im wanting to lower my 77 lux to just above the tires and im trying to find out the best way to do so but i dont want to go with blocks in the rear any suggestions would be great
Why not go with blocks in the rear? I am just curious. Bolcks are a pretty good way to lower the rear in my opinion. They will maintain the stock ride but drop it as thick as the blocks you go with. Add some stiffer shocks and you would be set. Seems like 2 inch blocks would do the trick since you just want to go to the top of the tires.
search... i assume this is the look your looking for well, maybe a lil more assembled then that, but you get the idea
:fap fap fap fap fap fap fap: oops, sorry Yeah, i agree, i was told something with axle wrap, but i dont think i have enough power to create it.
hint: in suspension section there is a lil write up for the front in the rear i used 3in blocks. now my rear end has died. im not sure if its cuz i wasnt using angled blocks, or if it was the F'd up centering pin on one side. my axl shifts about 1in on one side. some serious vibration now at freeway speeds, but i had the same vibration before i dropped it, just got worse about 10k mi later. so ya not sure what really caused it to get worse but it is. im swapping out the springs and rear end anyway so we'll find out if this rear end dies from unangled blocks.
i have had issues with blocks in the past on an s-10 i had but that is pretty much the look im going for shonuff
most people i talked to with problems didnt tighten em down enuff, i take the nuts that come with the kit and tighten them till the U-bolts conform to the axl housing, then i run a nylon lock nut up after em really tight, havent had issues cept the F'd center pin hole i talked about earlier. ive got blocks in the wagon too, and since i put in the supercharger, ive given it more then ample chance for axl wrap or other bad issues. nothing yet and its only a 6.5in diff.
Sho, did you retain the factory centering blocks? I put my factory centering blocks on top of the drop blocks. you can see where i placed them
i have no idea what those are i removed a leaf (had 2 overloads) and had to put in a new centering pin. took a grade 8 bolt and rounded the head a bit. but ive heard nothing but bad things about stacking blocks. i dont know if those are doing much cept lowering the rear a bit more. 20yrs before your truck they didnt have fancy stuff like that, this is stock, minus one leaf and added 3in blocks
Shonuff, what was wrong with your old centering pins? Some people try to put that "this thing" on the bottom of the drop blocks. the Centering Block's pin doesnt fit in the bottom of the drop block, so you place it on top. The drop block 's pin fits on the bottom of the centering block's. The centering block also keeps things aligned a bit.... this is confusing. ITS LIKE LEGO's.
on one side it wasnt quite tight enuff, for who knows how long. so it wore a larger hole in the leaf pack. then when i removed one of the overloads i needed to tighten the pin down but the threads had been worn away or were too rusty to tighten. so i replaced them with new ones. at the time i didnt think the bigger hole was a issue. until i found that my axl would only stay centered for about 2 min. i got the new springs n axl ready to go in, just destroyed the bushings removing it from the parts truck. so i gotta wait for cash.
I think they should work out all right. Get out the torque wrench and spend some time getting it right. They are a little tricky to get even as when you tighten down one nut it adjusts the torque on the other side of the u bolt a bit too, but just torque them to the upper part of the specified range. I believe it is 60-80 pounds which is a surprisingly big range. I would try to get them all fairly even around 80 and you shouldn't have any problems with them.
even isnt so important. =/- 1 cm is ok and just tighten the **** out of em, i would go 80 plus. tighter the better, if you strip the nut, thats what the 2nd nut i used is for.