Working on the radiator exchange right now, would like to take a closer look at my fan/fan clutch assembly and my condenser soon too. Gonna have to make a toolrun for a 19mm in a 1/2" drive since i only have 3/8" drive sockets. Very straight forward procedure, will write it up soon!

 

Okay, finally got the radiator out which was straight forward, yet another learning experience and a personal first for replacing a radiator. Thankfully, I had a good friend from college stop by since he wanted to show off his new car and he lended a proper 19mm to loosen the engine drain bolt; a worthy note - the engine drain cock is actually a drain bolt inside of a threaded sleeve (said sleeve is a 19mm while the drain bolt itself is smaller, can't recall the size) that threads into the engine block... hopefully it won't be leaking but we'll see once this is all said and done.

As for the coolant, i think she was proper due since THIS is what came out of the engine drain bolt... a nice mixture of the wrong coolant + some sludge? + brass particles (hopefully not the water pump but if it is that I'll just do it too anywho; my water pump has some slight movement in the bearing/s so does this mean it's due? someone enlighten me!)


And as for the main reason for all this, she did take quite a gnarly hit. I believe my fan is warped so I will be replacing that and straightening out the shroud a bit better. Thankfully the water pump pulley seems straight still buuut I have to do the belt since that slipped off gonna have to figure that out quick since I do not have a "Borough's Gauge" per the FSM nor have I done a serpentine belt let alone older-styled V-Belts.

And here's the front of the radiator. I am planning on inspecting the condenser and it's appropriate piping to and fro since I'm fairly certain they might be breached/warped pretty good, still no A/C and if I did i don't think it would work anymore...

Note the pinhole leaks on the right side, very top and very bottom those are the whole reason I'm doing this since that's already a sign of trouble. Thank you brave Made In Thailand radiator for your service and courage to still drag my sorry butt home that fateful night and beyond! o7

As for the instructions, they're fairly simple:
1. Remove the radiator cap and unscrew the drain plug on the radiator (if equipped) or undo the lower radiator hose. If you want to be thorough, there is a drain bolt on the driver's side of the engine block HERE you can undo (Use penetrating oil, these can be tough to free up)
1a. Undo the coolant overflow hose.

2. Unbolt the four 10mm bolts on the fan and fan clutch assembly that affixes to the pulley here, i'd recommend a wrench here, sockets will not work here at all NOTE: If you cannot reach one or more bolts on it, bumping the engine over by the key a brief touch to rotate it enough. Don't leave it in gear if you do this however!

3. Remove the fan shroud. There are four 10mm bolts with two on each side. Undo these after the fan and fan clutch otherwise they will get in the way.

4. Remove the upper and lower hoses. Straight forward; mine are still in good condition so I will be reusing them. There is a hose that tees off of the lower and the hose clamp on it is kinda finnicky so just be mindful.

5. Now you may remove the radiator. There are four 12mm bolts in a similar pattern to that of the fan shroud. I *might* take it to a rad shop and my condenser too to see what they can do, maybe it is saveable but i am no radiator/condenser guy so we'll see...

As for reassembly, reverse order. For bleeding however, fill it up and leave the radiator cap off and let it idle for ~10-30 minutes to let the system self bleed itself, and then wa la!!! I will be using distilled water, obvious enough of itself for a well-needed flush and fill.


I will be adding images for the steps later, need a shower and i can't figure out how drafts work here...

 

Nice work, great way to get to know your truck. Keep on wrenching!!

 

Yeppers, getting some distilled water & coolant today. I wonder what magical substances might emerge from the depths of the engine block if the drain plug looked sketch...

 

Got a second opinion from my neighbor and some research online, *any* play in the water pump is bad so I Will be researching a proper water pump kit; also we examined my drive belts and they were quite worn out, my W/P and Alternator belt was missing teeth!! and my A/C belt didn't look too happy too... I'll find some belts for that too to do whilst the radiator is out.

As for the flush, I will briefly use the hose to blast any junk out and then flush it with distilled water for some reassurance.

 

Okay, got the old, original water pump out and got the new one in with some hiccups here and there, mostly just me going back and forth from ACE hardware for nuts and washers and dealing with bolts and (somewhat ) stripping a bolt!

Bolts bolts bolts, and nuts and AAAA!!!! after this i need a break from nuts and bolts... but here are the reasons why I replaced some bolts

1. The waterpump-timing chain cover bolt (this one long bolts does indeed go into the timing cover thru the waterpump so be mindful!) on my truck was quite... unhappy looking. Not to mention THE CRUD packed into that hole of which I did my best to clean out...

2. This water pump housing bolt which was a good crank with a ratchet from snapping off and making this job even loonger...



Doing the waterpump was quite easy, just some nuances with what equipment YOUR truck has on it. A video I followed, the guy's truck had power steering, no A/C. Mine however has A/C without power steering or a smog pump. Thankfully the belts here, regardless of equipment are all the same torque specs (still looking for the proper service tool since I haven't done V-Belts and just want the proper tension! Update: Ordered a similar, but not exact gauge) regardless according to the factory service manual.

If you're curious on doing the belt on a truck with A/C, here are the steps:

1. From looking into the front of the engine bay, below the A/C compressor there is an idler pulley between it and the crankshaft pulley. This is how you adjust tension on the A/C belt and your W/P + Alternator belt / P/S if equipped

2. Undo the idler pulley nut on the front first. Will double check and add photos tomorrow but I believe this is a 9/16s (The front bolt is a 9/16 and the adjusting bolt on the back is a 13mm). Note: there is a washer in the front, and a rubber isolator in the back of the pulley, watch out for dropping these!

3. On said idler pulley, at the 7:30-ish o clock position, there is a long adjusting bolt on the back (a 12mm shallow socket will be useful here) which you will have to loosen to draw the pulley towards the engine block to loosen the belt, or vice versa to tighten it. I used the smallest drive ratchet here since it's quite cramped for any larger drives.

4. Loosen and remove the pulley to free up ye ole A/C belt to replace it with a new one.

5. Follow the reverse of installation to put the belt back on proper. Update: I have ordered a gauge to measure the tension so I will include the specs here too.

The video I followed included doing a belt measurement via deflection for proper tightness, as well as the water pump and a bunch of other good information too, the link is >>> HERE <<< if you're doing this too.


The waterpump can be done without removing the radiator or hoses of coarse, I'm just bundling it in since the radiator is already out of course!

Will add photos tomorrow, I somehow misplaced my phone-to-computer transfer cable
(Update: found it in my tech basket)
Wow, this 2MB file size limit is quite hindering as my phone usually takes >4MB pictures, have to use my old camera for this...

 

Found it!!! Was in my tech basket for some odd reason

Still having some second thoughts about my A/C Adjustment pulley since it appears the bearings aren't freespinning and it might've been chewing up where it mounts onto the adjustment bracket... unsure about that since i *might* be missing another part of the pulley too unsure, I'll have to double cheque that...



Adding photos and editing such now

 

I have a lead on the only belt-tensioning tool for V-Belts anywhere, right at my college workshop!!! Asked my neighbor who deals with Snap-On and he unfortunately couldn't find anything for a week about, i will finally piece this project back together (after replacing the A/C Idler Pulley & Fan Clutch) and do my final tensioning adjustments there.

 

Been waiting for my parts to get here, quite a hefty order. Might anyone know if there IS a difference between a fan clutch for an automatic or a manual? Most sights show clutches for automatics, some show for either manual or automatic...

 

Yep there is, FCT-001 is for the manual transmission (Part number from AISIN themselves) and FCT-003 is for the autos! Just incase anyone else was wondering