I've got spark. Compression is 1- 95 psi 2- 80 psi 3- 95 psi 4- 80 psi It sounds like it wants to start but wont. Not even with starting fluid. I think I might need new rings. Valves were all good and sealed. Verified with fuel in the combustion chamber when head was off. No leaks.
Your igniter is a very delicate piece of equipment. It basically controls your entire start and run process. Just because you got spark now, doesn’t mean your igniter is working correctly. I’ve never heard of someone making a repair to this equipment. Something caused that melting. Chances are they’re more problems there.
That makes sense. Do the compression numbers look too low? From what I've read, they should be over 100 psi.
Jetas, Battery is at 12.6, but i have the charger hooked up because i had been cranking it over a fair bit.
I know you mentioned funky wiring. Maybe some sort of short is happening. Seems weird to have a trace on the board burn out.
I'll have to look into that. Seeing as everything else is ass backwards or not done right. Our wouldn't hurt to check the wiring. Side note: if all ther emissions stuff has been removed, do need the little emissions box?
It's getting fuel, spark, and air. I'm stumped. It doesn't sound right as I'm cranking it over. It sounds like it's puffing out of the exhaust manifold. It sounds to me like timing might be off, but I've checked and double checked timing. The mark on the crank is at 0, and the dot on the cam is straight up.
I always understood that the base timing is set at 8 before on 20r's. And at top dead center the dowel pin should be straight up with the dot alittle off. I could be wrong on that one though. If your dizzy is the clip kind when you set the motor and install the dizzy again aim it at the clip. It will turn back to number 1 when in.
Are you saying you had the head off and now it won't run? most likely the timing is out, You may have the cam timing out, or the distributor timing out, or both. recheck the cam timing you will have to find the marks. To check the distributor timing is a bit of a process. Pull out number one spark plug, put your finger over the hole (you may need help with this) turn the engine over with a spanner and watch the timing mark. when you feel the compression pushing on your finger keep rotating until you get to TDC. Now pull off the distributor cap and make sure the rotor its pointing to the number one lead. if that is correct check the leads are on the right plugs, 1342 is the firing order. Next put the spark plug on the end of the number one lead turn the ignition on and rotate the engine with a spanner and watch the timing mark. it should fire around 10 degrees before TDC. As a safety precaution, you may want to take the other leads off the spark plugs before you do that last step, sometimes the engine may kick back with your hand on the spanner if one of the other spark plugs fire. let me know how it goes
So the dot is ment to be between the brite links on the chain. The dowel pin should be on top for correct cam timing.
@Liquidhandwash , the truck was non running when I got it. The previous owner that had it as a project didn't know his ass from a hole in the ground when it can to cars.But he tried to drop in a 22r from an 83 pickup. @Pearce I will try and set it at 8 or 10 degrees and go from there.
You should either have an 8 on the oil pump or 2 Mark's on your balancer. One being tdc and the other being 8 that you line up on the oil pump mark.
Yea cam dowel should be a little to the left of 12o'clock. You may actually need to set the timing more advanced than the 10°. Mine liked 12° and now with the MSD box its more advanced
@Pearce , it's got an 8 on the pump and one timing mark in the pulley. @jetas , I'll have to try setting it up like that tomorrow.
You got it easy then. I've had my marks mixed up and timed it at tdc. I think it's running that way right now. Lmao
So I pulled the harness to check it. Everything looks good, and tested good as well. Dizzy tested good, coil from 22r tested good as well. Not sure what is going on. I really want this damn thing to run. lol Since I have the harness out of the truck, would it still run if I strip out the wiring for the emissions control stuff?
You need very few wires to to actually start and run the truck. Everything else is extra. Strip em try advancing/retarding the ignition Timing a before and after factory spec,