Yeah, I backed off on the valve lash before I removed the head bolts. You never know what I don't know, so keep it coming.

 

Well other than just the big mess of vacuum lines and other emission crap that seems to take longer than the head job itself . . Sometimes the cam gear can be a little ruff to get back on the cam cause your fighting the chain tensioner ... doesn't happen all the time .. mine has seem to slide on pretty good the past few times a good size screw driver threw the cam gear hole at 12 o'clock can get you some lifting leverage you can pry against the rocker arm brace directly behind the cam gear with the little arrow on it ....if you get stuck just give us a shout there many folks on here that can offer tricks and tips

 

Well, I had a very productive day today. I got almost everything back together. I found that if you pull the starter and fuel filter and bracket, you have gobs more room under there to access the bottom intake bolts, heater pipe and PAIR pipe. Why didn't someone tell me that.
All I have left for tomorrow is:
Install one heater hose.
Repair the broken wire on the oil pressure sender and hook it up.
Install the starter.
Tighten the header pipe clamp on the bellhousing.
Take the spark plugs back out.
Paint the inner fender under the battery, there's surface rust there.
Install the battery and new starter cable.
Pour in 2 gallons of water.
Spin the engine over with the starter until she builds oil pressure.
Put anti-seize on the spark plugs and re-install them.
Start and run engine until she reaches operating temperature.
Check for gas, oil and/or water leaks and repair any if found.
Drain water from radiator and block.
Refill with a 50/50 mix of ethelene-glycol anti freeze.
Go the insurance office, get insurance.
Go the DMV, get and install license plate.
Drive around with a smile on my face 'cause I got me a running Yota.

Did I miss anything????

Oh yeah, the guy I bought my Yota from had a 5 MPH front end crash 5 years ago. Only damage was the front bumper and right front fender slightly. He straightened the fender somewhat and bought a new bumper. The old bumper was black (not chrome) so he bought a new black bumper and installed it. The new bumper was not painted, it was only primer. Now 5 years later, all the primer has gone away and I have a nasty looking surface rusted front bumper.
I already have the bumper off. This weekend it'll get a nice coat of new primer and gloss black paint.
Wish me luck on tomorrow's endeavor.

 

Dupli color has a nice bumper paint part stores should carry it .it may be available in gloss ...I used the satin and very durable it holds up well to rock chips or road blast .. Also holds armor - all for a real nice shine

 

Thanks.
I stopped by O'Rielly's on the way home tonight and picked up my heater hose, anti-freeze, Dupli-color satin black (or semi-gloss, I forget which) to paint the inner fender under the battery, and battery/starter cable.
I will use an HVLP paint gun to apply the primer and gloss black paint to the bumper.

 

i saw this thread when you first posted and meant to post a write up i did on a head gasket but kept getting distracted...

http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-39/quickie-head-gasket-ver-1-0-a-1907/


now im going to go read the 3 pages and edit this post




Edit:

the only issue i have is related to your first post...

you said water was in the oil aka milkshake. at a minimum you need to change your oil with very lil run time in it when your done. or if you have the time and would rather not take the chance, pop the oil pan off and just dissasemble and clean the rod bearings and reassemble with assembly lube or bearing grease just to make sure there was no surface rust from sitting in contaminated oil. imho if it sat for more then a week with contaminated oil you should tear down the bottom end.

ive seen alot of PO's drive with a BHG till it almost wont run or let it sit with one then sell, seems a easy fix but the rods die in the next couple months...


now the whole zip tie cam gear thing...

in my write up i say

this is to keep the torque side of the chain tight with no slack, and the chain itself seated correctly on the crank. it is a PITA to move the links on the crank gear with a timing cover on.

however...
i didnt use a zip tie, but i think thats a killer idea if you roll the cam gear then put a zip tie somewhere between 7-8:00 on the cam gear.



in your recent "to do" list you mention just turning the starter to build oil pressure then starting it. i wouldnt.

it takes about 20 seconds of cranking to build any oil pressure and about 40 to get up to "low but normal". these motors build pressure faster if you just start em.

if it was me id fill it with oil without the valve cover on and douse the cam/rockers with every quart. install the VC and turn the key on then open the AFM flap with your finger till it builds fuel pressure, then just start it.



you say your a retired mechanic so ill assume you lubed the cam lobes well after it went to the machine shop including taking the cam bearing caps off and getting those surfaces too.


best of luck, hope it runs forever for ya

 

Finished her up today. Woo Hoo, no leaks!
Put about 50 miles on her today with no problems.
Now, gotta get that front bumper painted and installed.

 

Good deal glad it went smooth for ya