this mod will eliminate ANY movement from the tranny and has a built in limiter if the mount fails. ideal for high HP/torque/traction builds or just hard driving. YOU WILL FEEL MORE VIBRATION IN YOUR A$$, but its $30, very livable and 100% reversible. parts needed: 1 stock mount any condition 1 energy suspension chevy TH350 tranny mount pt#3-1108G http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1108g/overview/ 2 22r eng mount bolt/nut/washers x4 or a 14mm bolt head equivalent tools needed: 12,14mm wrench and sockets hack saw drill with wire wheel and 7/16 bit metal hand file or grinder 1 beer this "should fit" or work with any 2wd R series motor yota from 1974-95 auto or manual. also any W or A series tranny and maybe others or anything that has a OEM mount that looks like this baseline shots new (see warning at bottom) vs 87 OEM now the fun part, cut it apart. blamo highly recommend cleaning it inside a garbage can with a wire wheel and... i need a bigger vice, dont try to straighten the plate it warps the threads at first i was all like... but then i was all like this should be easier... you want the bracket that bolts to the tranny, cut it as flush as possible and grind it so the flat part sits flush to the top of the mount in the center hole. put some holes in the xmem and it turns out the bolt that came with the mount kit perfectly fits the stock mount bolt hole. did have to take off about1/16 off the new bolt to make it clear the tranny. the way it is pictured above, i built it to be the same height when bolted to the xmem as the stock one unloaded, i didnt take into account that a brand new (or at least the POS mount i bought) sags about the same distance as the OG mount. so in that picture i have a .25in plate to add height and "nut spacers" on the bolts to make up for the bend on the xmem. the plate that comes with the new mount IS a preload plate. if you install that plate you will get serious vibrations. without the preload plate the vibration increase is only about 25% of usingthe same mount as 1 motor mount. for a final install i drilled a hole in the .25in plate then cut in half across the hole and used as spacers just where it bolts to the xmem with NO preload plate to make up for the bend in the xmem. there is a hole in the xmem for the stock mount retainer bolt, the hole acts as a handy preload inhibitor for the mount. as setup i have zero movement from the shifter, and very minor vibration at low revs. will update with a pic of the current setup when my new new oem mount comes in and i take it apart again. and as a public service announcement; do not buy this oem replacement mount! i got 2 different ones and they are bending them wrong at the factory, trying to bolt this up would of stripped the threads on the tranny. you can see how out of whack it is in the crappy pics above
it would actually be more work to fab up a solid mount. this is essentially 1 cut and 2 holes, the rest bolts up. plus the vibration increase from a solid mount would suck for anybody not doing a full race build and maybe tear the threads out of the tranny unless the motor was solid mounted as well. this is a "semi solid" mount, much much stiffer then the stock one and limits movement even at complete mount failure to .5in.
Ill have to inspect my setup when I do the carrier bearing. Might have to copy you. It makes more sense than when I first read it all
cant edit the original post, so here is version 1.0 this mod will eliminate ANY movement from the tranny and has a built in limiter if the mount fails. ideal for high HP/torque/traction builds or just hard driving. YOU WILL FEEL MORE VIBRATION IN YOUR A$$, but its $30, very livable and 100% reversible. parts needed: 1 stock mount any condition 1 energy suspension chevy TH350 tranny mount pt#3-1108G http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-3-1108g/overview/ 2 22r eng mount bolt/nut/washers x4 or a 14mm bolt head equivalent tools needed: 12,14mm wrench and sockets hack saw drill with wire wheel and 7/16 bit metal hand file or grinder 1 beer this "should fit" or work with any 2wd R series motor yota from 1974-95 auto or manual. also any W or A series tranny and maybe others or anything that has a OEM mount that looks like this baseline shots new (see warning at bottom) vs 87 OEM now the fun part, cut it apart. blamo highly recommend cleaning it inside a garbage can with a wire wheel and... i need a bigger vice, dont try to straighten the plate it warps the threads at first i was all like... but then i was all like this should be easier... you want the bracket that bolts to the tranny, cut it as flush as possible and grind it so the flat part sits flush to the top of the mount in the center hole. put some holes in the xmem and it turns out the bolt that came with the mount kit perfectly fits the stock mount bolt hole. did have to take off about 1/16 off the new bolt to make it clear the tranny. the way it is pictured above, i built it to be the same height when bolted to the xmem as the stock one unloaded, i didnt take into account that a brand new (or at least the POS mount i bought) sags about the same distance as the OG mount. so in that picture i have a .25in plate to add height and "nut spacers" on the bolts to make up for the bend on the xmem. the plate that comes with the new mount IS a preload plate. if you install that plate you will get serious vibrations. without the preload plate the vibration increase is only about 25% of using the same mount as 1 motor mount. for a final install i drilled a hole in the .25in plate then cut in half across the hole and used as spacers just where it bolts to the xmem with NO preload plate to make up for the bend in the xmem. there is a hole in the xmem for the stock mount retainer bolt, the hole acts as a handy preload inhibitor for the mount. as setup i have zero movement from the shifter, and very minor vibration at low revs. stock vs bomb proof and as a public service announcement; do not buy this oem replacement mount! i got 2 different ones and they are bending them wrong at the factory, trying to bolt this up would of stripped the threads on the tranny. you can see how out of whack it is in the crappy pics above
I think I finally fully understand all of this. Took some super zooming of the pics to figure it out. Wonderful job on all the text writeup. If I saw this on my computer not my phone I probably would have understood it the first time lol. So basically, cut the top most part of the stock metal off and bolt it to a Chevy mount? Seems simple enough.
And that's a car crossmember isn't it? Torsion trucks aren't removable and the hilux has 6 end bolts per side. Knowing you it's celica crap lol.
I knew the mount was the same. The W52 I got from 77yoter a few years ago had a mount, and i just used it. I should look at it today when i drop my oil. If its anything like the rest of the trans, its held together with duct tape and faith