im planing on using 2.25 ss to make the exhaust on my 22re. what the max size you can run be for you lode back pressure? cuz i might go to 2.50
2.25 is optimal. 2.50 is just not worth the loss. whatever manifold/header you want (factory manifold with 2.25" after the collectors SHOULD help alot.), 2.25", high flow cat if you want to go there, keep it muffled a bit, and 2.25" whatever muffler body you want. I would ONLY go 2.50" or more AFTER the muffler body. My exhaust ends before the axle, I just let it free exit the Magnaflow I have, why not just let it free. the extra length of the tail pipe would add restriction. good luck lolux!
^^^x2 what he said. 2.25 is optimal for these motors w/out much mods. If you are going turbo 3.00" is best!!!
2.5" works good for me. Built motor, sidedrafts, LC pro header, 9lb flywheel, etc. Manifold or header choice makes a big difference. Even if you just combine a LC pro header with a 2.5" exhaust on a stock motor it is a noticeable improvement vs a LC (or some other) street header and a 2.25" exhaust. Stock motor and stock manifold I would stick with a 2.25" exhaust.
as mentioned above...... with a mild build in mind, i placed a 2 1/2 inch system on mine when i first got my exhaust done. you can run a 2 1/2 system on a bone stock motor..... unless you carry seriously heavy loads, i doubt you'll notice a loss in low end. the one thing it will do is kill some of the higher tone rasp from the exhaust when you use a header and flow through design muffler. depending on what your needs are and what you want it to sound like will depend on what size exhaust option you should go with.
This is what I have right now. I still need a high flow cat and 6 v-bands. I'm cutting the flanges out the header and putting the v- bands on. Its all going to be full stainless steel. But I might cut the coletter off and put a ss one on. Cuz LC put a steel one one there. Sucky
The system looks serious. I think you should give her a cam and some other intake goodies if you go 2.5". Give her the extra love for what she'll put out
Im building a sheet metal intake for a 7 mge TB but for now I'm going to weld a 7mge tb flange to my in take and I'm got to port it. I I haven't look at cam yet but if I do I need a Cali. Somg legal one. I have look at LC to c if they have on.
Mine has been 2.25 from the cat back for about 3 years, I got all the mandrel bends for my new exhaust, its going to be 2.25 from the manifold back now
does intake and exhaust work negatively affect gas mileage? i've heard stuff like K&N intakes drop gas mileage however it doesnt make sense to me because your engine wont have to work as hard to move you at the same speeds right?
no...... but sine some people enjoy the sound of the new intake under power, they tend to "ride" the intake and or exhaust when it sounds good and will unconsciously use more gas doing that. for the most part however, you will use less fuel, and gain mileage.
The mods themselves affecting gas mileage depends on what they're replacing. some cars have horribly convoluted intake or exhaust paths that benefit incredibly from being removed. Some cars (many 80s/early 90s toyotas) have fairly direct routes using decent size tubing and a cold-air snorkel. Some cars, like Miatas, use resonance tuning to help smooth out the powerband: people put a smooth intake pipe in hoping for more power but instead it just drops off from 2500-3500 or something like that (dyno proven). That being said, mods done wrong can certainly hinder the engine. too big of exhaust for the engine tune and it's use will move the usable power band up too far. An improperly routed or placed intake can pull in very hot air from a place in the engine bay that doesn't get very good circulation. The best thing to do is actually measure the pressure drop before and after mods to figure out where the problem is and what to do to fix it. Autospeed has some excellent articles on using a Dwyer Magnehelic vacuum gauge (basically an extremely accurate and sensitive differential vacuum/pressure gauge) However, the engine is not the only thing that contributes to FE: the driver can get 20 mpg with a fuel sipper or 30 with a guzzler. If you drive to hear the changes your mods make or make use of the power they freed up, your gas mileage will suffer. If you drive no differently, they may help...or not (see above). For example, in my fiancee's 03 mazda protege5 slushbox with manual shift mode (which is rated 25 mpg city/30 hwy) with a scangauge (instant FE and other stuff) driving like an idiot like everyone else gets around 24 mpg in town if you can get up to 35-40 and cruise some. if you never get over 35, Fe is below 22 mpg. If I try to drive for FE, taking advantage of DFCO, optimum speed, short-shifting, slow starts, etc. I can reach 32+ mpg IN TOWN. In a car that gets 31 mpg at 65 mph flat, no wind (horrible "sporty" overdrive gearing). EDIT: That ended up a horribly long way to say "maybe".
