im ready to slap the new gasket on and im contemplating not using te sealer i used last time........ its Copper seal-a-gasket by Permatex. supposed to be used for flanges, and good for use on cylinder heads.

would you guys use this or just leave the gasket as is and install on its own? i got the head gasket from engnbldr. (rock auto head gasket)

what are your guys' opinions?

 

that one i cant chime in on, but i do know i just read somewhere there is a weird process of torque the bolts on these where you have to do it very precise and in steps of about 15-20 lbs. maybe i mixed that info with something else though. somebody will know. i havent done a head gasket on mine yet.

 

yea...... you usually finger tighten them, then tighten them in incraments and in a certain order too. i have that specific info with the toyota fsm......

i just cant remember using sealer in any of the other motors ive put together and then seen this a few weeks ago when i first slapped the head on the motor.....then i had the water leak issue now im wondering if it contributed to the issue?

 

have you checked the head levelness? and the block with the front cover on you said had to be done seperate, maybe that held it up just a hair?

 

AL,
I'd dump that HG and pickup a fel-pro... It's like 25 bucks at your local autozone... Both sides of the felpro have a bonding material vs the rock HG that has more exposed metal on the head side...

 

the HG from engnbldr is a Toyota Turbo 22RE head gasket as i was told.. it is a OEM toyota headgasket that they get stamped in there Rockauto name.. i have no issues with leaking water from the HG i have slight leak from the timing cover where your heater core hose connects to the motor on the pass side.. rest of the parts are A+ but i was in a hurry to put the motor back together only had 5 days total... to rebuild mine


Fel-pro dose make great gaskets also though if u think you have any failing i would replace with them

 

well..... i ended up using the gasket, dabbed some rtv in that split between the cover and the block as everyone suggested.... (toyota's fsm suggests this also) torqued down the head in 20lb. incriments, then filled the motor end with water and kept an eye on it.......... no leaks occured as last time....... (yet...)

so im hoping that was the only issue...... ive seen felpro gaskets and always thought they were kinda flimsy

not sure on those but i do have a spare one just in case...

im hoping to plug everything up and then attempt a start up by tonight.... ill let you guys know how this goes.... keep your fingers crossed everyone

 

use copper gasket sealant on top of that even better garentee no blown head gasket for 100 years!!

 

well.......... here's what happened....



and yes..... i know my cam is noisy.... it actually quieted down as i broke in the cam so i know i will need to readjust the valve lash once its fully broke in.

 

dont forget to retorque the head after a good heat cycle.


ive found that a new HG will seep a bit until you've retorqed it. i go up to 85lbs on the retorque.

 

85lbs?????

holy crap. fsm suggests 58 lbs...... i guess i can go a few extra lbs just to make sure it stays. i cycled it twice last night. one more and ill be checking it and the lash.

 

i actually know people that go all the way up to 100lbs, thats F'n crazy right there.



not saying you have to go that high, but i a lil bit of seeping, so kept going up by 5lbs and a heat cycle, cleared up at 85.

 

wow.... yea, ill try that. how many heat cycles did you run your motors through and what length intervals?

breaking the cam in, i did about 15 minutes revving it up some changing the rpm's anywhere between 1500 to 2500 rpm's. cycled it about 3 times

ill try and get another video tomorrow as it IS getting quieter and sounding better. i think i will bring it up to temp one more time, run it 15 more minutes, then cycle one more time and recheck the torque on the bolts and run the valves.

 

dont sound to bad i ran mine for 45 min at 2400 rpm then changed oil adjusted valves... drove for 30 min let cool for about 20 min then drove home from lapine... 200 miles over hwy 58 did fine.. retorqed head @ 1k miles and changed oil adjusted valves

 

damn you have alot of vacuum lines on there. lol.

 

yea.... oddly enough.... i pretty much knew where they all whent without the diagram

i still checked them tho.... waaaay too many of those buggers