I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup 2wd....and was wondering if anybody had any ideas for what wheels I should get???
I had a set of 17x7.5 rims with a 40mm offset that required a 1.5-2" spacer to fit right I fell in love with the 03/04 mustang cobra svt rim and found a set of reproduction ones on ebay trouble was a 9" wide rim was too wide for front clearance but AFS wheels has a custom made 8" wide rim and the offset is only 12mm... so best part is no spacers and they bolt right on a 9" will fit in the back 26mm offset but may rub against the emer brake cable... I was able to mess with the cables frame mount and I got enough clearance check them out http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AFS-...013QQitemZ230137142230QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW they are on my truck now 17x8 front w/ 245-45 tires 17x9 rear w/ 275-40 tires I would go with a skinnier front tire though as with them that wide the bump steer is pretty bad go with a 225 or 235 front
Yes the 7.5" 40mm offset with 4.5" backspacing puts the tire in pretty far. But that's what the baggin' and draggin' folk dig. It gives you plenty of clearance to the fenders, especially if you run the 4x4 fenders like I do and plan to lay frame. I opted for the 1.5" spacers on my fronts, with the 18" x 7.5" and a 43mm offset and the center caps on my wheels (tuners ) didn't even fit over the bearing grease cap! I had to use a wheel adapter. Besides, the 1.5" adapter brought the front wheel out to match the rears which are the 18x9.5" running a 265/35-18. I agree though, a 225 is plenty wide enough for the fronts. If you get any "bump" steer (not like the 4wd bump steer) you can upgrade the factory steering stabilizer. Just pull it and take it to the parts store and match it to a larger 4wd model. It'll bolt right in (even if the guy at the counter says it won't (what do they know anyway-"well the computer says....")). Just make sure the retracted and extended lengths are the same and that the mounts are the same....
When I first got my 17x7 40mm offsets I was running 205/40 tires which tucked real nice but they knocked off my front grease fittings and rode like riding on rocks I went to 225/55 tires and spaced them with 1.5 inch spacers which cured the grease fitting problem and the ride was much better Both tires had bump steer issues which I cured with an upgraded steering stabilizer When I went to 245/45 tires the bump steer was really bad again and when I checked my stabilizer it was shot (leaking) so new one and all good right? Wrong still bump steer, not as bad but still there. I had a dual stabilizer kit off a 84 4wd parts truck so I modified those mounts and put a dual stabilizer on Almost no bump steer but still there My advice is stay away from a wide front tire 235 max I would say 225 better...
I can't remember how wide my wheel is or any other specs but I'm running 17" panther juice 5 spokes with a 235/45 w rated tire. It doesn't rub at all. The problem I've had with such a wide tire is that the truck follows the grooves in the road and without powersteering if the road is bad you have to fight it pretty hard it helped to drop the tire pressure down to 30psi though but then I lost the excellent handling.
sorry to here you have the same trouble 93yoter... glad I am not the only one though... Those ruts in the right lane from semi's pull me all over the lane! SUCKS! and thats even after converting to power steering
yep when the ruts move around it looks like I'm a drunk lol especially after putting on a smaller steering wheel lol. The truck is work to drive but for some reason I love it to death. I would convert to power steer but I honestly like the road feel with no power steering I can tell exactly what the truck is doing.
Im having the same issues right now with "Bump steer" Im running the Supra TT rims and used spacers to help clear the grease fitting and the tire from rubbing. So going with a better stabilzer would help? 235 45 17 front 255 40 17 rear I was thinking of going down to a 205 50 17 for the front but on 8 wide rim would that give it the stretched look?
Yes, it would be quite a stretch. And likely would not help the tramline problem at all. A better steering stabilizer will help, but the best way to clean it up is to put the stock wheels and tires back on. And we all know that won't happen......
If thats the case I rather sell this and get a bus pass. Hey with the larger brake setup you are running. Did it add any additional (or take away) offset to your front suspension? Has anyone that completed this mod take final measurements of the track(width).
the offset is changed by the thickness of the rotor hat so it will push out your wheels about a 1/4 inch As for the tires effecting or not effecting your tramlining... I have to disagree with Litneon at least in part although the stabilizer has helped my tramlining issues the width of my tires increasing has effected it negatively to a much larger degree
Two different widths on the tire on the same wheel/offset? And are the tires the same brand and design? According to the page referenced (Tire Rack I believe) by the other tramlining thread, a different tire design has much to do with the effects. And I know that this is true. The difference between my 35/13.50 Super Swamper Boggers and my 35/12.50 Pro Comp Xterrains is insane in that aspect. The Boggers will have you all over the road just running over the double yellow line (Paint!) on a two lane road, and the Xterrains were stable even changing lanes on a highway with one lane repaved and an inch taller than the other (that still needed a layer of asphalt.). I know that there is an inch difference in the width, but I believe that the difference in handling is not the width but the tread design. The Xterrains have much more lateral traction and stability than the Boggers, which are designed to provide mostly forward traction. And yes the brake mod adds 1/2" overall to the front track width.
