the 79 i just bought has a little issue. the previous owner rerouted all the vacuum lines using a really good diagram, and they all seem good. the truck starts right up but after idling maybe 15-20 seconds it starts to cut out and die. by rapidly pumping the pedal it stays running. also when rapidly pumping it it sounds like it wants to die then it picks up. any ideas?

i have a weber 32/36 here i plan on putting on, but i want to drive it home before i do the swap. thanks in advance!

 

im thinking maybe the gas filter

 

guess i should have added, its got new

rotor & cap
plugs
wires
fuel filter
several oem sensors related to vacuum system

 

is the weber a direct bolt on to the stock manifold, or does it need an adapter? i checked www.redlineweber.com and can't find a part number for an adapter.

 

wow almost the complete system that sparx up.....mmmm maybe the fuel pump or the fuel pump cables.....ive been hearing about a lot of ppl that ther cars wouldnt start and it was that the positive was loose and wouldnt make contact....sumthin that ppl have mistakinly wasted money on buying a new pump wen it was just simply th connection....with an integra i had, it started dying out on me, at first after long periods of time, and then it went shortening until it got to the point i couldnt at half way down the block....called the mechanic and found out it was the distributor....it was going bad so once it started heating up it would shut off

 

i've heard a lot of civic/integra owners having problems with their dizzies. i'm wondering if its flooding, but it starts sooooo good. he said it ran well before he re routed the vac lines.....

 

it cant be flooded....other wise it wouldnt sustain wen u pump the gas rapidly.....it would die quicker....wow this is a hard 1

 

there is a AA battery sized thing on the pass side of the carb behind the choke.


should have a hot w/key on wire to it.


test it with a jumper it should "click" when power is applied.




idle cut solinoid



if its bad you will get the same symptom. most times i find the ground is bad, so i run a new dedicated one.

 

man i was thinking you were still camping...... glad you came on tonight!

 

ya came back a day early, 6 days with out running water is a long time.


especially after field changing 2 birfields...




not gonna hijack, but new thread tomorrow or something after i make a vid.





and the adapter that you get for a 22r (2 piece) weber conversion should have holes for the 20r as well. they would be the smaller bolt pattern on the bottom plate.

 

Mine came with everything and bolted right up on my 20r

 

the weber i got was pulled from a d-50 in the boneyard so i only got the carb. but for $20 i was happy.

 

Ok help me out here I just got that 20r for $100... I dont have a carb. I'm a newbie when it comes to this but which is the one that will make my 20r scream?

 

weber or dual side drafts

 

the weber 32/36, but not sure if its legal in ca.

 

there is a cali smog legal version, comes with the sticker n everything.




and the 2 piece adapter is very cheap( edit: it used to be cheap, but now its gone up over 400%)

this is the better adapter tho, and it is still cheap, just might lift the carb up too high and hit the hood. works great in my 80 4x4

http://race-mart.storesecured.com/items/products/trans-dapt-performance-products/TDP2120-detail.htm

 

i'm thinkin about fabbing up a low profile one.

 

Heres the peice you need, these are the same guys I use and Ive never had any problems with their stuff, got both my carbs thru them and check out the feedback ( 100% ) anywho here it is . . . http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Weber-Carb-Adapter-Linkage-kit-Toyota-20R-and-22R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33550QQihZ014QQitemZ330332047886QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

ya thats the part i was looking for, it only cost $29 from amazon last year

now they want $80 for it



i have seen people mod the intake to bolt a weber on directly, but not for the faint of heart.

 

for that stock carb, it could be that one side isnt spraying fuel. try looking down it. my 78 did that when i bought it. i tie wired the choke shut. half the fuel, half the fuel. ran that way but had like half of nothing for power. haha. got it home. barely. but that might be something to check. there are 2 common webers, the 32/36 which is more mild and the 38/38 which is more for a modified setup. both work well ive heard, i wish i had a 38/38 now. oh well.

and if you want to make a nice improvement when you do the carb adapter, cut out the bar between the 2 holes the stock carb lined up to. i have pictures if that doesnt make sence. i did it down the road on a ported 77 non-egr manifold and noticed a nice boost in throttle responce and mid range. im ready to cut off the choke horn now, and rejet the carb. and make a double filter stack to help get some air into that carb.