I've been looking around at other people's ideas for retrofitting some projectors into an h6054 lens body for some time now, but I finally got around to completing it this week. I started with an old ebay retrofit kit, which included the wiring harness required for an HID upgrade, and cut the back out of the lenses. Because they are glass lenses I didn't want to risk shattering them if I seperated them from the body, and didn't want to deal with glueing them back together afterward. I took some 3" PVC pipe caps, drilled holes through the centers, planed them flat so the projector hardware could mount flush and perpendicular to the housing, and trimmed the ends to be able to fit into the lens body. From there, assembling the projector cap is pretty easy. Test the solenoid to make sure the hi beam works. Give everything a wipe down with a lint free rag and rubbing alcohol to remove finger oils. Mount the shroud. Fish the wires through the cap and mount the projector to the cap. Here is the whole kit during assembly, where I epoxyed the fully assembled PVC cap with projector to the lens body after the caps were complete. Once I get my H1 bulbs, I can install the whole kit into the car and test the cutoff line. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with the results! I will continue to post again with more pictures of the results and fitment, and I will be happy to answer any questions that come up. Just for reference, I think in total, I spent around $75 for the whole kit.
the cheapest ebay projector kit I could get my hands on. We'll see how well it works. I've seen people using Morimoto Mini H1's, but I can settle for crap. The projectors http://www.ebay.com/itm/251975264942?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT the bulbs http://www.ebay.com/itm/32193579549...49&var=510879262328&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT and a generic HID retrofit kit with harness and lenses.
Yes, I have the whole wiring harness which came with the original lamps. I'll take more photos of everything before they go in, and after shots of them running. I'm using 55w ballasts/bulbs at 5000k
What kind of HID's do you have? I am running projectors, where the low beams are constantly on, but a shield blocks them from projecting upwards, creating a high beam. Other types of HIDs have different setups, so I'm not sure why you would have only high but now low beams.
Alright, I got the bulbs this morning, and I installed them into the lenses, and into the truck. I had to modify my already modified battery mount bracket to make a little room for the bulbs and wires in the rear of the headlamp, but otherwise, it was an easy task. Here is the wiring harness and the two completed lenses. I'd like to thank In-n-Out Burger for their generous support by supplying me with their plastic trays, which keep all of my hobbies organized. Here is a photo after I finished the install. Night shots! The colors are great, all pure white, to match the corners and the switchback LEDs in the running light/turn signal mod. The light coming from the headlamps is very bright. Low beams. It has a clean cutoff line, I made very little adjustment to accommodate the movement of all of the plastic and metal on the install. Please excuse the fence, I found this wall in front of a neighbors house on a slope, so the lights don't seem to be level. High beams. Great coverage, lots of flooded light. The solenoids work great at their job! Overall, I think this was a fun project. I have one of the best commutes, coming from San Francisco into Marin County. For those who know that drive, after you leave the city lights across the Golden Gate Bridge, it gets pretty dark pretty quick, and with the occasional deer crossing, I wanted to make sure I was getting the best light possible for my late night returns home. I still have to field test this mod, but I think the results are great.
Im curious about the road test... I bought a pair of projectors off ebay, just like yours... one had a broken lense. Seller barely spoke English and wouldn't send a replacement. They only offered 50% a whole other pair, lame. Needless to say, i still haven't done the retrofit. Oh yeah and my dog found my bulbs and chewed the wires off, lol.
YOguyDA Road tests are positive. The light is thrown much farther down-road than with sealed beams, and the light is very bright, white, and crisp. I will find time to shoot a few more night shots with longer ranges for variety.
I don't have a SKU sheet with all of the specific products, specs that I manufactured them to, or costs, since I mostly felt my way through the project, with a lot of trial and error, and luck. I encourage you to do the same, as it will make you a better engineer.
How about... what tools/methods did you end up using to cut the housing and cap? Looks like good work! Very clean!
Sure! I first placed the lens housing on a level area of my workbench, glass side down, testing with a small bubble level to ensure it was flat. I took the PVC cap and placed that on top of the back of the housing, ensuring it was level again. I took a sharpie and drew the outline of where they met, knowing that would be my cut line. I also took a circular protractor/ruler that happened to be the exact 3" diameter of everything, and measured out every 90 degrees, as you can see in the pictures. That would allow me to fit everything back as close as possible and ensure the projector was aiming level down-road. I hand cut it with a Dremel and cutoff wheel, being very careful not to cut more than the sharpie line. It cut like a hot knife through butter. This part needed to just be open enough to let the projector housing through. I measured the distance from the mount on the projector and the cap of the PVC so I could see how far it would go into the lens, and decided I had about 1/4" of material that I needed to remove from the cap. From there, I set up a fence on my table saw, set the blade as high as i would need, and very carefully trimmed the top of the PVC first, removing enough material for the top to be flat and allow the projector to mount snug and level, and then turned it around and trimmed the 1/4" off the bottom, making sure it was pressed flat against the fence to ensure a perfect, level, and even removal. The second part mattered most, because that would be the contact point against the lens housing, and would need to be flat so the epoxy would set consistently. After a good dry fit of everything, and a nice soapy bath to remove all of the dust and particles, I used JB-Weld to seal the parts together, and to plug the wire holes for the high beams solenoid shield. As a note, I initially bought caps from Home Depot, and they were too short to work, so I went to the local Ace Hardware to get a different brand of caps. Those were the ones I ended up using. They were taller, and allowed for me to remove what material I didn't need.
As requested! The first photo is just the driving lights. The second photo is headlights on. The third photo is high beams on.
Engine bay shots. Battery/Intake swap and supra AFM upgrades. Drivers side. I had to fabricate a small bracket extension to push the battery back a bit, so it wouldn't contact and crush the bulb or wires. No problem. Passenger side.
quick question, the bulb that you purchased had low beam and high beam??? Sorry if you answered this already .
The projector itself has a solenoid/cut off shield that's actuated when you turn on the brights. So, it uses a standard hid H1 bulb.