Another 78 Hilux build

Discussion in '1976-1983 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by nottoshabi, Feb 11, 2016.

  1. Smugmetal

    Smugmetal Member

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    Awesome build!

    For the drop did you use the mighty Max replacement springs or the belltech drop springs?
     
  2. Utility 77

    Utility 77 Enthusiast

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    Hey, breast build what lock system you get ? Price ?
     
  3. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    @Smugmetal might max springs.

    @Utility 77 I bought it from amazon, universal door locks. They are about $35. Super easy to install te hardest part was getting the wires throw the door.
     
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  4. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    I have made a little more progress on the interior of the truck, its a slow process but man is it fun. I was able to install the door panels and some seats I bought from junk yard. I found a second row captain seats from a Chrysler minivan in almost new condition. Then only bad part is the mounts are 4.5" tall its way to tall for the truck my head almost hits the ceiling and I'm not a tall guy.
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    Passenger side of the seat, got a small paint stain but I will take that out.
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    This is where I cut it cause its way to tall the seat it self is a bit bulky as well.
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    This is what it looks like installed not cut yet its just to tall.
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    Cut and installed(well more like placed in place). Not secured to the floor yet need to make/fabricate some sort of mounts or L brackets I can secure to the previous wholes in the floor. Also finally installed the door panels made the handles out of seat belt material just fold it and sow it. The rivets I installed previously worked great for this installation.
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    Also installed the head liner in had to get this professionally installed. Could not do this on my own needed the special glue and some one with expertise in this. Cause the first one I tried I ruined and it did not stay on there longer then a week.
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    Made the center box mock up, to get the height and have a visual representation of what it will actually look like. And get the height and width correct. I cant not mount the seats to the floor till this box is finished, dont want to mount it the seats 3 times to get the fitment correct.
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    Did more patch work on the dash, I dont know about you're guys dash was all cracked up and full of wholes. I plan on wrapping it with vinyl just cant have all the wholes in there.
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    Also wanted to add this in here cause I'm so proud of this little truck. I helped my friend rebuild an old shed so we broke down the old shed and build a new one. This is 600 lbs of crap and junk in the back that we took to the recycle yard. It was a slow drive but he pulled like a champ.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Collin Ramos

    Collin Ramos Member

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    So if I read correctly you have a 3.5 inch drop due to stock sized mighty max springs. And 5 inch drop in the rear due to modifying drop leafs on to your truck and a drop block as well. I’m guessing 2inch drop block?
     
  6. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Yes. You read correctly. I also purchased 2" shorter shocks. But if I was to do this again. I would not pick the mighty springs. They come from a different car and the spring tension is not as strong as the original truck springs. I wish there was a way to let tell us how much weight a spring can hold. Or if they would say this info on the part description. The reason is the truck is really bouncy at high speeds like an old Cadillac (a land yacht). I would just cut the original springs and purchase the shorter shocks. Not the mighty springs. Im actually thinking of replacing the mighty springs with the originals and cut them. The truck bottoms out a lot, if I drive slow over bumps its fine. When driving at 35mph and I hit a pot whole, I really feel it. There is not strength in that spring.
     
  7. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    I got some stock springs HMU if you want them
     
  8. Markus Vandevender

    Markus Vandevender Member

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  9. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Sure..
     
  10. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    I have been very busy over this quarantine by working on the truck. Also took advantage of some shops being open and slow so they took on jobs they normally wont take, like mine. Old truck and you cant really charge me a lot of money cause the car is so easy to work on. Finally installed the MSD box and got it working correctly got the wires tied up and wrapped around the fire wall.
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    The connection that were missing last time.
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    Also got an alarm to help with the break-ins and being able to use the door locks. Had to get that professionally installed they installed door pins so the light goes on the rear view mirror.
     
  11. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    I started working on the dash board area where the Heater and fan knobs used to be. [​IMG]
    As you can see I have a whole there, I used to have the heater controls there but I took them off when I got rid of the windshield wipers and heater. Im experimenting with what to put there. Right now I have added a piece of wood painted black but I might add the fabric and pattern as the door panels. So I started with this [​IMG]
    Made the wholes for the screws to be able to screw it from the back[​IMG]
    I added some L brackets so I can anchor the piece to the dashboard.[​IMG]
    Just cut the wood and sand till it fits nicely and snug. Then I added some bando[​IMG] and sand it down to a nice and smooth surface then I painted shiny black.[​IMG]
    Then I started mocking up the center console.[​IMG]
    This took more time measuring then cutting. I started big and worked my way on down till it fit.[​IMG]
    A little more mock up.[​IMG]
    Then once I got what I liked for one side I cut the other side.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  12. Collin Ramos

    Collin Ramos Member

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    Siiiiiick! Was think of doing the same, just rip out all those heater and fan knobs. And stick a single din with compartment or just stuff a double din
     
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  13. Yusuf RN20

    Yusuf RN20 Newbie

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    new to the forum, but this is the style i love
     
  14. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Big truck update, been saving all year to be able to refurbish the breaking system. Will be refurbishing the brake booster, replacing the front calipers, rotors, pads, master cylinder and clutch master cylinder because I'm in there and need to clean all that up.
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    I think this is the original one and I don't know if its ever been refurbished. Took it to a shop to get it done should be ready in a few days.

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    Had to get creative to collect the break fluid on the clutch master cylinder.

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    Will be cleaning that whole section before installing the parts back in. Will remove the ignition blaster and cleaning that whole fender and side of the engine compartment.
     
  15. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Moving on to the actual breaks.

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    Removed the caliper and rotor assembly. Sprayed penetrating fluid on the bolts to be able to remove the rotor.

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    Cleaned and repacked with grease the bearing and wheel hub.
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    Reinstalled new rotor, caliper and pads.
     
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  16. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Love the look of new rotors.
     
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  17. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    The driver side caliper came in and got a chance to finish installing that side of the truck. When I took apart the old caliper I found my wheel was shaking when I was breaking on the freeway.
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    The inner side caliper piston boot was torn. I have seen this before on a different car so I was expecting it form both calipers not just one but driver side was good.
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    This time around I bolted the wheel hub assembly back on the rim to be able to remove the rotor from the hub. Removing the rotor from the hub is the hardest part of this job if your working on the ground like me or don't have any way to anchor the hub to be able to unscrew the bolts and re-screw them back on. This wheel trick makes is a breeze.
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    Replaced and bleed the clutch master cylinder just because I was already in that area. It needed replacing any way but I highly recommend doing that if you remove the break booster. All of the break fluid was a dark green with sud at the bottom of all reservoirs.
     
  18. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Need to pass smog this year, so the carb has to go since it can not be tuned. I decided to go with the weber upgrade, also got the intake as well from LCE Engineering. As I'm waiting for parts to come in I'm installing what I have and cleaning around of parts I took off. Finished the brakes and clutch cylinders, with bleeding and all. Booster needed to be adjusted as the bolt that connects to the peddle is to long I needed to cut off 1/8th inch then crew the bracket back on.
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    Removed the intake with the carb from the engine, cleaned and scrapped all gasket remains of the engine block.
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    Will be blocking of the egr port in the back of the engine. In the mean time I installed a spark plug wire holder as they were they dangling in front of the headers. I did not like the way that looked and they were getting hot on hot days driving around.
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    Also installed a fuel regular as the weber carbs need only 3psi and these pumps pump out a whopping 6-7psi.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. RN23CB

    RN23CB Member

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    Where did you the spark plug wires holder? That looks nice
     
  20. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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