I have just acquired my first Toyota.
1994 PU, sb, reg. cab, 2wd, 22RE, 195,000 miles.
The previous owner ran it hot due to a clogged radiator.
Water is getting into the oil.
Yesterday I spent a couple hours toward removing the head.
Although most of my experince has been with pre computer controlled vehicles, I'm 70 years old and am a retired automotive mechanic so I'm not unfamilier with automotive repairs.

I won't get a chance to work on it again until one day next week.
I got everything disconnected from both sides of the head and am ready to remove the head bolts.
Man! What a hassle that was.
I would certainly appreciate any advice and/or short cuts any of you can offer.
thanks.

 

I hope it's just the gasket and head resurface.
If not, I hope it's just a cracked head.
If it's a cracked block, I'm still okay, I got it cheap enough to be able to spend a few bucks on it.

 

Welcome

Sense your experienced .. The details are pretty much the same don't forget the head bolt under the timing chain gear it hides out in a little puddle of oil

This is pretty common r series motors don't like being over heated Chance are you just in for a headgasket and maybe deck the head if it needs it . Highly doubt you have a cracked block there tuff and I've never seen one crack .. Cracked head can happen but give a good cleaning and inspect the combustion chambers specially in between the valves ... Other than that chase or clean the head bolt threads and there bolt holes. I prefer oem gaskets but some are equally comparable some also remove the egr plate on the back of the head and put it back on once the head is back in place .. Other than that keep keep the mating surfaces bone dry and clean .. Good to go

 

Thanks for the quick reply.
I have the manual, so I know about front cover bolt.
What gave me the most trouble was the water hard lines coming around the rear of the engine to the bottom of the intake.
I just unbolted the intake from the head and pulled it away from the head and held it in place with a bungie.
Things are sure tight under that intake. Am I going to have any problems getting those water lines reattached?

 

Yea there is limited space and awkward positions you have to put your self in on these trucks more so with the 22re and its fuel injection and vacum hose and emissions stuff ....a little time and a few curse words and they'll go back in .

 

Yeah, but since I'm so old and my skin is thin and has lost it's elasticity I scratch and bruise easily. You should see my hands and arms after that 2 hour bout with it yesterday. I look like I've been fighting with a wildcat.

 

I was really hoping I could find a thread about the head R&R. I tried the search function but couldn't find anything. Can someone point me in the right direction?

 

As I understand it, these engines aren't really that hard to pull. Maybe someone can comment on the pro's and con's of pulling the engine to do certain tasks.

In my case, I'll be pulling my spare engine out of my parts truck at some point and doing all these kind of preventative repairs with it fully exposed on all sides. Or maybe I'll pull the body off the frame.

 

Yes, the engines are probably fairly easy to pull but I don't think it's necessary to pull the engine to change a head gasket.

 

Another question.
When I remove the cam gear what's the best way to keep the chain from removing itself from the crank gear?

 

There's two ways you can do that one is to zip tie the chain to the gear so it doesn't move get either a bungi cord or some decent string .. Brick layer or property zone string works well and tie it around the gear and then have some one hold it tought while you remove the head a two handed dance to get the string out of the head then just tie it to the hood catch loop .......the way I do it is just zip tie the gear and chain and let it rest down in the timing cover never had one skip a tooth or fall of .and I have had my head of about six times in one year

 

just remove the cam gear and wire the chain up to the hood with either a mechanics Wire or bungee cord

 

depending on how bad the front cover is leaking you may just want to remove the oil pan and the front cover to make head removal and chain access easier

 

I use the zip tie to cam gear method. I usually use 3. Make sure to leave the ends on them so they are easy to spot when you put it back together.

 

I have just found out hat I can leave the cam gear in the chain and pull the head over it.
I was under the assumption that the gear wouldn't fit down through the head. Y'all know what you get when one assumes.

 

Front cover isn't leaking. Gears, chain and followers were changed 35,000 miles ago.
Thanks for the reply. I love this forum.

 

Thanks Lee. That's the way I'm going to do it.

 

Got my head off yesterday. It appears that the head gasket is the only problem. That's great news to me. In a day or so I'll take the head to the automotive machine shop for resurfacing.
Used 3 tie wraps to hold the cam gear onto the chain. It rests down between the chain guides.
Since this is my first Toyota forever to work on, I'm learning a lot.
Thanks for all the tips guys.

 

Took my head to the machine shop today. Took about 60 seconds on the belt sander. It did really need resurfacing, but it cleaned up real nice. Things are looking up.

 

Good deal . When reassembling make sure you back your rocker arm lash screws all the way out so they don't make contact with the valve springs So you can get proper torque on the head bolts then just reset your valve lash while the spark plugs are out so the motors easy to turn