Clutch play!!

Discussion in 'Maintenance/Repair' started by slaytonpdx, Jan 29, 2009.

  1. slaytonpdx

    slaytonpdx Member

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    My Clutch pedal has play in it almost all the way to the floor. Clutch engages maybe and inch or two from the floor. Reverse Grinds no matter what I do, and first and second are sticky, sometimes almost imposible to shift into.... any ideas?

    1989 Carb, 22R,4 sp.
     
  2. V8_TITAN

    V8_TITAN Toyotaholic

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    ya my 4 speed grinded into reverse as well...bleed your clutch and if that doesnt help replace master or slave cylinder and maybe the clutch if it needs it ?

    oh and I fixed it by upgrading to a 5 speed celica tranny..
     
  3. Sound.Vision.Soul

    Sound.Vision.Soul Toyotaholic

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    Yea check the Clutch Master fluid resovior to see if it is low. If it is check the lines for leaks as well as the master and slave cylinder. If they look fine bleed it out like V8 suggested!

    Thats where i would start. :cool:
     
  4. slaytonpdx

    slaytonpdx Member

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    thanks for the tip, i dont really know how to bleed the clutch.... kinda a newbie... also should i adjust the pedal? isnt there a screw for that right on the top of the pedal arm?
     
  5. V8_TITAN

    V8_TITAN Toyotaholic

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    dont adjust your pedal.. even if it can be done your just neglecting the actual fix to your problem... look it up online on how to do these things, its the same for all standard trans cars and trucks...
     
  6. Sound.Vision.Soul

    Sound.Vision.Soul Toyotaholic

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    Bleeding out the system is simple. But your gonna need 2 people. Find your slave cylinder on the side of the tranny. Think it is on the right side... dont hold me to that. On the top side of it there will be a little screw about a 8 or 10mm hex on it with a hole in the top. Fill your resivoir (DOT 3 Brakefluid) up and get someone in the truck to pump the pedal. With the pedal help to the floor, crack the bleeder screw and fluid should rush out. Or air bubbles. If there is air sputtering out thats a good thing in your case. Now tighten the bleeder screw again and the person in the car can let go of the pedal. Will most likely have to pull it up with there hand. Now pump the pedal 3 or 4 times again get them to hold it to the floor and crack the bleeder again. Keep doing this unitl there is no air sputtering out. You want a nice solid stream of fluid.
     
  7. toy_boy

    toy_boy Addict

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    .....or you could use a "One-Man Brake Bleeder w/ Bottle". I purchased one at Napa Auto for less than $7 when I replaced my Clutch Master Cylinder and Slave. Take the end of the little hose and secure it over the nipple/fitting on the Slave. Secure the bottle by using the magnet attached to it and stick it to the frame somewhere. Loosen the nipple/fitting and fluid will begin to drip, and flow down your tube, and into the bottle. You'll initially see bubbles coming out with the fluid. Once the bubbles stop and the fluid is flowing smoothly, then you know your system has been bled. Simply tighten the fitting back up.

    Just don't loosen the nipple/fitting too much. You just want it loose enough to drip. Let gravity do it's thing.

    The bottle comes with directions and though it says "Brake Bleeder" you can use it for your clutch as well. Same principles apply.

    [​IMG]

     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2009
  8. Frinzo

    Frinzo Toyotaholic

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    hehe, when i bleed brake i just use a 20oz bottle and a hose to go over the nipples...an old friend told me how to do it and ive been doing it ever since. all it cost was the cost of whatever ur drinkin :D
     
  9. lownloud

    lownloud Toyotaholic

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    :clapping: Sound.Vision.Soul & toy_boy those are some great posts/writeups and should really help him out, both are very effective and work very well :clapping: I would & have personally used both of those techniques that should get you going if not please let us know if you need anymore help slaytonpdx . . .
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2009
  10. ShoNuff

    ShoNuff Toyotaholic

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    while we're on the subject of 1 man bleeding.


    i have used a stick to compress the pedal and wedge it into the seat.

    then i ran around and cracked the valve.

    rinse dry repeat.
     
  11. Sound.Vision.Soul

    Sound.Vision.Soul Toyotaholic

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    Yea that would work too in a pinch! Never heard of that tho... but good idea :cool:
     
  12. slaytonpdx

    slaytonpdx Member

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    Thanks for all the tips. I got my buddy over here and we replaced the slave cylinder, bled the line and BAM! (like the crazy guy in the comercial) its all good now, better than before even! Thanks again for all the help everyone.

    PS we tried bleeding the line with the tube and empty coke bottle but the hose I had didnt fit the nipple.
     
  13. Sound.Vision.Soul

    Sound.Vision.Soul Toyotaholic

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    Glad to hear its all working good for ya! :cool:
     
  14. Owen Branigan

    Owen Branigan Newbie

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    I am having similar problems. My clutch pedal only disengages the pressure plate at the last inch of travel, and i have to shut off the car to put it in reverse.
    This is actually the second time this has happened. My mechanic replaced my slave clutch cylinder 2 months ago but the same issue has come back, (explained above.)
    I plan to tackle this myself, as both the master and slave seem relatively easy to access and replace, and because i want to identify what is causing this issue to come back.

    So far what i can determine is
    - the master reservoir seems to be empty from popping the cap.
    - no signs of leakage near the clutch pedal in the cab or anywhere on the line between the master and the slave.
    - I do see a very mild drip collecting at the lowest point of the transmission. The fluid seems to be clear and could be the clutch fluid, but i cannot find any path of travel that would connect them to each other.

    I am looking for any general advice on the diagnosis part of this repair. the bleeding and removal install are within my skill level, but i am running out of ideas for where this fluid is going to determing the leaking point.

    - my only idea is to fill up the resevoir and have a friend just pump the heck out of the pedal until i find something.

    THOUGHTS??? thanks!
     
  15. fred heath

    fred heath Enthusiast

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    Could be several things. Air in the line, bad clutch m/s, contaminated fluid or a leaking connection.
    Start by flushing the entire system. You can do this using gravity, no need to pump the pedal. Get a container of new brake fluid (quart or 2 pints). Place a catch pan under the slave cylinder and open the 10mm bleed nut all the way. Open the reservoir and start pouring new brake fluid into the system. Watch the fluid coming out of the slave cylinder. When new and clear quickly close the bleeder, then top off the reservoir to the fill line. Everything should work now. If it doesn’t, and you can find no leaks, it’s most likely the clutch cylinder itself.
     
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  16. Owen Branigan

    Owen Branigan Newbie

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    thanks fred heath. I will try this tonight. Hopefully it is just some air in the line.

    Last night i checked the reservoir again and it was just below the minimum requirement. I topped off the resevoir and started to shift like new again. Woohoo!

    This morning when i went to work i was able to shift, but was back to having difficulty. I can get from one gear to the next but takes a second to "lock in", and reverse grinds, so i have to turn it off and shift into reverse first.

    I assumed that there would be an obvious leak in the line when i checked the master upon arrival at work, but the fluid level hadn't gone down at all. This makes me think that the master or the slave are not functioning properly....
     
  17. fred heath

    fred heath Enthusiast

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    Why take a chance. Flush the line. And be sure to use “new” brake fluid. By new, I mean fresh off the shelf, unopened. Brake fluid absorbs moisture which can contaminate it. That old bottle you’ve had kicking around the garage could be bad. The entire process should take about 15 minutes.
     
  18. Owen Branigan

    Owen Branigan Newbie

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    Yeah, that's my plan. Will post an update on this thread once new fluid runs through the veins of my clutch.
     

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