spent over $1000.00 and hours of work last year on engine, new head,timing chain and gears, dist., signal generater, ran great, let it sit a few weeks now no spark, saw on here where someone used GM parts to replace the igniter box, how do you wire that up? thank you for help

 

Parts Required:
Ignition Module from a 1979 GM truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N DR100
Coil from a 1972 Chevrolet k10 4wd truck with a 350 CI engine Autozone P/N C819
Optionally you can get or build a heat sink to mount the ignition module to. It is not needed but it wouldn't hurt.

Special Tools Required:
Soldering Iron and resin core solder
Misc. wire connectors
Wire Crimping Pliers
Test Light

Important to know:
You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W.

B = +12v Power
C = Ground to Coil
W = Signal wire from distributor
G = Signal wire from distributor


Installation:
First off, start by removing the toyota ignition and coil, it is one unit on the toyota. It will have 3 wires running into it from the harness, 2 from the distributor and 1 spark plug wire.

Then find a place to mount your ignition module. Either inside the cab or in the engine bay. Drill your holes and mount your ignition module down. You will notice the holes are lined with steel for the mounting, this is the ground for you module. I attached a wire from one of the mounting bolts, to a clean body ground to insure proper grounding of the module.

Secondly, find a place to mount your new round coil. This will need to be somewhat close to the distributor as it has to have a spark plug wire attaching it to the coil.

After both have been mounted the job is darn near done, here comes the easy part, wiring everything up.

You will find 4 connections on the ignition module. Being marked B, C, G, W.

B = +12v Power
C = Ground to Coil
W = Signal wire from distributor
G = Signal wire from distributor


First off, find yourself +12v keyed power. You can use a test light and use the original wiring, or hook in anywhere that has keyed power, if running it off another circuit other then the original ignition circuit make sure it is fused. 99% of everyone will use there original +12v power wire that ran to the coil (samurai) or ignitor (toy) because the factory ignition fuse in the fuse box will be functional.

Keyed power runs to the B terminal on the ignition module. I used a connector to attach it to the terminal. Off of this terminal you will need to run a second wire, which will be a hot +12v power wire that runs to the + side of the coil.

C terminal is a ground wire for your coil, so run a wire from C terminal to the - side of your coil.

Now you have G and W left to wire on the ignition module. Take a look at your distributor, you have 2 wires running off of it. You need to attach one to the G terminal and one to the W terminal. I have found it to be indifferent as to which goes where on my system.

Quick System rundown for troubleshooting:

When you hit the key, you apply 12v power to the ignition module at terminal B, and to the coil, which then goes back to the ignition module on terminal C. The coil begins to energize waiting for a ground to make it discharge. When you crank the engine, the magnetic pickup will signal the ignition module through the wires attached to terminals W & G to create a ground on post C, which then grounds the coil and makes it discharge through the spark plug wire and back into the distributor cap.

I said that much because it is quite possible that the magnetic pick up in the distributor is not set properly. This is referred to as air gap, and must be set with a feeler gauge. It is very easy to set, but if it is off you will never get spark. Other troubleshooting procedures can be found in the factory service manual with specs on resistance and such for the Distributor.

 

Wow what an awesome first post ! I hope you copied and pasted that cause its a lot to type Hope you'll come back by.

 

Has anyone checked what dwell angle this set up runs at? Also can you substitute a MSD or Accell high voltage coil? I have stock points ignition with stock igniter on my 76, I just replaced my points today and checked my coil output to the distributor, my old setup is only averaging 7 kilovolts out of the stock igniter. I hear the Davis DUI units are reworked to suit the toyota's, how does this setup compare to the DUI unit?