I had my truck towed to the shop today to see what's the problem, the guy said the timing chain is toast and because a lot of parts in this motor are aluminum he told me I need a new motor he said that when the timing chain broke it acted like a chain saw and 99% of the time I need to change the motor...
Um, no. That's BS. Yes, you may need a new timing chain cover, but that's cheap. The only other part that it could contact would be the head, and they aren't too expensive either if it somehow managed to chew it up, although that isn't too likely. If it is an interference engine, there may be damage to the pistons and valves. But I'm not sure about that. I know for a fact that a complete new engine isn't required, although buying a long block may be easier and cheaper if you aren't building it.
What Lit said. I'd say its time for a new mechanic or at the very least, a second opinion. I don't think the 22r is an interference motor but I'll have to check on it. Also, its not like the timing chain breaks and it runs for another 10,000 miles with a grinding noise as it chews its way through the engine block, the front of the radiator and starts attacking random pedestrians on the street. even if it wears into the water jacket (whatever its called) you would just have to replace the block or the head. Just my opinion, but I think your being told a tale.
I agree with them, I'm pretty sure stock motors are non interference, which means you'll likely only need a timing set and maybe a front cover.
It is an interference engine... Your mechanic as with most shops would rather swap motors with a known good one than to rebuild due to time/cost effectiveness. If you prefer or have the means to rebuild it yourself you could spend roughly $650 on parts for a new head and a complete rebuild kit. Or check your local yard for a low mile used engine while you rebuild...
Do I hear the whistling wine of a turbo in this motors future? If ya need to pull the motor might as well hook up some HP to it.
Would a running 22r with a bad guide have any interference? If the chain is intact.... I guess the timing COULD slip and pistons would smack valves, but does anyone know if there would be definite interference with just A guide out? Just curious.
Thanks B.Y.E. for clearing that up. YOguyDA, I wouldn't think so. As I understand it, the guide is there as just a way to tension the length of chain between the cam and the crank. Not having the guide there could result in "chain slap" and wear on the housing and chain but from looking at it in pics, I didn't see enough slack, or room in the area for the chain to actually dislodge itself. It can, and has been known to "Jump a tooth", which will have the timing off, but It would have to "jump a tooth" multiple times in order for it to have the timing off so bad that it actually starts hitting valves, and then I doubt it would run well, if at all. Theres a lot of swing in the degrees of timing available even to tune the engine. Usually (from what I know) when an interference engine has problems is when a timing belt breaks and causes damage as the engine rotates to a stop on its own or when it dies and the driver starts cranking on the starter to restart it, thus turning the crank and pistons and smacking whatever valves are open at the time. I could be wrong on this and if I am, hopefully someone will chime in and correct me, but thats my opinion.
I found this on the subject: is the 22re an interference engine (not a stupid question) - YotaTech Forums It should make everything clear as mud.
Or just come here. Your 20R/22R/E motor is interference. Breaking a chain and not bending valves will be a luck of the draw type of deal.
if your bottom end didn't rotate more than 40* past the top end and you were on the compression stroke you might not have bent your valves
