doing the timing chain, and getting the gasket for the timing chain cover. one comes with a sleeve n seal the other does not. what is this sleeve n seal? and do i need it?
Good luck man. Im doing mines now as well. Can check out my thread couple down if anything. Been posting up pics and asking for advice along the way. Sorry dunno about the gasket. good luck with it thouh.
i think its for the crank shaft in in case yours may be worn down some the sleve seals it at the front main seal.. just my guess i dont remember
Right on the money there. Thin metal sleeve you slip over the front and/or rear of the crank shaft when your seal has worn a groove into the surface of the crank.
i dont think my engine has ever been touched other than normal maintenance do you guys think i will be fine? also what rtv should i be getting? i cant get ahold of any of the toyota fipg stuff.
I picked up the gray. The guy told me they were all the same. The old silicone on my truck is the orangish one.
The sleeve is for the crank pulley not the crank itself... I've tried them before... They work if you can get the sleeve on correctly, otherwise it'll wobble and leak worse than without it...
so let me get this correctly, if im not dropping the pan i just need to undo the 2 pan bolts, will this mess up the gasket or whatever sealant is on the pan?
No it wont mess up the gasket. From pulling off my pan you can undo all the bolts but the gasket/silicone will still be holding it in. Once you break that seal you will have to change it. What im trying to figure out is if you need to drop the oil pan at all, and if so why? Do we need to access something from the bottom?
Im working my way through mines now, and when i got my gaskets, the guy gave me a whole set. Apparently they have them boxed where theres all the gaskets. Water pump, timing chain cover and another 1 or 2 inside the set.
I'd recommend dropping the pan while your down there... You'll get to clean the oil pickup tube (sometimes its crudded with sludge, giving you poor oil supply) and you can also get all the broken bits of plastic guide out if any... ***Bonus is a better oil pan seal when re-installing aswell... < I don't use gaskets here btw... Straight up RTV like it came out of the factory... Now, to drop the pan without lifting the motor or pulling it out completely you'll need to do the following.... 1.) Remove the cross member. 2.) Remove steering stabilizer from chassis only, leave it bolted to the center link. 3.) Unbolt the idler arm from the frame on the passenger side. This will drop the steering stuff enough for you to finish the job. ***Note: Mark where the idler arm is located before you unbolt it and return it to the same position as to not possibly mess with the steering geometry/alignment.... 4.) Sway bar if needed... I had to do so on my 82, didn't need to on my 90... Go figure.... I think that's it... Oh wait, if your up to the challenge you might aswell change your rod bearings while your down there too....
Thank you BYE. Will come in handy tomorrow and hopefully ill be able to pull the timing chain cover off.
all RTV is NOT the same grey, black, and ultra black are good for oil pans and engine oil applications and work much better than blue or u-blue. grey tends to be more 'sticky' once cured and is a huge pain to clean off again, u-black will peel off and need only a little touch up to get clean. blue tends to not seal nearly as well. orange/copper is "high heat" and is good for exhaust after the cat but won't take the heat before the cat. it'll seal oil but not nearly as well as black/grey. I use ultra-black on anything in the engine bay (obviously). I used a tube of grey (as to not waste it) but wish i had used ultra black when i took stuff apart. ultra blue also has a crapload of fumes, so if you're into that kind of thing, there ya go.
