Well looking into the outlaw cam on the description the pro valve guides are recommended. Trying to get those now. Mocked up the 20r head with the 4 barrel intake. Also busted open the pan. Was told by the guy its oem spec. The rods are not the h beam like I was thinking. But oh well. And I'm pretty sure my boss read the pistons wrong. It's just a half mil over. Cleaned up the block as well. I'm almost think of doing the oldschool Ted color scheme but I might just do red. Not sure yet. Oh and definitely a half ass rebuild as far as some things. Missing trying cover bolts. Overspray on the timing chain. And also the shiny links on the chain didnt line up with anything at top dead center like I thought they should.

 

Oh heres my fuck up for the day. I go to pull the oil pan and run into trouble. I didnt flip the motor because I couldn't center the weight and was by myself. I pull bolts. One side comes lose. I look over the bolts and there are 2 studs I think are messing it up. I get stud half way out then notice the bolt hold me up was right next to it. Going to have to pull my old pan because that one isnt good anymore.

 

Answer: Not if the crank came off of an Automatic engine!!

https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...e-Automatic-Transmission/_/P-0900c1528007cbca

https://chadwards.wordpress.com/2010/02/24/toyota-automatic-transmission-service-diagrams/

The flex plate would attach to the crankshaft end of the engine, but no shaft to guide into the crank is required, so no need for a pilot bearing...Great crank to use as a replacement.

 

So the plug was probably on the crank after he assembled it? I think we was a wheeler so he probably did have an auto.

 

That being said, I would not trust the words he used telling of modifications that can not be proven. Check and recheck all of the specifications before your wallet gets too deep into your budget build.

However, Nice Intake manifold!!

 

I dont think he really knew what he had. I asked him if he had stock guides after finding out about the cam. He said yeah. But from what I can see they are bronze. I haven't seen any stock bronze. Also not having duel valve springs was weird after hearing about the cam. It does have a part number on the right spot and the lobes are pretty big. I sent the number over to lce for confirmation.

 

Looked up the number and it came back as the pro torquer. Makes more sense now. Even though the outlaw would be dope. I dont think I have to worrie about about the guides. One day though. The parts to send the head off the the machinist will be here tomorrow. Shouldn't be to long before the big moves happen. I do have to make a move on a carb soon.

 

So I can add to the lce kind of sucks argument. Not impressive packaging at all. Most of the parts are in a plastic bag. Valves where just place on top of everything. Each oil had it's own sealed bag with oil so that was good. No spec sheet or anything for them. The springs had there own box shrink wrapped and a spec sheet. The other little parts where in a box and baged. Most had a part number sticker printed. Few just had sharpie that was rubbing off already. But the biggest thing was they had the weber adapter plate and gasket. It was just a few buck more then just the gasket. So I got it and it was in a small bag and was bending the gasket. Oh and the gasket has a nick in it.

Oh and the dnj headbolts fulfilled by yotashop was great. The clutch and flywheel kit from unknown great.

 

Oh found dudes review of the cam. From April of last year or so. Gives me an idea when the build could of been done. Said truck pulls hard. Would buy again.

 

Been looking to sell the pro torquer cam and I got a bite. Might have it sold as soon as Thursday for 175. Was told from lce the dual valve springs are not recommend for that cam so I'm not really looking to use it.

 

Got the cam sold. Did have a buyer lined up in Canada but this guy wanted it more. Got to order a new one now.

Got a quote from Allstate for 224.67 min down 79.37 a month for 6 months. I didnt put in my vin but he was saying more then likely they could insure it. Oh and that's with no prior insurance before and a recently licensed driver. Liability with uninsured motorist and whatever the basic coverage is. Got another one from the general online for about 1200 for a year. But for some reason they didnt have a hilux or pickup in the drop down so I used a super unicorn the 1973 t100.

 

I had to go in to the AAA office to set mine up. I think i pay like $9 a month for full coverage. They had to pull out one of the old insurance books

 

Damn really. I didnt even know they had issuance. I go to the office down the street from me then. I already planned on getting there roadside assistance.

 

Yea man just get it all with them.

 

I got a quote for $624 at $104.33 a month for 6 months from triple A. Basic coverage up to 100k damage liability. That's with the $69 dollar annual membership fee you must have.

Full coverage for 10 bucks a month is insane. If they valve the truck at 3k it would take 25 years for them to make the money to pay for the truck.

 

They valued it at 5k. It is a multi-car policy tho, shouldve mentioned that

 

Decided to stop by the Toyota dealership to see if they had a head gasket for the 20r. From what I read online from Toyota is best. I tell the guy I have a 20r swapped in a rig. He goes excuse me for asking but what's the 20r come in? I tell him 75 and up pickup and celica. He said its discontinued and showed me the diagram of the motor. Pretty sure he pulled up the 18r. Looks like a pushrod motor. Anyways I was pretty annoyed and left without looking into it more.

So what I read from my research for the hybrid build everyone says to use a 22r head gasket. But on lce they say there gaskets fit 20r/22r/re. So wouldn't my gasket I got with my 22r motor work on my 20r?

Spending alot of time researching the hybrid build and might need to gather some more parts. There a very good chance I will need to machine valve reliefs for clearance considering my cam and valve size. Or buy new pistons. So really thinking it would be best to get the old motor back up and running for the time being.

 

I always thought it was the same gasket.

My understanding is that 20r/22r/re are pretty much the same block/head external dimensions- just with different internal setups like cylinder bores, port and valve stuff, etc — which is why you can interchange parts between them all. I believe even the Tacoma 2/3rz are were branched off the R-series block, hence the “R” in the name, even though they’re completely different

 

This is an 20R:
http://www.retrojdm.com/Scans/Toyota/Misc/Service Manuals/20R Engine/PDF/03 - Engine Service.pdf

This is for a 22R:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~stepho/manuals/Toyota/engine 22R/03 engine service.pdf

I believe the gaskets are the same, Except the bore size being larger for the 22R, but check the repair etc...

 

Went ahead with the job. Didnt totally clear up the smoke. It was better but not gone. I picked up some copper spray but decided against it. Maybe I should of done it. Anyway took some pics of the differences.