I haven't had a lowered toy. since I was in high school about 20 years ago. I just picked up a 93 std. I want to have it as low as posable with out to much cutting or bagging it. I was thinking of getting some spindles or are lower arms better? Not sure about static in the back. Do I remove the middle leaf and 4" block it or is that to much? Please help. Thanks...
You're stoked...you have the option of lower DJM drop front arms, torsions, spindles and last the balljoint flip. In back you can do some Belltech drop leafs and I have great steel blocks of any height and taper plus I'm within driving range for you to come let me do a c-notch for you.
your options are near limitless on what you can do to get it staticly dropped low...... you may want to take a peek at my truck thread as well as a 94 i helped drop on a VERY LOW FUND strict budget.... my 86.... http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1580&page=3 macrib's 94.... http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1965 cool thing about these trucks is you can go low a little at a time to gauge your comfort level on the drop. up front, you can drop it via easing the torsion bars down that can net you allot of drop but your ride quality may suffer if you go too low. you can do a balljoint flip to get a 1" drop out of your front end, and ease the torsions a bit to gain another 2 inches. you can do 2" belltech spindles and still retain your exact same ride you hvae now, do a bj flip and ease the torsions some and you will get roughly 4 inch drop...... or you can do 2" belltech spindles, 3" DJM lower control arms, and be at 5" drop up front and still retain a factory ride...... or go all out like i did with spindles, arms, bj flip, and torsion adjustment to net somewhere around 7' drop if not more..... as for the rear, you can do any size block you want although i would not recomend going any bigger than a 4" block...... you can do 3" belltech leafs wich will get you a nicer ride than blocks.... or you can do a combination of leafs and blocks like i did and get anywhere up to 8 inches of drop now..... with that said about the rear.... you will at most comfortable be able to ride with a 4" inch drop without hitting the frame and still have enough travel to be comfortable. any lower than 5 inches and i would seriously consider getting the frame notched to allow more room for the suspension to compress through. i would definately hit up Beefed Taco for a good, afordable, quality built notch. here is what it all boils down to......... how low do you want to go and what size wheels are you looking to run
I would like to run some stock 14 for now. I'm looking for some 18" mark 8 wheels, and want get get this thing as low as posable. Ball joint flip? Do you flip up the top ball joint? I'll start with spindles, flip the b/j, and roll down the torsion bars in the front. I need some blocks and a notch kit for the rear. Thanks for your time.
you flip the lower ball joint as well to the top of the arm....... thats what gives you the lower stance.... pretty easy to do. take the balljoint and place it on top of the arm. use 3 washers to space the balljoint from the arm since there is a casting that wont clear the arm. the washers will be enough to clear the casting once you bolt it down. there is also that little 2 nut bracket that has a flat piece braced across that holds the strut arm bolts........ you'll need to flip it upside down and will go in the same place that it came off from. just needs to be fliped so it clears the balljoint now that it sits on top of the arm....
Yeah I didn't have to do that either, but it was close to not clearing the spot welds on the round tubes that the strut rod bolts go through on the lower control arm, maybe some people have clearance issues there? It probably wouldn't hurt to have the washers in there. Hell, that's like a bonus 1/16th inch of drop!
Right, the upper and lower ball joints both need to be unbolted and bolted back on on the top of the control arm. You are not actually flipping anything. Technically it is really more of a "ball joint relocation".
exactly. they dont aim them a new way, they take them from below the arm to above it. still aiming the same way. it has the same effect as a drop spindle by leaving arm geometry as it was. if you stick with 14s i advise a 195/65/14 tire. you can get them really cheap new. like, less than 250 new mounted and balanced. maybe ever under 200 if you catch a sale. they give more clearance to the fender and they look better. plus it drops it a little.
Yeah, sure, you can. You will need that notch though. You will get about 2" of drop removing the middle leaf I think. Are you already running trimmed or removed bumpstops? If you still have stock bumpstops and 4" blocks, I wouldn't be surprised if pulling the middle leaf leaves you sitting on the bumpstops. Just save everything from your springpacks and you can put them back together if you don't like the performance with the middle leaf removed.
i actually prefer the ride from when i pulled my middle leaf. it was so soft it was always hitting the overload anyways. so now it rides on the overload and stiffened up a bit. i have 4-1/2" blocks and the pulled leaf. a notch is deffinately in order at that point.
