Thank you sir!

 

Don't spend too much time doing body work, lol.

We need some more youtube videos of 1uz trucks tearin' it up!

 

Hahah! there will be video man, lots of them. But I gotta figure out some cooling issues. At the moment the truk starts and runs fine but within a min and a half the Toyota Gage spikes up to overheating red when the engine is still cold. I'm not sure if it is actually overheating of if the Gage is readying off. Been doing some research to see if ppl have had issues with the Toyota Gage and 1uz temp sensor mismatching signals. Besides that I just need to bleed my clutch a little more and I'll drive if for the second time making sure the drivetrain is complete then I'll start on the rest of the body.

 

I have the same temp gauge issue with my 1uz swapped pickup. I haven't tried using the 22re sensor yet. I chose to use this cool and cheap temperature controller I found on ebay.

I use it to monitor the temp and control the e-fans. Haven't had any issues with it for over a year now. I modified the 17mm bolt on the thermostat housing to hold the temp probe. If you decide to get one, make sure you get the 12 volt version. They come in 12 volt and 120 volts. I also use an external relay to power the fans. I'm sure this controller cannot handle the amps that a fan would draw through it.

 

This is g

This is some great news man honestly. Knowing other have the same issues helps my piece of mind. I was starting to think something went wrong with the head gaskets I put in during the build smh.
But as far as the fans goes, I got a cooling fan thermostat controller kit, came with a temp sensor and hardware eBay part #262044750243. The sensor is supposed to ground out at about 170 degrees which will kick the fans on. I'll take some pictures and post them later tonight. I haven't ran the truck long enough to test it out since I've been under the impression that the engine has been overheating.
So I am going to get an infrared thermostat/ tester and monitor the temps while I wait for the fans to kick on. Once I get that going I'll then figure out what to do about the Gage. I'm supposed to be building a custom Gage so I might just wait for that, or do something else, most likely what you used but we will see. But thanks for the info man it really helps

 

Thanks for the post. Great info!

 

Here's my cooling system setup.

Two fans, did some mod on the core support to to fit the rediator and the Create more room for the front of the engine.


The fan relay is in the fuse box. When the coolant temp reaches 175F, thermostat sensors grounds out completing the circuit and turning the fan on.

 

That's a slick setup. I like. I have to find a way to get proper cooling and keep my AC.

 

So I ran into an issue today. Since I started the truck for the first time today I decided to trace some codes and I found out I am unable to pull from the ecu. The CEL stays lit at all times. When I jump the treat connector pins I am unable to pull the codes because the cel won't blink. Any help guys? Btw I used this build thread info to wire up the truck
http://www.uzswap.com/index.php?topic=254.0;prev_next=prev#new

 

What year is the wiring and ECM from?

 

I'm not sure what you mean but my engine is off a 96 sc400. My ecu got the big plugs. The pickup I'm working on is a 94 pickup. Does that answer your question?

 

i'm so stoked to see how this turns out. I'm debating buying a 1UZ off my brother in laws dad for $500 and swapping it into my truck.

 

Not being able to pull codes ( non blinking CEL light when activating diagnostics) is the tell tale sign of a bad ecu. Open your ecu and look under the capacitors. If you see brown/black residue under any of them they have failed. If the solder leads directly under the capacitors are a dull gray instead of shiny silver, the capacitor is starting to fail. You can use any year SC400 ecu with your motor but the early 90-92 SC400 motors have a cold start injector circuit that doesn't exist on the later versions. The motor will still run fine but cold starts will take 2-3 tries.

 

I opened it already to check and I didn't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I'll try to give it a detail look today and see what's going on. But looking at the install thread, do you see anything out of place?

 

I would still replace them if they aren't leaking. The leak may not be visible until soldered off. Here is a picture i posted where they seemed ok but the leak was close to the bottom of the capacitor and had not made it to the board yet which was causing weird symptoms.

 

It's unclear, but which one of these in the pic was going bad?

 

Only the capacitors. The 3 cylinders with the silver tops.

 

Thank you. I'll open the ecu and get some details of the capacitors and get things going.

 

So a few nights ago I pulled the ECU and opened it. Inspected the internals visually and didn't find anything damage.




But as recommend I'll be replacing the caps anyways. I had to get them online because I couldn't find any locally.
While waiting, I decided to dig into why my transmission wouldn't go in to gear when the truck is running.
Issues:
When the truck is idling, it wouldn't let me get into gear. It grinds and jerks when attempting to get into reverse. Sometimes I would have to pump the clutch multiple times before it would engage. This works one out of every 5 tries. On bad days I'll have to shut the truck off, engage first gear, compress the clutch and then start the engine. This works okay. When I do start the truck this way, v I can tell that the clutch somehow stays simi engaged. Like if I'm playing with the engagement and disengagement of the clutch by regulating the clutch pedal, the gap is almost close to nothing. If I completely release the clutch pedal the truck starts to move in its own which is not a bad thing but at the pace I felt like there was more to that story. So yesterday I decided to pull the tranny just to check and make sure everything in there was seated as they should be, and to make sure I had no leaks from the fluid lines.
And this is my findings:
The collar of the release bearing assembly have been riding on the clutch splince





The splince on the clutch itself is fine, but you can see how the aluminum got chewed up on the release bearing.


So questions:
Was I supposed to modify the release bearing prior to installing it? It seems like the release bearing has been broken in at this point but I it doesn't look like the spring on the bearing is being compressed far down enough upon mounting the tranny. Which would be decreasing the movement/ travel of the release bearing upon depressing the clutch for a full disengagement:/??
Thoughts please!

 

Btw, I am using a stage 2 93 v6 4Runner clutch.