Cool. Do you remember what size washer you had to use? And thanks again for all the information!!

 

Naw, I have a Folgers can full of washers that I just sifted through until I found one that fit.

 

4Runner Mirror Install Part I

Last weekend I installed some 4Runner mirrors. I had to remove the panel mounted fugly mirrors. Apparently this truck only had a drivers side mirror installed and someone installed a passenger one later on (hence the nutserts). I'll be shaving the holes later on.


Here is a pic with my passenger side fugly mirror removed. I started by drilling pilot holes using the existing inside mount holes located behind the mirror panel.



Then I used a 3/4" holesaw to drill bigger holes. I then used a cutoff wheel to cut the rest. This pic shows two side cut with the bottom remaining.



These are the mounting bolts I used. I had totally forgotten them and had to scrounge around looking for them. I was missing one so I had to find a backup. And yes that's the cover's snap broken inside it's housing. I'll have to buy a replacement cover. They break so easily.



Here is the new mirror installed.



Both installed.



Up next time wiring up these puppies with the wire that I bought from allelectronics.com. Very reasonably priced wire.




M

 

Truck is looking good. Those small covers do break all the time. Mine just fall off after a while from a combination of the sun baking them and closing the doors.

 

I may have to call your work for that cover, if they are still available.

I am reconsidering dropping the truck. At most 3 inches. But I want to do it right so I'll probably spring for spindles and leafs. No blocks or torsions for me.

 

They are still available. Just give us a call.
Your truck is clean and would look nice dropped a little.

 

Called and got it ordered. Coming out of Kansas the guy said. I called around 3:45ish. Price wasn't bad. Like $7 shop cost.

 

Small update. I just went from this:




To this:

 

Awwww that's kinda a big update ya got there. Lookin good man.

 

Nice. I dig it.

 

Thanks buds, half of it was done before (grill and lights). But the bumper was a bit harder for me to get. Not to mention the brackets. I eventually ordered a pair of aftermarket brackets for about $32 for the set.

I'm a bit backlogged on things I wanna do. I've got a bunch of pans on the oven. For example:

I've already made wiring diagrams to complete the power mirrors. I was going to put the directional pad on the dash. But I've decided to go further and put it on the armrest (tacoma armrest). Which I don't have yet. They are fairly hard to find.

I'm also going to rewire the power windows to a 5 pin setup (that I just learned) so it will allow me to have a master control switch armrest with two switches on the left side. I would be able to control the driver and passenger windows. And also a single switch (ordered) for the passenger side armrest. Basically my interior will look like a 96 Tacoma door panel hybrid. I'll post wiring diagrams for everything once I do it, for all to share.

Lastly, I eventually intend to put a Tacoma dash inside too. I've got my eye on a couple.

 

Not to mention the 4runner front brakes I just gotta make brackets for. Never-ending struggle!

 

Looks like you have been busy! Truck is looking good.

 

Well, I ended up buying drop leafs, spindles, and shocks. Was able to install the leafs and rear shocks on it today but didn't take it off the jack stands yet because I still need to drill and tap a mount for my lowered bump stops. I won't be able to get back to it until at least tomorrow afternoon. I have a bunch of stuff lined up for Saturday morning.

Will post pics soon.

 

Well last Friday I took a little time off to install the rear drop leafs, shorter bump stops, and shocks.

Had to drill and tap so the bump stop would just screw in.



Screwed in with lock-tite.



Rear done the noticably higher front is next.




The front I decided to do shocks, flip ball joints w/washers, shorter bump stops, and drop spindles.


Here is the left side mid way through. This took a lot longer than I initially thought.



Just back today from a trip to the alignment shop.

 

What are your wheel and tire specs? It looks like your running about the same as me.

 

I forget the details but they are 350z wheels they are staggered I put the deeper ones in the back and the others up front. Or something like that, it's been a while. They are 18 inch wheels. I'll have to get back to you on the tires.

 

About the tires

The tires I'm running are 225/40 R18.

 

W58 Tranny Install

After doing a ton of research and getting a lot of very helpful tips from WhiteTrash and other helpful members of this site, I (a novice mechanic) was able to install a W58 transmission. Here is the gist of how it went.


Purchased a W58 transmission from an 82 Celica Supra. I made sure to get the vin # off the vehicle in case I needed to order parts (it's good practice when at a junk yard). I got it as complete as possible, meaning with bellhousing, speedo cables, shifters, and anything attached to it. Here it is after a quick degreasing. I didn't worry about the bellhousing as it was to be changed.


After removing the shifter base I noticed that all my shifter bushings were in very bad shape. I had to use a magnet to remove the bushings out from the tranny.


I then ordered a bushing repair kit from https://w58bushings.wordpress.com/. They were a little pricey but I was very impressed with how it all came out in the end.


This is the start of the process of repairing the deteriorated bushing.


Remove inner busted up metal bushing and rotted rubber portion.


Cleaning finished and new shift socket bushing upgrade JB welded in.



After replacing the output seal (no pics) I cleaned and painted the front bearing retainer while also replacing the front input seal.


Here is the old input seal on the right with the new input seal on the left.


New input seal in place on cleaned inside of front bearing retainer.


Here is the front bearing retainer replaced with Toyota brand gasket maker and painted silver. I just didn't like the rusted bare metal look.


Dropped the old truck tranny.


Truck tranny with bellhousing I need in background and W58 in foreground.


Bellhousing off.


Bellhousing on.


Reverse light sending units. Pickup left, Celica Supra right.


New throwout bearing installed. I also installed a new clutch kit and flywheel. (no pics, sorry)


Truck speedo cable removed from all hold downs will easily reach the speedo sending unit especially if you use the supra elbow adapter.


Supra shifter and knob installed into 2" cut back floor. Bootless at least until tomorrow.




M

 

My speedo correction box from Commercial Speedometer Service in West Sacramento came in on Saturday. Actual cost was $85 shipped. When I called them I mentioned the percentage off my speedo was. Mine was 16.67%. So he said I needed an increase of 17%. This is what showed up:




I installed my old 33 tooth driven gear and added the speedo correction box inline.




Took it for a test drive and bam, speedo is back to reading correct.



For anyone wanting to know how to figure what percentage off your speedo is, just figure it like this:

Get/borrow a GPS. Drive around 30mph on speedo and record what your GPS mph says. Then drive around 40mph on speedo and record what your GPS mph says. You could do another one at 50mph but you don't necessarily have to.

Then the math part.

Divide (speedo mph) / (GPS mph).

example: 30/36 = 0.833

Then multiply answer by 100

example: 0.833x100 = 83.3

Then subtract 100

example: 83.3-100 = 16.6

Round up accrodingly

16.6 = 17%


Now depending on if your speedo is faster or slower than gps determines whether you need an increase or decrease of speedo correction.

If your speedo is slower than gps then you'll need an increase.

If your speedo is faster than gps you'll need a decrease.


Enjoy!