Yes the tread design is a factor! I agree. But just that one inch in actual tread width made a major negative impact on my tramlining! My 225/55/17's did not tram anywhere near as much as my 245/45/17's and they had basically the same tread design. When I was running snow tires on 15 inch rims 215/65/15's I had NO tramlining issues.... Which brings me to another point... Sidewall height.... The lesser the sidewall also increases tramlining issues... so say a 225/55/17 tire would tramline a lot more than a 225/65/15 tire which has the same diameter and width, just due to the 1 inch more sidewall. I remember when I got my truck I got a free set of 17 inch rims with 205/40's on em. I had manual steering then and a stock stablizer... the smallest ruts would pull me all over the road so bad I couldn't barely hold onto the wheel my arms would get sore if I drove too many miles down the highway in the "truck" lane with all the frigin ruts! I believe the wider the tire and the lower the profile... is the main reason we tramline not to say power steering a good stabilizer and tread design don't effect the overall tramlining issue... but the width and sidewall height are IMHO the biggest factors...
So if short sidewalls are one of the major contributers why did my 35 boggers pull so bad, I mean the 10 inches of sidewall should have taken care of that..... And, now that I have my 18's 225/40/18's front and 265/35/18's rear, I really don't notice it at all. I'm not just being argumentative, it's really true. I still say that tramlining is caused by a couple issues: tread design, and wheel backspacing/offset. (and mostly the latter.) If you move the tire out (reverse offset) you are moving your pivot point towards the inside of the wheel, which gives more leverage to the force that is applied to the outside of the wheel/tire. If you go with a wider tire and wheel package with the same backspacing (not offset), the extra width has to move out, providing the extra leverage. And sometimes we have to make this compromise to allow the addition of more meat. For example: I just measured my stock steel wheels. They are 15x6" (might actually be narrower) with a 4.5" backspacing. That give the wheel an offset of +38mm give or take. Mind you most of the wheel tire is inside the pivot point of the steering. Now, if you put a wheel that is 7.5 inches wide with a zero offset, the mounting flange would be at the centerline of the wheel and with 3.75" of backspacing would push the wheel out .75", adding leverage and consequently, bump steer.
i do believe its due mainly cuz of the spacers i am running they are an 1in thick. And also the fact that im runnign different brands of tires from front to rear. Ill see if i can score some not so wide tires fro the fronts im looking at a set of 215 50 17 for my current wheels. So If I where to get new rims what is the correct offset. Im looking for a staggered setup. Either 18x8 (or7.5) and 18x9.5 in the rear I want a big lipin the back
The stock wheels have a +38 or +42mm offset. This will put the wheels pretty far back in the wheel well, especially if you've done the 4wd fender conversion. Besides being tucked pretty far back, you'll notice that the wheels' center caps wouldn't fit over the grease cap on the hub. A set of spacer fixed that, I chose a rather large 1.5" set of spacers, which then allow the wheel to fill the fenders rather nicely and match the rears. My wheels are 18x7.5" fronts and 18x9.5" rears with a +42mm offset. the offset is the same for both front and rear even if the set is staggered. And just so you know, 9.5" wide is really all the wider you can go unless you narrow the frame rails. I like 'em staggered......
Ur truck looks bad@$$!!!! So could you have gone with more of a negative offset on the fronts so you dont have to run spacers? Btw what suspension are you running?
Yes, definitely. But, then you are stuck with that setup. If you decide to bag later, they won't clear the fenders. Also, IF you try and sell them, you or the buyer may run into issues. Spacers/wheel adapters are only $70 or so on ebay. Right now I have a set of 2" drop spindles and Sway-a-way torsion bars in the front, 3" lowered spring packs in the rear and Energy Suspension bushings all around. Oh, and Pro Comps brand of lowered shocks-can't remember the name of them.... Toxic Shocks. I knew if I typed in the last line that it would come to me. Rides great, handles like a car.
Litneon, how is your turning radius? and did you do the spindles and the torsions at the same time? I have spindles sitting in a box and I thought about putting in the sway-away bars at the same time but I have yet to see them or ride in a lowered truck with them.