I finally have gotten the motor torn down. The #1 rod bearing was shot, creaping between the rod and main cap. The #2 piston skirt was shattered into pieces. I have pics, still trying to figure out how to do that.

Ok, I need the crank turned for sure. I'm looking at a the master kit from egnbldr.
My question is, what do I need to be askin the machine shop for this kit? I know the bearing sizes, main and rod, and bore(I'm thinking of going with a 0.30 overbore.

What else? I would like to keep this a "pick up the block and crank and get the kit in the mail and put it together" experience. if possible


Larry

 

you need to have the machine shop see if they need to just polish the rod journal on the crank or if they actually need to machine it and take .1 off the journals since the bearing went poopy. you will need to order bearings acordingly for that, your mains should be standard size and your pistons size .30 over as well as the rings and headgasget.

 

The rod journal will need machining, no doubt, I can feel the grooves in it.

Something else, the thrust spacers, what attention do they need, I know nothing of them. Could someone give me some insight to them?? thier purpose and do they require special attention?

So, bearing size for the rods and possibly mains if they need machining, and bore. any other details I need from the shop?

Will this be all I will need to complete the job? or are there other things I'm missing?


Larry

 

When ya get your rebuild kit it should have a new thrust washer in it. Its what keeps the crank from moving forwards and backwards in the engine. There is nothing special you need to know about ordering one with your kit. The directions in your engine assembly manual will tell ya how to set thrust

 

too tired to read everything but take the parts to the machine shop. have all the work done and they will tell you what sizes to order, then order it once u know for sure.

 

OK, sounds good.

Thanks

Larry

 

Went by the machine shop that I plan on using today. A very reputable, and busy, shop.
He quoted me for the block work: clean, bore, recondition the rods, turn the crank, etc. $290.00. Head recondition: clean, resurface and valve job $145.00

I called a few other places just to compare and they were inline and a couple times cheaper.

Looks like I drop it off Monday

On another note, One shop told me they would charge $100.00 for piston installation to the rods!funny,,, I didnt even let him finish his quote. LOL The shop I'm using stated, on his own, there is no need for them to assemble the piston and rods that was easy to do myself.
Another point for an honest man.

Larry

 

thats not a bad deal my shop (united speed world) charges
block bore and hone 22 a cylinder 88 total
rod recondition 60 for 4 rods
clean block 50
crank turn 115


also labor for them to instal anything is gunna be expensive. they wanted 100 bucks to drop in my crank without the pistons or rods.. and 100 to drop the rods in plus another certain amount to put the pistons and rings on... basicaly 400 for a bottom end put together...worth the money they check everything !!!!!

 

Thats pretty close to the same... I think I can take my time and put together the bottom end.

 

Pics of the carnage !

Hope this works. The first one is pretty much a celebratory pic and a sigh of relief its out.

 

Second pic shows it untouched and caked with oil thats been leaking for a long time.

 

Third as you can tell the chain guide, but look at the bolt it started wearing into it also! Then it was rubbing the cover, I had no water in the oil though. Question, is it ok to use it since it did not rub thru to the water jacket, or just get a new one?

 

This one shows the cover damage.

 

Here we have the first hint of the damage.. thats part of a piston skirt sitting on the oil pickup.

 

Pics of the Carnage!

In the oil pan was Alot more BIG pieces of the piston skirt.