I am looking to get these and want to make sure they will work. Anyone got these on already? Any other place to get the right ones let me know. BELLTECH 2° Taper 3" LOWERING BLOCKS W/U-BOLTS #6202 | eBay
If you want a more solid and angle block then hit up beeftaco. He makes some outstanding blocks. The best in my opion. He can make any size you need. Heres one of his threads.... http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/parts-accessories-28/custom-steel-beefed-blocks-1639/
Thanks James. Aluminum blocks are definitely a no no. This really isn't a area to cheap out on. A block doesn't need a taper until you reach the 4" and beyond mark. You'd use a tapered 3" block if you were also using drop leaf springs with them. I'm merely giving some tips I've learned over the last few years, the Belltech kit will work fine for you as long as you torque the nuts to 55ft lbs and check them often. As time goes by you'll probably want to step up to a better kit, as most leaf perches welded on the axle are small and don't fit the block correctly (see 4th pic below) with the exception of some 90's trucks that have wider perches than others. 3 things to stay away from with cheap aftermarket block kits...aluminum, nylock nuts, and lock washers.
If the block is underneath the axle then why would an aluminum one be an issue? Also what is the reason for needing the pitch? I have 3 inch blocks on my s10 and they don't have an angle?
The pitch (or taper/angle) is to correct the pinion angle on the rear axle to keep the u-joints in the range they should be running in so you don't get driveline vibrations when altering your stock setup. (lowering or lifting) I've just heard so many stories on the forums in the past few years of guys that had their alumin blocks fail. Some have broke while simply tightening them up, that's pretty bad. There are some aluminum blocks that are better than others....the worst....low end kits like at Pep-Boys for $32. The cheapest stuff imaginable, I'm surprised they're legal. Some aluminum blocks have a steel pin pressed in, and the walls (hollow blocks) are a bit thicker than the super cheapies. I think we have all started out with aluminum, I know I did, but realized steel is a better way to go. Which brings me to another point..aside from cast steel blocks weighing about as much as the anchor on the Titanic, they've also been known to fail. (5th pic in my post above and copied a year ago from a member on here) This is why spring over, or spring under, I'll definitely be staying far away from aluminum when it comes to drive train parts. I saved 13lbs of unsprung weight by swapping in my blocks and getting the Fabtech's out. And at the same time, pulled my axle back the amount it was shoved in due to having 7" of rear drop (8"-9" when loaded) by locating the hole 1/4" forward from center and the pin 1/4" back. This pulled the axle back 1/2". I was getting a thud when loaded and thought i was bottoming on the bumps, when it was actually the drive shaft slamming the trans. Problem solved.
from above post by beefedtaco: The pitch (or taper/angle) is to correct the pinion angle on the rear axle to keep the u-joints in the range they should be running in so you don't get driveline vibrations when altering your stock setup. (lowering or lifting)
I know this guy's thread went pretty off topic, so to the OP, just get your block kit, it'll work fine, but make sure you tighten the ubolts nice and tight and check them after a week or two of driving.
