HELP!!! Can't stop brake fluid leaks!!

Discussion in 'Suspension/Chassis' started by mprtftr, Jun 22, 2013.

  1. mprtftr

    mprtftr Enthusiast

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    I recently eliminated the LSPV on my truck and when I removed the line from the back that ran to the tee under the front,I blocked it off with the NPT plug, bled the brakes and everything seemed fine. After letting it sit over night though, when I went out to the garage today, I noticed a small puddle of fluid under the truck near the block-off plug. I'm thinking it's coming from the block-off because I see traces of brake fluid on the frame rail.
    Also, I tried to install the Summit Racing proportioning valve and even with the metric to standard adapters it leaks. Am I missing something here guys? What could possibly be the cause?
     
  2. first80toyota

    first80toyota Addict

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    Did you use any Teflon tape or sealant on the fittings?

    also maybe try tightening them a little more..
     
  3. SD YOTA

    SD YOTA Grand Toyotaholic

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    seems like its not seating properly on that flared fitting... can you take pictures of the flare and all the adapters yer using? its gonna be my bet one of those aint matching up somewhere in there and thats why you have a leak.
     
  4. mprtftr

    mprtftr Enthusiast

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    The lines are factory which I'm sure you're familiar with, but her are pics of everything else. I tried to flip the first one but it wouldn't work with me. (Sorry guys :duh:)
    The label from the adapter packaging.
    [​IMG]
    The Proportioning valve
    [​IMG]
    The adapter for the "In" port on the valve
    [​IMG]
    The adapter for the "Out" port on the valve
    [​IMG]

    I thought about the Teflon tape, but wouldn't the brake fluid break it down?
     
  5. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    There are 2 different metric M10x1.0 flare types. One is for japanese flares the other is for european flares.

    That said I have always done it one of 2 ways. The old way was to flatten and fold the hard line past the nut and reinstall it. That worked perfectly and is still on a couple of my old rigs in service to this day. The other is to cut the line at the back of the nut and weld it solid. Again those are still being used. Much easier than digging for the correct plug IMO. :D
     
  6. mprtftr

    mprtftr Enthusiast

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    Can you post a picture or two so I can see what you're describing?
     
  7. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    I don't have any pictures handy of the flare differences but here's a pic of what buddy did on a project truck. He just welded the open end of the fitting. You can also swap the T fitting for the 90* elbow from a junked truck without the LSPV.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. SD YOTA

    SD YOTA Grand Toyotaholic

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    there's always this.... you cut all but a few inches off the arm for the bpv and slap this on the end.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. kamesama980

    kamesama980 Addict

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    I just did the same thing to my truck but not the lazy way, removing all the old lines and joints. No welded plugs or blocked off T's. Partially because I had a line rust out and many that were close.

    1/8" NPT isn't used anywhere on your truck which is why those are leaking.

    The different flare types are bubble and double. our trucks use double flare. M10x1.0 is the same, it's the flare on the end of the lines that are different.

    The fittings in the summit prop-valve are 3/8-24, not M10x1.0. You'll need a 3/8-24 line nutat the summit adapter and flare the 3/32 line after it's on (double flare, not single)

    So the rear line will be like this:
    master cyl(M10)-----(3/8)[3/8-1/8npt]prop valve[3/8-1/8npt](3/8)--------(M10)T at rear axle
     

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