. So I need to get the 82 cap and a rotor button for my 94, right?
I know the 79-83 cap works.....
Got a bit more painted...
Dude, do you build for anyone other than yourself?
Man that's my goal. A garage. Gas monkey style. But mainly I do cheap side jobs. My daily job is CMM programming. But to make side cash I do auto repair and modification for basically peanuts. I may make 50 or 100 bucks here and there. Makes my tools earn their keep keeps my mind sharp and working. I love math. Angles and problem solving....thanks for the compliments.
Awesome work bud. Did you consider smoothing out those parts. Some of the red looks a little ripply or it could just be the pic. Looks good either way, I'm just a stickler on paint jobs.
Actually I did. I used a flap disk to get rid of the texture and cast lines. But all the curves it was difficult to keep the flap disk flat...!
A lil further along....I ordered all chrome bolts for this thing from boltdepot.com
Yeah that close-up looks way better. Also I love it when people actually post links on where they got their difficult to find items. Another bookmark for me.
So its frame time. Im using 2x3x3/16 thick. I got to thinking about where im gonna put the air tank, and how much room its gonna take up, then I remembered how some minis I have seen and read about that used the frame as the air tank. So I used some math and did some figuring....
Using the 3/16 wall 2x3, one linear foot has 51 cubic inches of air volume..(yes I subtracted for wall thickness)
There are 231 cubic inches in a gallon. I want 5 gallons of air storage. So, 231 divided by 51 equals about 4.5 meaning for every 4.5 ft of 2x3, theres 1 gallon. To get my 5 gallons I need to use and seal airtight 22.5 ft of frame. Theres gonna be about 11 under the cab, using crossmembers too...so with the rear frame work, easily do able.
I will just have to weld in bungs and use soap/water to pressure test and make sure we are air tight...simple in theory!
So this Thursday I will begin the frame....watch out for pics!
Gonna have people at car shows like wheres the tank? This truck is going to be unique. Awesome work on the little details.
Yeah making a boxed in frame air tank is what they used to do way back in the day. One thing to note about making a tank is that your last bit of welding will be the hardest to finish up. I made a small tank for my father's jeep and I kept getting air bubbles on the last weld. I was told because of the gas build up trying to escape from the tank was making holes in my welds. I messed around with that last part for a long while before it cleaned up.
Trick to not have that happen, atleast not as bad, is when your down to about an inch left to weld let it completely cool and then purge it with either argon or argon\co2 since they expand slower then just regular air..
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