clutch problem

Discussion in 'Engine/Drivetrain' started by Gary Bergerson, Oct 16, 2015.

  1. Gary Bergerson

    Gary Bergerson Newbie

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    Location:
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    Truck:
    '94 22R extended cab 4whl drv and '79 18' Toyota/huntsman RV
    My 94 22R is in great shape at 144,000 miles but this clutch problem is threatening to end this truck too early. My mechanic says this hydraulic clutch is inside the bell housing and tells me to get rid of it. I don't think these guys like working on old units with all the broken bolts causing headaches. So I am going to have to deal with this myself/won't be the first time. But once in a while it will stick in neutral when the truck is stationary. Clutch at other times will just go to the floor without engaging at all once in while. After a bit I can get it to engage on the second try. Any opinions as to what I am looking at would be very much appreciated. The truck is in such good condition, I don't want to give up on this yet. thanks so much
     
  2. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    You need to do 2 things. First off find a new mechanic shop, your current go-to isn't worth their weight in rabbit turds. Your truck has an external slave cylinder that is non adjustable and easily changed. Second go to your favorite parts store and plop down under $30 for a new brake master cylinder and slave cylinder along with a bottle of dot 3 brake fluid if you don't have some fluid on hand already.

    Now you'll need any of the repair manuals or writeups found online on the replacement of the parts you bought and about an hour since this will be your first time. Toyotas are solid rigs that are very user friendly to maintain so you'll be fine doing any work yourself from here on out.
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2015
  3. Robert m

    Robert m Addict

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    *Clutch master cylinder
     
  4. Gary Bergerson

    Gary Bergerson Newbie

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    OK

    Music to my ears... things I can deal with/I'll get:
    -external slave cylinder and a
    -clutch master cylinder along with
    -fluid to refill it all...
    Then go online and get the schematics and instructions to replace them.
    Thanks for your time and advise. I'll post progress here and look fwd to
    driving this great truck a few more years.
     
  5. 390armstrong

    390armstrong Member

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    Just did this in my v6 kinda..mine was a headache because the previous owner had the slave holding on with epoxy... All i can say is its not hard to do...make sure you bench bleed the new clutch master before you put it on and get a one person bleeder unless you have a second person to help...
     
  6. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    You probably don't need both the slave and master but heck the system will be open and they're easy to change.

    To figure out which one it is start by pulling the carpet behind the clutch pedal away from the firewall and feeling for oil. If the carpet backing is wet it's from the master cylinder leaking down the inside of the firewall. If that is dry jack the passenger front corner up and look up at the bellhousing below the starter and you'll see a piece the slave cylinder. Squeeze the rubber bellows, if oil squirt out its the slave.
     
  7. White Trash

    White Trash Toyotaholic

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    :lol: yea that too! That's what I get for posting while pumping gas.
     
  8. Gary Bergerson

    Gary Bergerson Newbie

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    back on the road

    Thanks so much for the advise. I used instructions from ehow.com which has worked well for me before. My 10mm open end was really sloppy on the hydr
    line collar nuts. I called an old friend down the road and he had me come and get his "fuel line wrench" which he happened to have. He somehow has what I need all the time. But this wrench fit much better and I felt good enough about it to torque hard on these old nuts without breaking them. Now shifting like new. Thanks again
    for taking the time to straighten me out.............
     
  9. Owen Branigan

    Owen Branigan Newbie

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    Gary, glad to hear you got it working. Now it's my turn.

    I am having similar problems. My clutch pedal only disengages the pressure plate at the last inch of travel, and i have to shut off the car to put it in reverse.
    This is actually the second time this has happened. My mechanic replaced my slave clutch cylinder 2 months ago but the same issue has come back, (explained above.)
    I plan to tackle this myself, as both the master and slave seem relatively easy to access and replace, and because i want to identify what is causing this issue to come back.

    So far what i can determine is
    - the master reservoir seems to be empty from popping the cap.
    - no signs of leakage near the clutch pedal in the cab or anywhere on the line between the master and the slave.
    - I do see a very mild drip collecting at the lowest point of the transmission. The fluid seems to be clear and could be the clutch fluid, but i cannot find any path of travel that would connect them to each other.

    I am looking for any general advice on the diagnosis part of this repair. the bleeding and removal install are within my skill level, but i am running out of ideas for where this fluid is going to determing the leaking point.

    - my only idea is to fill up the resevoir and have a friend just pump the heck out of the pedal until i find something.

    THOUGHTS??? thanks!
     
  10. Liquidhandwash

    Liquidhandwash Enthusiast

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    The slave cylinder has a rubber boot which you can remove easily. Take it off and have a look it should be dry on the inside of the boot. If its fill of fluid you will need to replace the cylinder. The parts are cheap and its only two bolts and a hose so It's an easy fix.
    The master cylinder also has a boot on it you can remove but its more difficult to get to.
     
  11. Owen Branigan

    Owen Branigan Newbie

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    thanks Liquidhandwash, i will pull back the boots on both to take a closer look for leaks

    Last night i checked the reservoir again and it was just below the minimum requirement. I topped off the resevoir and started to shift like new again. Woohoo!

    This morning when i went to work i was able to shift, but was back to having difficulty. I can get from one gear to the next but takes a second to "lock in", and reverse grinds, so i have to turn it off and shift into reverse first.

    I assumed that there would be an obvious leak in the line when i checked the master upon arrival at work, but the fluid level hadn't gone down at all. This makes me think that the master or the slave are not functioning properly....
     
  12. drrossw

    drrossw Newbie

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    Hi Owen,
    Just wondering if you ever got your clutch issue sorted? I am having the same issue with my '90 SR5 4x4 extend cab 3VZE. I replaced both master and slave and had it professionally bled 4 times. Recently an experienced Toy guy told me that some aftermarket clutch plates are very slightly out of spec and could be the problem of not allowing enough clearance to let the clutch release properly. He always uses OEM for that reason. cheers.
     
  13. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    Your slave cylinder should have adjustable nuts to contact the clutch arm. Be sure this is properly adjusted.
    I don’t worry about the factory recommend clearance, just extend the slave pin ‘till it’s just touching the arm. My unit is a lot older than yours, but basic principle should be the same.
     
  14. drrossw

    drrossw Newbie

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    I'll give it a try. Thanks mate.
     
  15. drrossw

    drrossw Newbie

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    That helped. It's not like new but much better. Thanks.
     
  16. fred heath

    fred heath Addict

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    It’s often overlooked. As your clutch disc wears down, you may have to adjust again. If you notice slipping, you may have to back off the pin a little.
    Toyota built some pretty awesome trucks.
     

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