1976 Toyota Hilux SR5

Discussion in '1976-1983 Build-Up/Project Threads' started by Danica, Sep 17, 2018.

  1. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    Hi all, just got myself a 1976 Toyota SR5. Everything is all stock from the engine to the suspension. I really want my truck to go lower and look slammed, but in need of some help and advise. Also, I am thinking of swapping out the oem carburetor with a Weber carb from LCE..any feedback on this? and possibly what I need to do with the engine (camshaft size, headers, etc.) in order for me to do this? I'm pretty new to this so please bare with me. Hope to hear some feedback's and advice.

    1.jpg 2.jpg 4.jpg 10.jpg
     
  2. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Looks like its a clean truck

    Be aware, if you have emmisions testing the weber may not pass a visual. Otherwise, swapping a Weber on is just that, no other mods necessary
     
  3. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Damn that is clean. Nice truck. I have lowered (slammed) my truck 5" in the rear and 3.5" in the front. You can read all about it here. The pic links are broken but I go into a lot of detail of parts and what to do. I also recommend changing all ball joints, pit arms and steering box while your in there. Mine had a lot of play in it when I bought it so I needed to change them.
     
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  4. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    Thank you..and no emissions testing from my area..what size weber would you recommend as a daily driver?
     
  5. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    Thank you!! I'll definitely read into your thread. You guys are awesome!
     
  6. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Most people do the 32/36. Got it on mine, seems fine
     
  7. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    I guess I'll make mine a 32/36. I've been watching a built on IG as well. Check out @orangeluxx he has an awesome 1975 built.
     
  8. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    do you have a part number? and what type of filter?
     
  9. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    Yea i follow him on IG. Clean truck
     
  10. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    By the way, which one would you recommend with the Weber carb.. i'm on LCE and there are two different kinds - electric choke and manual choke.
     
  11. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    For which?
     
  12. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    Weber carb for a 78 and air filter.
     
  13. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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  14. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    I got the one with the electric choke.
     
  15. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    What is the difference between the electrical and manual choke, beyond the obvious? Is an electrical choke better for performance or gas consumption?
     
  16. Perkolator

    Perkolator Toyotaholic

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    I'd say it's more of a convenience thing.
     
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  17. Danica

    Danica Newbie

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    So I've been reading on some others thread on what to do to lower our year and model trucks (1973-1978). So I've read and also watched a youtube video of either cutting the front springs 3 inches or getting a mighty max coils (while at it replace the shocks and ball joints) and for lowering the rear; remove bump stops, remove center leaf spring, and put 3 inch lowering blocks (while at it replace the shocks as well).

    What do you guys think? What have you read or done?
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2018
  18. nottoshabi

    nottoshabi Enthusiast

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    I have done the mighty max springs replaced shocks and ball joints. And in the rear I bought lowering leaf springs from summit racing also replaced shocks and removed bump stops. In the rear I did not want to remove a leaf spring because I want to be able to haul stuff with it.

    Here is the down fall with lowering the front with the mighty max springs and Ks shocks they will really lower the truck I have about 3 inch clearance and i'm hitting the frame also its very jumpy it is not a smooth ride at all. When I first lowered it I had the sway bar installed then I hit something and broke the bracket the holds the sway bar to the frame I had to take the sway bar out as I need to get the piece re-manufactured cause you can't buy that at the store any more. So the truck sits 2" lower then when I first lowered it. I live in LA and the roads are not so smooth here I have to travel at least 30mph to be able to absorb the bumps otherwise im hitting the frame. Going over speed humps/bumps i have to crawl other wise the truck jumps up as the A arms hit the frame and launch the truck in the air. Im finding out the combo of the mighty max and KS shock are to soft for this truck. Im going to add the sway bar and bump stops in and this will raise it 1.5 inches to be able to have more space for the shocks to absorb the bumps. Things are rattling apart in the truck the dash and instruments im constantly tightening and adjusting. Maybe the stock springs are stronger and can handle the weight a bit better and cutting a coil or 2 to lower it will be better absorbent then the mighty max springs.
     
  19. jetas

    jetas Grand Toyotaholic

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    So on mine i cut the stock springs(3 coils) new BJs and old shocks, no sway bar. Rear is a 3" block, 1" bolt on beefed block and pulled the middle leaf. Got about 2" of axle clearance and maybe 4" from the ground at the engine x member. Ride is terrible compared to the new cars we have
     
  20. KS.ID

    KS.ID Enthusiast

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    Could you shed some light on the Beefed Block? This is to maintain a proper angle on the drive shaft correct?
     

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