Guys, i really need some help. I have a Toyota pickup that i inherited and it has a lot of issue, so much so that it's getting overwhelming. I have spent a week researching and trying to get some of them resolved and the more I dig the more issues I find. I'll list the issues below, if anyone can help thanks in advance.

Issue 1: The truck is running really rich, rough idle, black smoke. I have done plugs, wires, seafoam, more plugs, adjusted carb over and over, removed the choke plate temporarily to troubleshoot, replaced old vacuum lines and checked vacuum routing, set the timing as best as I could. No luck!

Issue 2: No vacuum at distributor vacuum advance. This makes it difficult to know if im setting the timing correctly.

Issue 3: Charge and Brake light are on. I am seeing 14.9v at the battery. I believe this to be a little too high.

Issue 4: The temp guage works sometimes and sometimes it doesnt. It didnt work at all and I replaced the temp sensor, now its intermittent.

Issue 5: Nor really sure if this is an issue but a week or so ago I noticed the crankcase breather hole had a vacuum on it. If i held my finger on it the truck would bog down. Now I notice that it actually blows out instead of sucking in. Maybe due to replacing the PCV valve? Should the breather blow out or suck in?

Issue 6: The idle up diaphragm on the carb has a vacuum hose that leads to a electric switch/valve over on the passenger side by the battery. The valve has another vacuum port that isnt connected to anything. Does anyone know where this open port vacuum hose should hook up to?

Many of these issues maybe related, if anyone can help with one or all the issues your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

Is it a stock carb? If it's a weber and you have no fuel regulator at over 3psi you will be over pressure. I've never noticed vacuum on the breather on my 20r. Typically when the guys run just a filter on the breather you'll see oil on the hood. Your voltage does seem high. The regulator may be on it's way out but I dont really know the safe number for the specific part. I'm guessing by brake lights you mean in the dash. If not check around the firewall where the wires pass or any sharp areas. An exposed powered wire may be contacting an exposed brake wire. If your talking just in the cluster it could be a bad parking brake switch. The temp gauge could be corrosive on the cluster pcb, cut wires, or bad ground. Really for all electrical issues they say start with ground. You have to wait for a reply from someone with more experience that maybe able to help with the other issues and with other resolutions.

 

Thanks for the input.
It is a stock carb and the fuel level is right in the middle of the sight glass.
Yes, it's the brake light and battery lights on the dash.

 

Generally 14.7 is high from a quick search. Probably why the lights tripped.

 

Issue 1: I'm guessing it's some component in that spaghetti of rubber hoses. You should get a service manual (preferably factory) and test each component.

I think I have the same problem. About 5 years ago, I had the dealer replace the carb with a remanufactured unit. When I picked it up, it was idling at 2000rpm. The dealer did this because they messed up something. So now, it runs SOOO rich when cold that it won't idle and the warm up, high idle circuit, doesn't work. What I have to do us drive around for 15minutes to warm up the engine. I shut it off, wait about a minute and then all us well. It even passes smog check!

One of these days, I am going to chase down ALL of the smog equipment to see which one is screwed up.

I didn't take it back to the dealer because if they screwed up once, they'll probably just screw it up again, as in, set the idle back to 2000rpm.

I can't use a Weber because they don't have a smog legal one for my truck. I think it's because by 1988, most Toyota pickups were fuel injection and only a small minority still had carbs, not enough for Weber/Redline to build smog legal kits. Sorry for long answer...

Issue 2, if your engine can't idle, it won't have vacuum. Or, you hooked up the wrong port on the carb? But, IIRC, you're supposed to set initial advance with no vacuum, anyway. So you got to get the engine running smooth.

Issue 6, you really need to get a service manual...

 

Thanks for the reply. I have a FSM for an 88 and so far it seems to be the same. I have been thru the vacuum hoses and at this point am pretty confident they are correct except for the one that runs the fast idle diaphram for the a/c. I dont think that would be an issue since the a/c isnt on. At this point i am starting to lean toward the power piston/valve in the carb or possibly one of the vacuum swithes. Probably gonna pull the carb today and look into rebuilding it and after I screw that up I will probably order a new one, lol. Possibly an EGR delete while im at it.

Im still curious about the crankcase breather tube, whether the crankcase should suck air or blow. Im baffled that it had vacuum a week ago and now it has positive pressure.