Im at the final 5% before the first startup and I am unsure of how the 2 OE carb connector wires connect back to the spade connector to the electric choke on the Weber.

Can I just put both of the wires into the spade connector and crimp down? Or do I need some other connector? I’m clueless when it comes to electrical things, so if you know I would appreciate the help. Thanks guys

 

You only need 1 wire. With the ignition in the “on” position test each wire for 12V. Use whichever wire works.

 

Thanks for a quick reply Fred. Could I just run both to the connector and call it a day? Or would I need to test for voltage and ONLY run ONE? I only ask because the battery is still out and I have a multimeter, but I have almost no idea how it works.

 

Just leave those til you have the battery in then test OR find a wire diagram for your year and model and go from there.

if youre unsure how to use the DMM just do a quick google search.

 

It needs a solid 12 to open all the way. Just do not tap off the coil.

 

I'll mess around with the multimeter tomorrow and get the battery reconnected. Thanks jetas

 

Will do. I'll figure the wiring out tomorrow and see which wire I need and which I do not.

 

You only need a 12V ignition feed for the electric choke. You only want 12V when the ignition is “on”. If you don’t have a multimeter a 12V test light will work. I’m not sure where the second wire goes. I guess you could try it together but I suspect you only need the one wire. One of those two wires should test ignition hot. It’s been awhile since I installed my Weber.
Update: I checked under the hood. I have a green plastic connector (old smog?) I tapped into the black wire with yellow stripe for my 12V feed. The other wire is not used. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Fred. Ill give it a shot with just the black striped wire first since this time I’m lucky enough to have the same wire color as somebody else haha. If it doesn’t work for whatever reason, then I’ll go ahead and try the other one. Cold starts we’re always good on the truck before the rebuild and on the stock carb, so I see no problem why the choke electrical connector shouldn’t work now.

 

I would be hesitant to use both wires. If one is ground you’ll just blow the fuse. I had water choke on mine before the Weber conversion. If you have a multimeter just set the dial to DC volts (20). Touch the black probe to any ground and the red to each wire you want to check. This will identify the hot wire.

 

Really all an electric choke is a heating element. Power and ground. A ground wire is usually supplied incase its poorly grounded.

 

A multimeter is a better idea rather than tapping stuff together and hope it works

 

I used the white/yellowish wire and left the black wire unattached. But I will go ahead and try a multimeter on it tomorrow when the battery is back in, I just did that to mock it up.

 

yeah I’ll whip out the multimeter tomorrow so that I’m not chasing problems if something doesn’t go right

 

Quick update: I used the multimeter like you guys said and I switched the 2 around and now have the correct wiring for the choke after seeing which one has continuity. I just have the unused one hanging next to the other one which I plan on cleaning up at some point.

 

Right on! BTW that valve cover color looks dope

 

Thanks man! I just got the truck started today, it runs beautifully and idles like it never had before. As well as the oil pressure gauge reading MUCH higher than it did 7 months ago. Just want to thank you and everyone else on here that has helped me get to this point in the project.