Ok, this is another topic that gets beat to death. Alot depends on how you use your trucK, where you live and the local emissions requirements. My truck? Just for fun/shows. I also do not live in a county where emissions are required. I am aware of the massive debate on how removing the EGR can cause pinging and what not. Theres just as many that say it doesn't that say it does. I have not experienced this phenomenon, and I run 87 octane. That being said, here goes. Common question #1.."What vacuum lines can I eliminate?" Answer...Depends. If you want a bare bones engine(like mine) You can eliminate every single one of them but 1. I have 1 vacuum line on my engine..its for the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Question #2...whats that round thing by the intake that attaches to the intake? Andwer.... The ugly thing under the intake is the AS. Or "air suction". It works in conjunction with a vacuum line, the air filter box and the exhaust manifold to basically inject fresh air into the exhaust at certain throttle plate opening angles(exposing one of the vacuum ports on the throttle body to vacuum) to promote the further burning of residual combustible material in the exhaust...(clean emissions, see the trend?) Delete it. Take it off and trash it if you want to, even the stupid tube that goes around behind the head and is a pain in the ass when you remove the exhaust manifold. Take the plates its welded to and cut them off the tube and weld the holes closed. Or buy the LCE block off plates...your money, your call. If this is all you wanna delete, trace and cap the appropriate vacuum ports and your done, if not...keep reading. Question #3.."Can I remove the EGR?" Answer...Yes. I have already briefed you on the debate..pinging, performance, and mpg..whatever. I dont notice a single difference. I do know that my intake stays clean now. Take it off, and scrap it. Take the plastic hockey puck(modulator) its attached to via vacuum lines and throw it at a stray cat. It works on the same principle as the AS as far as how its actuated. The 4 ports on the Throttle body dont see vacuum all the time, only at certain throttle plate angles..dont believe me take your intake pipe off look in there at the top and work your butterfly with your hand. You can take the EGR and trace an outline on some 3/16" plate and make some blockoffs for where it attached to the head and the intake, or you can buy some from LCE...your money, your call. If thats all you want to eliminate, cap off the appropriate vacuum ports, and your done..if not, keep reading. Question #4....Whats left? Answer...Well, your stuck now with the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and the AC idle up vacuum lines..which both attach to VSVs, or vacuum switching valves,(those electric things on top of your valve cover) more on those in a minute. First, the FPR vacuum line. Follow along with me....as you get harder in the gas pedal, the more fuel pressure needed, right? So thats where the FPR comes in, from the factory its on a VSV. Basically at a certain throttle blade opening, maybe under hard acceleration,(high manifold vacuum) the FPR VSV is actuated, which lets vacuum hit the FPR and then the fuel rail pressure is elevated...I bypassed all that BS and put the vacuum line straight from the FPR to the triple vacuum adapter at the back of the upper intake. Read more on this on other forums, its where I got the idea, I have suffered no ill effects from this. Second, the AC idle up vacuum. This is easy. I dont have AC. So I removed it, but if you are like me, you learn better knowing how the system works before you go willy nilly cutting stuff. All cars while idling at a stop with the AC on, you notice the idle go up and down as the AC compressor kicks on and off right? This is what the AC VSV does. It lets air get past the throttle plate when the AC compressor comes on so it doesnt bog your engine down. You have to live with this if you want AC...me? Im bodied and dont have AC...so I removed it, all of it. This leaves you with the one vacuum line, from the FPR to the triple vacuum adapter. The picture Im gonna post in a minute is my engine, with all the ports capped. I have since removed the ports and welded the holes up on the throttle body for the ultimate smooth look. Now what about the VSVs? The electric solenoids under there. Sell em on ebay. Throw them at the neighbors dog. Dont need em. Now you have harness pigtails...cut em..keep em though, you never know who may need it (KERTWOOD?) LOL. This show season I just had the wires cut and taped and hidden. I have since pulled the entire harness and removed the conduit and tape and taken the whole wire out and depinned it from the connectors...makes the harness a smaller diameter and you can clean your engine bay up nicely. While you have the harness out, pull a schematic and using a multimeter set to continuity, just check each wire on your harness connectors, they call this "pinning out" and you can make sure none of the existing wires have any breaks or anything. My multimeter has an audible setting, where when it detects continuity it sounds like a cricket stuck on chirp..all mine checked out nicely. Now when I put the engine back in I wont be freaked out about "did I remove the right wire? Plus youll learn more about your engine. This is really easy..you can go even further too...I removed my cold start injector and cut the boss off the intake and it will be welded closed...I only drive my truck in the summer, and it wasnt even plugged up this year and my engine hits on the first key turn... Oh yeah. Someone reminded me about the charcoal canister. It's there to absorb the vapors from the tank and they get released into the engine at various times of operation. Some people keep it. Some dont. I'm sure you guessed that I didnt. It's gone. My tank vents to the atmosphere. Cue the global warming theorists.....same story though. It can go. No ill effects. I hope you learned something!! Heres the pics!