Reliability 20R vs 22R?

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by 81SR5Al, Jul 2, 2010.

  1. 81SR5Al

    81SR5Al Addict

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    OK we've all heard the reputation of the 22R, that it's bulletproof, goes forever, etc, etc.... so because of two factors: 1. Not a lot of interest in the truck to buy it 2. for some reason the DOL hasn't sent me my title yet, been 3 weeks! I'm probably gonna be keeping the truck for a while! I'm not sure about my 20R, but if I do find that it's not easily fixed (like needs a rebuild) I'm wondering if I should just rebuild or replace the 20R with another 20R, or just go for a 22R. I'm not trying to make 1000hp or anything, just want something that is reliable. I need to commute with it daily, 36 miles each way.... so I want to bolt it together, break it in, and drive the s**t out of it and not worry about it (as an example, I have 166k miles on my silverado and the only things that have been replaced are the water pump and the alternator). I know it's possible because I had an '88 that was 100% stock as my work truck for 3 years, started driving it at 50k and at 325k it had only had an alternator replaced and got 35mpg.

    Since the 20R is only a smaller bore version of the 22R, there should be no real difference, right? I'm of course talking either a early or late 22R, since an '88 is a later block.

    Opinions?
     
  2. B.Y.E.

    B.Y.E. Toyotaholic

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    One word: "HYBRID" nuff said... :waytogo:
     
  3. Raffaelli

    Raffaelli Toyotaholic

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    If I was to piece together an engine.....


    Def get a 82-84 22R bottem end. The dome pistons and .2L of displacement WILL work well even on your rock stock 20R head/induction.

    Stock parts all the way.
    If you get a later block, none of your 20R intakes/ heads/exhaust(?) will work on your new post 85 motor. Just more parts to buy...

    Reliability wise, its just as tough as any other R series.

    BTW. Whats wrong with your truck? Engine toast? Knocking?
     
  4. 81SR5Al

    81SR5Al Addict

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    I dunno, could be the carb, could be the head, could be a lot of things. It takes a ton of noise and runs like CRAP. I am trying to find a Weber on CL locally. If the Weber doesn't cure the issue, I dunno then. I have had enough other issues and just don't have the time to be going thru everything, would rather get a rebuild and slap my stuff on it and not worry about it.

    Basically I've had to replace almost everything else... I'd rather not have to tear down the engine AGAIN just to find more problems. If I'm keeping this thing I gotta start driving it.
     
  5. Racersk

    Racersk Member

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    What kind of noise? Bottom end? timing chain? Valve train?

    These motors are notoriously noisy in the valve train, checking and maintaining clearances is a regular tuning item. The bottom end is a different story, whatis your oil pressure?

    The timing chains get noisy, and when they do, this normally ends in chain through cover ugliness, how many miles on your engine?

    Getting a pre 86 motor is getting harder, but nowhere near impossible, check the PAP's and otehr u-pull-it yards, let the other guys pu;; the hard stuff, and swing in for the block and rotating assy. When rebuilding BALANCE your motor! These are old engines and bigger in displacement than most 4cylinders, I have vibration issues that could have been avoided had I balanced everything...

    The other must buy is a main pulley, or damper, these wear out and are a bitch to seal and or repair, just buy a new one and be done with it...
     
  6. Raffaelli

    Raffaelli Toyotaholic

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    Al did you ever do a compression test? That would help alot in trying to figure out your problem.
     
  7. 81SR5Al

    81SR5Al Addict

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    Compression was fine. I'm betting it's the carb. When I have time I'll figure it out... things are a bit hectic now and will be for at least the next 2 months. I still have to finish the lower control arm bushings!!! :rolleyes:
     

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