Hey guys I have a 18rc engine that's complete out of a 73 hilux. it has a bunch of 6 month old parts on it pretty much everything is new besides the actual engine. It runs!!. Clutch, flywheel, distributor cap,rotor,wires points condenser, rebuilt carb water pump. You get the point. I wanted to get 350$ for it open to offers located in merced,CA. pm for info. I also have a radiator for a 78 pickup a rebuilt 20r head ready to slap on fresh from machine shop 300 or b.o Can send pics by request. Email [email protected] Doing a 22r swap so no longer need thanks!!
How's it going I got a question I'm about to do a 22r swap on my 71 my question is where you getting your drive shaft from I've heard a few different options but trying to get some pointers ???
hey ctyota86, I am in desperate need of a radiator for my own 20R in a 1975 pickup. I know it was forever ago that you posted this thread, but I was just hoping I might get lucky. I sent you an email, so if you see this first, I guess you don't really have to reply to the email. Thanks in advance!
im wondering .. blew head gasket on 22r in my 87 .. got a loner 20r so can go through 22r proper n build it not just replace gasket .. but i realy do like idea of more fuel economy . will a smaller engine provide more miles per tank or is the decrease in power off set to such a degree that it actually would burn more just to do same running round.. or is there a trick or two a fellow can do to 22r to make go further on a gallon.. id like to go to the smallest motor that will fit - maybe
Back in the day... I have a 79 celica (20R) that I removed all the smog, installed a Doug Thorley header, removed cat, and installed 2" exhaust. Mileage went from about 20mpg to 23mpg. Let your conscience and smog laws be your guide. I think the biggest difference was the header. You can get a smog legal one from LC Engineering.
Keep that 20R head and build the 22R to fit. For an early 22R it's a bolt on, late 22R takes a bit of effort.
Yea theres only so much fuel economy you're guna get out of these engines. Build it to be reliable and just drive it
I have a stock 22RE with LC headers, 2 1/4" exhaust and an LC intake (filter and tube) and I get around 26mpg highway. If I drive like grandma I might get 28. In town that drops off to the teens. If you want better mileage and a decent boost in power do a Altezza 3SGE vvti swap. If you don't mind a touch less power a 7AFE will get the job done with mileage in the mid to high 30s. The 7AGE hybrid will get you, budget build, 120/120 hp/tq with mileage in the 30s. Those swaps are easy enough with a decently easy cost. If you want decent mileage with a bunch of power look into the Honda "K" swap, the FR setup has been done enough times it makes it easy enough to source the parts. That K swap will cost a BUNCH of money though. Another option for economy, if you tune it and drive it right. would be a stroked 22R.
From what I read about the 3gse and most inline engines is you need to widen the frame in the early second generation. The 22r is even tight in them. I can't turn the bleeder on my clutch slave cylinder without taking it off.
Put a 22RE in my brother's '72 with a slight move of the motor mounts. Don't remember any issues with the clutch slave bleeder valve. I do like the 7AGE, I really like the 7AGE. It's 1.8 liters and has a great power band. The one in my MR2 has 160hp and 156ftlb torque. It would do good in a 2WD pickup that doesn't lug around town.
Sorry, no thread anywhere. Got tired of putting up with haters, stopped posting in those sites. What would you like to know? I've done builds on the cheap and with decent budgets. Haven't done the Mannon stroker kit yet. So far all my builds have been N/A. Looking at a possible SC14 supercharger build.
PHUK Haters. I picked up a 2 owner '86 aw11 mkB with 160k. Ever since I drove it home and stood it on jack stands I haven't touched it. Gota finish my truck first. I have a parts list going and I'm after compression/rpms!! Any tips?
Tips for an MR2. Get it into good condition and learn to drive it in a stock condition. It's a different beast. Sucks on ice. Learn it's "personality". Brakes are good if properly maintained. Front end is light and makes it easy to lock the brakes. Stock suspension is a bit soft but good to start with. Urethane bushings make a big difference. Engine and gears are mated well. For mods? Do the research. If you know people with MR2s with mods see if they'll let you drive them. My opinion, suspension mods are more important than power mods.
That's interesting... I put an 18RG in my 1979 Celica (20R stock) and it was "plug-and-play" after finding an 18R/W50 bellhousing. No moving motor mounts (or trans mount) required. I thought 2xR and 18R had the same physical dimensions WRT the mounts.
18R and 2XR are a tad off in the trucks. the 18RC was a little narrower. The 18RG was fitted to the Celica, not sure if it was put in the truck, so the mounts would have been for a Celica. Less money to tool for the engine mount "wings" than to set up to make two separate crossmembers. Especially when the 18RG was the least installed engine. The Celica also had the options of a 2TC, 2TB, 3TC, 3T-EU, 18RC, 18RG and 20R