HISTORY
Ok so I have a 91 4x4 with a 84 pop-up 4cyl 22r motor. I just did a complete rebuild on the motor with a new crank,main bearings,con rod bearings,new pistons,rings,wrist pins,seals all new gaskets,only thing I changed on the head was the valve seals. It was an efi but I put sock carb on it. I have an electric Holly fuel pump going to the carb. I DID NOT remove or disconect the existing in-tank efi fuel pump or the comp. box. All I did was eliminate all the efi wires under the hood. I found a power source from the efi wires to power the carb and fuel pump.
Problem
It ran great for about a week and I parked it one night after a short stroll(trying to give it a good break-in period),and then I went to start it the next day for another break-in stroll and the valves were clanking loudly.
What I Found
So I popped off the valve cover and saw number two intake valve and valve spring stuck down with the rocker arm in the up position. So then I removed head and sure enough a couple of the intake valves were stuck down and bent. I removed the valves and dicovered a thick resin like gunk on the valves and inside the valve guides. I had to hammer out the valves. So I figured I had some old bad fuel in my tank.(I got this truck for cheap from a friend so I don't know how long it was sitting)
My fix
I changed out all my intake valves and put in new intake valve guides, gave it a good cleaning and then put everything back together. Then I drained the tank of all its old gas thru the drain plug on the tank and put some new fuel in it and it ran great again. Then it happened again with the valves clanking.
Lost
I'm not sure if I have some stubborn crap in the bottom of my tank or maybe I'm putting too much fuel thru the carb. because I didn't disconect the in-tank efi fuel pump. But I don't think so because it was running good. If anybody has any ideas or suggestions please throw them my way. This truck is taking up allot of time and money.

 

please help

I know my story is kinda long but please read it and let me know what you guys think.

 

kinda a random question, were you running it open manifold? ive heard of valves warping after you shut a motor off while running it with no manifold or open header.

also are you running the efi fuel pump to the carb? thats waaay too much fuel pressure for the carb, may also be running super rich and hydro locking

edit: just saw the holley part ignore this ^^^

re-edit: so wait the intake pump is running? or are you just drawing fuel through it and its unplugged but still in tank?

those are the only things i can think of right now that dont involve timing since it runs for a bit then bends the valves

 

Yes It had the stock manifold and exhaust on. The thick resin I found on inside of the valve must harden after the engine cools and then when I go to start it again the valves are frozen in place inside the guides and the bend is caused by me cranking it and the valves hitting the pistons. Hence the clanking noise.

 

hows your valve seals, waaaay to tight? also since you have replaced your valves did you replace the guides in the head as well?

 

Yes changed guides and put on new seals. I tested them on the head and they move freely up and down like they should.

 

and you said you can run it for a while then on next start up it smashes, or smashes right away?

 

When you rebuilt the engine, did you install a new timing chain set? Also upon inspection of the valves, did you check the timing chain sprokets (gears) to see if you chipped any teeth or cracked a gear? That happened to me on my nissan altima when I floated the valves. I bent all the intake valves and chipped 1/4 of the teeth that were on the crank shaft timing chain sproket. Also, what do you mean by a pop -up 4cyl 22r? If the pistons are the high top style and the head is for the flat top style pistons... that could be the problem.

 

Yeah its like it takes a few days of running it to build up enough of this resin in the valves to cease them up. I really drained the tank good. I parked it on a back slope and when it got down to the last of the fuel I was shaking the truck left to right just to get all of it out. I was thinking to put some gas treatment or this stuff I heard about called Cfoam in the tank and let it sit for a while then drain it again. Then fill it up with good fuel and run some more treatment thru the lines just to just to make sure. If it happens again after that I'm gonna drive this truck off a fuggin cliff.

 

hm... got any pics of this "resin"? maybe too much assembly lube? i really have no clue at this point. Maybe call a machine shop and see if they have heard of this. The one we use for my work has seen everything under the sun ya know

 

valves

EOTS yes I forgot to mention I installed a new timing set with chain, tensioner,sprocket, and guides.Btw this chain is a link longer then the standard 22r I learned that the expensive way. Sorry we call it a pop up motor on Guam(piston tops look like the bottom of a beer can) but it is the proper head.(bigger chamber and the exhaust ports are round with a smaller circle on top and a larger circle on the bottom) Like I said it runs great until I park it and it cools. If I floated the valves or was skipping on the sprocket I would have known at the time. Thanks guys I appreciate all the help.

 

As for assm. lube I put a little bit of 3in1 oil on the valve stem but no nothing serious.

 

oh you got the laser block timing kit with the old non laser block... that can cause an issue. when things get bent do you set everything up to tdc and check your timing before you take it apart? i wonder if on start up your chain jumps or you got slack from the tensioner being all the way out and *kiss kiss* your valves and pistons meet..


edit: i fix cars i dont teach english, sorry for my crappy run ons

 

I don't think I got a laser block timing set. The deck height on a pop motor block is higher then the standard. I'm not sure about the deck height on a laser block. I found out by taking a stand. 22r timing cover thinking it was the same and trying to bolt it up. It was short as was the chain. So I measured it and sure enough it was like an inch or so higher. I haven't checked my timing but I will Before I open it up this weekend.

 

ok i know there is a difference between the timing chains with the 2 blocks. that may be your issue right there.

 

Let me check if my timing has jumped. But that still doesn't explain this resin crap. It gets super hard I had to scrape it off with a knife. When you say "two blocks" you mean the laser block and my pop up block right? I don't know anything about laser blocks. What is the deck height on laser block or how many links are on a laser block chain?

 

Did you use 3-in-1 oil to put the valves in both times? if so that might be the problem, use assembly lube or motor oil.

 

i know the deck heights are different and there are 2 different timing sets. im not 100% on the heights and what not, i know people on here have that stuff memorized here is the 22r wiki

Toyota R engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

Check out LC's website for the technical info. Sorry to say but, if you don't know the differences between the laser and non-laser blocks/heads then it's really easy to mix parts and make costly mistakes.

I'd give you the info myself but, it's alot of typing!

 

timing is a big deal lol.