I'm in the midst of breaking in my newly rebuilt 22R engine (1982 Toyota Pickup, RWD, 5-speed manual). I'm observing the following: Ignition is firing at 12° BTC. That's as close as I can get to the specified 8° BTC before the distributor hits the adjustment stop. I tried pulling the distributor and turning it by one tooth on the drive gear, but there is apparently no overlap in the adjustment because I can't even get it close that way. The engine idles smoothly at about 1050 rpm, drives well, and pulls hills without any trouble. That said, it doesn't seem to have quite as much torque as I expected after a complete rebuild. Also, I'm only getting about 20 mpg (I was expecting 24-27 mpg). I adjusted the valves before starting it the first time, but have not checked them since. (I have about 230 miles on the break-in so far.) I haven't checked the compression either, but I don't expect that to be an issue. I am getting a small amount of backfire in the exhaust when I take my foot off the accelerator while in gear (reverse torquing the engine). I get no backfire when the truck is not in gear. My suspicion is that I have the cam shaft advanced by one tooth on the timing chain. I'm going to change the oil and check the valves at 500 miles. I'm thinking of pulling the cam shaft sprocket and turning it back by one tooth. I'd like to get some input from some knowledgeable people first. Please feel free to comment.
What carb do you have on it? idle is high. Timing should be fine, i had mine around 10° On stock ignition components. The pops thru the exhaust are fine off throttle in gear,
Right on. May need to bring the idle down. Its high. If you cant i get it, mine wont idle very well below 800rpm. Have it around 900-1000, damn thing just bounces around
Do you have the fuel pump lube installed? If you dont have one and no spacer it will throw your dizzy out of time.
Shit can that actually do that? I dont have it installed on mine and could never get it timed by what the book says
I think it would because of the helical gear. So it would be like having the dizzy spaced on the head and not meshing right.
Do a vacuum check. I installed the 32/36 with the 3 piece manifold adapter. Never could get it to seal tight. Ended up spreading aircraft grade gasket sealer around all the seams. This could be your idle issue. With vacuum gage attached to a manifold source, with engine running, use a can of spray silicone around all the seams on the adapter. If vacuum increases you’ve got a vacuum leak. If you have the one piece adapter you’re probably fine. I’d still do the vacuum check. It can tell you a lot about how your engine is running. It won’t hurt to spray the intake manifold to cylinder head gasket at the same time.
I hear/heard this a lot about the Weber conversion kits. That's why I go back and forth about buying the smog legal kit for my 1979 Celica.
I got mine from Weber Carbs Direct. They are cheapest out there but use that crappy 3 piece adapter. If you go with Weber Redline (better quality) I believe that have the one piece carb to manifold adapter. The 3 piece kit is crap.
I had to redo my Weber multi-piece adapter too, was definitely leaking. I believe I also ended up changing the jets one size from stock config to get mine to run right, but I don't really remember what I did as it's been a while since In regard to adapters - I don't remember why they said, but I do recall calling up LCE and Redline to ask a bunch of carburetor questions and do recall there is no single piece adapter for the 20r to resolve the common leak issue
Trans dapt makes the one piece. I have one on order from jegs. 50 bucks but it takes forever to ship.
I knew there was one out there without going to a machinist. Aside from less leakage potential - any other benefits?