if you do middle leaf and 4" blocks you'll be hitting the frame. on average, middle leaf removal on most of my drops are worth around 3-3.5" of drop.
you change the position of the rear keys on the torsion bars. ive yet to make a write up on this but i will soon. its a bit complicated to explain...
gotcha.
bagging is not cheap. simple as that. average bags run about $70 and up... there is allot involved in bagging a truck since you are redesigning...
to be honest, a notch is going to be your biggest limiting factor. unless you get one, 4-5 inches of drop is about your limit. ive done lots of...
lol... no worries man, the process stil takes less than an hour or so to flip em.
fosho brother!
looks good man... did you do the bj flip while you were down there?
from what i can see, its pretty close to the dimensions of a toxic shoc wich have proven pretty nice options to a dropped application. the toxic...
oh yea... no no on tightening the lca bolt while up in the air.... its gotta be on the ground. another fyi tip for lower ride height gain, loosen...
lit is right on the torsion adjustment... from my experience, the drivers side torsion is usually weaker than the pass side. either way, adjust...
fosho man... just txt you right now. tag me back. 619-646-8019
you can run a ball joint spacer i believe and this can lift your truck. i think you can find them on ebay for fairly cheap.
nice build man... that was one hell of a turnaround. truck looks great.
nice truck bruh! keep it up! keep us posted on the progress...
man, you aint kidding... i was looking around for a while for these around here. they are nearly impossible to find and in good shape as well....
wow! she is a damn hottie!
i do have one in grey left.. and a blue.
my bad, yes.. the races do come with some of the bearings but ive found that the original races hold up really well unless something detrimental...
get inner and outter bearings, and your wheel seal. you will need a tub of good bearing grease. you will start off by taking the wheel off, once...
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