Well guys guess I'll be starting a thread. I just recently traded my clapped out Honda Accord for a 78 hilux. Follow along with me as I build the mini truck I've always wanted.

 

What I know about the truck. 20r unknown miles. Lowered on blocks in the rear, cut coils in the front. Painted flat black originally orange. Sitting on s2000 wheels with wheel spacers. Seems to be fairly rust free for a 78. Cab floors and rockers are solid. Needs new doors.
Here's more pictures of it

 

Welp that didn't last long .... Zero compression on cylinder number one..... Shoot
Pulled the head and I've got a boogered valve. Guess it could be worse atleast it's not a cooked piston.
I'm having trouble finding a replacement valve. Any one have any ideas on where to find one? Toyota dealer and local parts stores are no help.
Going to lap the valves and install new seals while I have the head off.
No plan to resurface as of now, used a straight edge and it's flat, didn't over heat so I think I'm gonna roll the dice
How do I shrink the file size so I can post pictures?

 

Welcome aboard,nice ride
LC Engineering would be a good call, Toyota engine expects!

 

Welcome! Good luck with the project!

I've been doing what someone recommended -- email the pic to myself to change the file size, then use those.

 

Here's the damage. You can see the damaged valve from cylinder number one. No wonder I got zero compression.
Head is now stripped, salvageable valves are soaking in ATF, then will be cleaned, lapped and reinstalled.

 

I almost got that very truck awhile back.You close to Monroe area?

 

I traded a guy out of Aberdeen for it. Should have checked it out a little better before I picked it up lol. Forgot my compression tester when I went to look at it. A simple compression check would have found that bad valve. Was running rough but I figured it was carb tuning. Oh well, live and learn lol.

 

Actually, it may turn out that it was a good thing you forgot your tester. If you had tested it, you wouldn't have bought it. Now, after a few fixes you'll have a fun ride that you can also be proud of for fixing it.

 

I definitely wouldn't have gotten it! A traded a 96 Honda Accord with 2ook something miles for it.

I'm hoping this valve replacement is fairly easy. I am curious how it broke, looks like it's chipped not burnt. Doesn't look bent tho, and no kiss marks on the piston so I think timing is ok.

I wanted to strip back to the orange but it was sanded underneath. So I think I will go for a faux patina look. And I have to change the wheels I hate them. Thinking steelies it jeep Cherokee snow flakes.

 

Well it's going back together. Most of the time has been waiting on parts.
Got the bad valve swapped out. Installed new valve stem seals on all valves
Lapped all valves/seats.
Cleaned and all put back together.
Quickly checked compression on the dead cylinder and it has some... About 100. But that's cold with a weak battery and questionable starter. It's an improvement!

 

Picked up a used 32/36 dgv. Waiting on the adapter kit from lce.
Can't wait to tune and time this bad boy.

 

Holy hell dude! Luckily its only a valve and not the rings!

 

Well who knows how good the rings are.... They might not be great either. But atleast it fires on all cylinders now.

 

I like your outlook lol

 

Still waiting on my carb parts to show up from lce. In the mean time I "fixed" the rusted out back wall of my bed. Can't see it from my house ....

I'm scratching my head on the paint. I always wanted a mini truck with patina , but some body painted mine flat black. I thought I could strip it back to the original orange paint, but come to find out it was sanded pretty good underneath. So now thinking about options. Roll on Rust-Oleum, paint gun Rust-Oleum. Solid or go for the sanded patina look. All I know is I hate the black. I'm a rat rod miss matched panel kind of guy.

 

Still waiting on parts. Lce is killing me. 10 days and it hasn't even shipped. So I'm fiddling around with paint schemes on an old hood. Here's the colors I was considering. Rattle can over rolled on Rust-Oleum black then brown. Definitely leaning towards the blue. Got that classic truck color. Also playing around with door logos. It will say bird dog garage on the door with a gsp.

And I picture of one of my other rigs getting the family Christmas tree

 

Well shoot I've got milk shake. I ran the truck for about 15 minutes in the driveway while I did some carburetor tuning, did a radiator flush and pressure washed the engine. I am getting a rattle noise from the front of the engine, thought it might be valve mis adjustment, pulled the valve cover and bam, water in the oil....
It's not a full frothy milk shake but there is definitely water in the oil. I drained all the oil and am going to refill and test again. I have a few longshot hopes...

1. During pressure washing water got into the engine via the valve cover gasket. I do remember having to tighten it around the time of pressure washing because it was leaking.
2. There was left over coolant that seeped past the rings and into the crank case during head removal. ( I did change the oil after and don't remember seeing anything abnormal)

Any ideas guys?

 

Milk shake.

 

On head gasket. Did you blow out with compressed air all the threaded head bolt holes before attaching the head? A little water at the bottom can throw off your torque wench setting.
Another common “weak” area is the front bolt under the camshaft gear. I believe is a 14mm head. This is threaded into the front “aluminum “ timing chain cover. If you over tightened this bolt and strip the threads (easy to do) it could allow coolant to contaminate the oil via the timing chain. It’s probably the weakest link in doing a head gasket replacement on the 20R engine.
Start with flush and new fluids first. If that don’t work you’re probably going to be pulling the head to find the leak.