So I've been tinkering on my 81' 2WD pickup for almost a year now and I've decided to turn it into a weekend drift truck. What do y'all recommend as suspension upgrades for this? I'm not looking to do anything more intense than some local amateur drift days so I don't need it to be too competitive. I'm already talking to a shop about dropping in a 1UZ w/ R154 or W58 for powertrain. So far I've only lowered the thing via torsion bars and blocks in the rear (I have Belltech leafs coming in the mail too). Would I need to do any of the following? -Prothane sway bars/links -New Sway-Away torsion bars -New shocks front and rear -LCE Disc brake upgrade for rear -New bushings everywhere -Front brake upgrade (what are my options?) -New rear-end and/or driveshaft? (not planning on going above 300whp) Anything else I should consider that I'm overlooking? Thanks!
If you're not planning more than 300 hp, consider looking at a 3sge beams with the 6 speed transmission. Cheap, reliable, and about $1500 for an engine/trans package. Also, about the same weight as stock, but much more power, and not hard to squeeze even more out of it. There's also a turbo version, but AFAIK it was only mated to that useless (in this instance) gearbox for FWD or Rear-engined cars (celicas and MR2s). If you go the 1UZ route, you're picking one of the heaviest options for the amount of HP it produces (yes, it has a good amount of torque, which a w58 probably won't like). A 2jz-gte with the R154 would probably be smarter, if only because you can boost the shit out of it without changing the bottom end No matter the engine, if you go with anything sorta modern it's going to be an electronic speedometer and not a cable driven one, so you'll be swapping out part of your cluster. Unless, somehow, you get an older w58 that IS cable driven (Celica/Supras), but I'm not gonna tell you it'll take the power of something badass (because I don't know) Upgrade your shocks no matter what, even if you keep it stock. Check the play in your steering, and tighten/shim it if you gotta. If you really want to get drift angle, you'll need to mod your steering. I don't know how to do that For the record, I am not an expert.
Thanks Tuhd! As I've been reading into this more and more, I'm definitely leaning more towards your suggestion of the 3SGE Beams w/ the J160 6-speed. I found one online with the loom, ECU, and an aftermarket GReddy Turbo kit for only $3500. Or I can go with the NA block w/ M/T for $1500 and build it with some upgrades before it gets dropped into the truck. It's a little more expensive than the 1UZ but I like that it's lighter and smaller, making the conversion a bit easier. Plus those Beams motors have such a nice consistent powerband across the revs which makes it ideal for my amateur drift desires. I was definitely going to upgrade shocks on all 4 corners. Any recommendations for brand? Most of the ones I see are intended for lifts on 4x4, not drops. Also, is there any feasible front brake upgrade for the RN30 or should I just go ahead and swap out the front suspension with the 88+? (I still haven't been able to find a comprehensive list of parts needed from the donor along with DIY steps)
I can't speak to anyone else's front brake upgrades as far as discs, but I have ridiculous stopping power now that I've upgraded the booster and master cylinder. Not gonna lie, I went overkill. I hit up rockauto for the biggest of both, and found a booster spacer on ebay so it'd clear all the shit on the firewall. I also recently did a full pad and rotor swap, nothing fancy, just the stock shit but not worn to shit. Smooth as butter, but if you kick too hard you'll put your butt through the windshield. Before you upgrade the brakes, make sure you at least have your rear suspension bushings all replaced. If yours are rotted out, that messes with braking. I chased what I thought were brake issues for months before a random "lets swap out the stock leafs with drop leafs" led to me having new bushings, and suddenly my crap brake feel was gone. For shocks, I've seen recommendations for the Nitro Drop shocks if you do torsion lowering. Otherwise, I personally have KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. The rear shocks on my '82, with a 3" Belltech leaf drop are damn near perfect as far as driving feel (to me, at least); when I come down the rear always feels planted, and isn't bouncy. Now, I'm not really feeling the fronts overall on my ride, but likely I have to get the upgraded torsion springs from Sway-A-Way, as they've reintroduced them recently (model 1626, if you're curious). Parts for the suspension swap, just grab all the suspension and steering shit in one go. Arms, linkages, dinglefloppers, ALL OF IT. That's all I know, I haven't yet followed through on that step yet.
Interesting stuff this as I’m in a similar position. What are the advantages of the leaf drop over lowering block?
https://www.suspension.com/products/toyota_pickup_2wd_1980 I've heard good stuff about these guys as far as steering and bushings go.
Blocks can introduce additional axle wrap, which is bad if you like to launch the truck (even on a barely upgraded, never rebuilt block, it gets noticeable above an inch or two). The belltech leafs have about as much as stock. It also means if you're like me, you do the leafs, and still do blocks, but it's smaller blocks so less wrap. 2" blocks vs what would be 5" blocks on mine.
Ah I see - how do the Belltech leafs ride? I would like something similar to standard as the roads in the rural area of England where I live can be rough.
I love 'em. Close enough to perfect spring rate, and with the stock shocks or the upgraded KYB shocks I've got now, it's great as a daily setup for the rear end. It still feels right, if you compare it to the standard setup. You won't lose anything, other than height, and a few hours depending on how seized your nuts are. Now, depending on how huge your bumps stops are you might want to shave an inch off, but it might not matter. If you do 2" blocks on top of the leafs down the line, you'll need to cut all but the last cm off.
