1977 project reliable..

Discussion in '1976-1983 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by blue77, Sep 19, 2010.

  1. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    Well im finnally starting a build thread.. My first one ever!!:runaway:

    The truck when i bought it..
    [​IMG]

    Heres the sweet shift boot i rigged from a 69 Kaiser Jeep..
    [​IMG]

    This is when i was doing the exhaust manifold holes. The PO tried using way bigger bolts when he lost 1...:brickknock:
    [​IMG]

    and back together..
    [​IMG]


    So far ive been driving it m-f to work, which is about 40min round trip at 30-50+. also running down to Fort Worden for some fishing. Its been doing good. Havent done a whole lotta work to it. Put in a Jvc cassette player:evil:.

    Now ive bought a weber 38 carb. Seems as if i can handle installing it. The only problem im having is understanding the "bench assembly" shown here
    [​IMG]
    I dont think i have all those.

    Heres the 38
    [​IMG]

    This is what my stock linkage area looks like.. Also notice its rubbing that coolant(?) hose.
    [​IMG]

    an another
    [​IMG]

    Does anyone know of a good writeup w/pics on installing the 38. The instructions that came with it suck..

    Anyways thats all for today. Maybe tommorow i'll take some exterior/interior pics. Also lmk if the pics are too big.
     
  2. andysmiley17

    andysmiley17 Veteran

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    looks like a sweet truck, what are the plans for it?
     
  3. ShoNuff

    ShoNuff Toyotaholic

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    the pic in the instructions is for a 32/36 lol.



    basically you want to take off this nut, and remove the throttle linkage bracket thingy on there. dont F with the gear stuff and keep track of what order the washers/linkage went on.
    [​IMG]


    then find the piece that looks like the stock U bracket, and install it in the correct orientation. pay attention to which way the stock linkage turns, you can put the bracket on 2 ways. important tip: dont over tighten the nut, just enuff to eliminate play no more. there should be a lock washer with bending tabs to hold the nut, dont use locktight.




    and that rad hose is ghetto. should only be 1 hose, and yes it should not be rubbing the throttle linkage. but that problem will be solved by the new hose you'll install to bypass the coolant choke of the OG carb.
     
  4. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    Haha that makes sense, i wondered if it was a 32. Yea i havent quite takin care of teh ghettoness. can you explain a little more about bypassing the coolant choke, is that what the hose that came with the new carb is for?
     
  5. ShoNuff

    ShoNuff Toyotaholic

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    when you remove the carb, disconnect the 2 coolant lines going to the carb at where ever they originate, not from the carb.


    then use a new single piece of heater hose to connect the 2 ports.


    usually there is a chunk of fuel line with the carb kits, not heater hose.
     
  6. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    Thanks for your help. Ive been working on it inbetween downpours:brickknock: Im almost wondering if this truck had a weber before. haha it has an electric fuel pump and a wire comes off of it and lines right up with the webers electric choke:shrug: . and if i disassemble the ghetto coolant line it reaches... i think..

    The rubber hose i think goes to the port on the valve cover. Says in the instructions and it doesnt say fuel line on the tubing itself.

    thanks again.

    EDIT; ok so it doesnt reach. but its maneuvered out the way. Now this IS a stupid question but so are the instructions... Where the ef does my fuel line go. I'll go get a pic of what i have so far and the rubber hose is fuel line i guess..
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2010
  7. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    sorry bout the cell pics.. digi died when i turned it on:eyecrazy:
     
  8. IronNam

    IronNam Grand Toyotaholic

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    at least you tossed something shiny in there :D
     
  9. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    ahahahaha hell yeah:lol:
     
  10. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    ok so heres what ive gathered so far.. this is borrowed from standardbyker.. haha been a long time since i used paint...

    [​IMG]

    on his which looks the same, his connection for the fuel line is on the left(white circle).. my connection is on the other side(orange circle)..

    How do i go about this? gotta get her runnin today :brickknock:

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
     
  11. The Crowing

    The Crowing Enthusiast

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    Hmmm... well I've got mine set up like Bykers. When I got my Weber it had 3 ports for the fuel inlet and it was on the wrong side to be functonal so I gust removed the nipple from the inlet on the carb and switched sides. And mine also didn't have that banjo bolt style connection so I would guess you just clip that off, slide it over the nipple and put a clamp on it.
     
  12. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    Yeah everyone ive looked at so far is set up like that. How'd you remove that nipple, i dont wanna ruin it.. and the other side looks like it stops so far in the hole. So i have to tap it out?
     
  13. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    Well look like its the corolla an its trusty 3tc, for work tommorow.... or today... :eyecrazy: .. Anyways after thinking about the situation and a couple hr of FM3 drifting, i have decided to use AN fitting and lines.. This way i can use the side of the carb thats already open and i can run the line next to the valve cover.:cool: Im guessing i need a couple angle fittings prolly 45*. What size line should i use, i was thinking 5/16? This is all pretty much new to me.
     
  14. The Crowing

    The Crowing Enthusiast

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    What ill do when I get a minute, like tomorrow morning if I can is take mine apart (its not too difficult) and take some pictures.
     
  15. B.Y.E.

    B.Y.E. Toyotaholic

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    They sell 45* and 90* elbows @ home depot that might work... I was going to tell you to turn the carb around but, I see you have the linkage type throttle VS a cable style...
     
  16. ShoNuff

    ShoNuff Toyotaholic

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    ya to fix that you need to take the whole lid off the carb. then drill and tap the other hole.



    maybe contact who every you bought that from and see if you can exchange it for the correct fuel inlet.


    elbow will work too.



    under the banjo bolt is a filter.
     
  17. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    K that would help, whenever u get a chance.. hell if u explain things better than most of the weber instructions thatd might be good... thanks.

    thats ok, gonna wait for some pics and just tap a new hole...

    yep gonna wait for some pics and go that route, wouldve be nice to do the elbow AN fitting and stainless line.. but that money is prolly spent better elsewhere this time of year. with a seasonal job, things definatly slow down..

    Thanks for the replies guys!!!!!!!!!:waytogo::waytogo::waytogo:
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2010
  18. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    Just an update.. i found the schematics for my 38 on redline weber. Ive now got the top plate off, and i ready to tap a new hole.. Only thing im not sure on is how the brass fitting thats in it now comes out? Doesnt seem like its thread... Do i have to take the bottom brass plug out?? :meemee:
     
  19. blue77

    blue77 Member

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    hmm im alittle confused here... I started this build thread to get help and show my progress.. started good i guess, but now its dropped off at my last question, seems like a simple one. since i havent gotten an answer i havent made progress other than throwin the ****er on and gettin the right fuel line hooked up. I still got that nipple in the other side and it has a peice of hose with a bolt on one end...... YAY!!!!! for more ghettoness.......

    the real confusing part is the fact that alot of memebers seemingly just post help mes wherever they want... even if its not the topic of the section, and they get more replies than me.. Maybe my yota isnt cool enough:shrug::verdict_in:
     
  20. project_DragTruck_v2.0

    project_DragTruck_v2.0 Veteran

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    dude, I'd love to help out, but I have zero experience with weber carbs. :shrug: This is going to change very soon, though, and I'll give any help I can after I get mine in and on.:)
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2010

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