My 76 20r truck was running great no issues. Bump the the key and started every time. I was sitting idling in a drive thru and it shut off. Hit the key and started right back for about 30 seconds then shut off again never to restart. so this is what I know, New coil, the primary and secondary readings where off on the old one. New ballast resistor the old one had no resistance. I had already replaced plug wires, cap and rotor before this happened and everything inside the the distributor looks new and good. I'm getting voltage all the way down to the wire attached to the out side of the distributor but still no spark. I don't know much about ignition problems so any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks
What brand coil did you get how long has it been in service . . These parts store coils or Chinese/Mexico parts give up quick if your not getting a spark from the coil wire at the cap I'd suspect the coil/ingnitor I'd start there .
Thanks man. Its actually a new parts house coil on it now that i put on it after it happened. so it doesnt have any any service on it yet. I guess I'll try to find an ingnitor since I think thats the only thing left to replace. Thanks for your reponse Scrub88
Are you getting power to the coil?I'm not sure of that years set up but I would start by checking power to the coil from your ign fuse.
I guess the box mounted on top of my coil bracket is the ingnitor? If it is i'm having a hard time finding one. Anyone got any ideas http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9485&stc=1&d=1368411196 http://www.toyotaminis.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9486&stc=1&d=1368411313
yes thats the ignitor.is that a 20r in your truck? you should be able to get one off a 22r truck or just get an after market MSD.
if your tired of Toyota ignition parts or need something cheaper and parts everywhere there always this option Bypass Toyota Ignition and Coil
Don't buy those its the same thing as using a gm hei ignition .theres nuttin wrong with the Toyota dizzy its the coil and ignitior that leave you stranded ............buy .2 .hei modules one backup in the glove box 20 bucks any coil you choose preferbly blaster msd coil 35 dollars handful of female wire connectors 30 minutes of your time . Reliable and cheap ... And cleans up the engine bay save 400 dollars
Hey scrubb88 got a question for ya or for anyone who knows. That bypass link you sent me, it's pretty straight forward but it says to take both distributor wires and hook the the the module. Well my distributor only has one wire. Any idea on what I should do? Thanks for all of y'all's help!!
O yea you have a none electronic dizzy one wire that's a signal wire ...this might work with a hei 4 prong module putting the one signal wire on w or g terminal they both go to the same little conversion chip inside the module( designed for electric dizzy ) then grounding the other terminal w or g wich everyone you didn't pick and of course c and b to coil and also Ground The module body itself like normal .hei use heat sink compound a must .....................I'm not I entirely sure this works ..wired like this ( like juggling chain saws somebody's gotta try it) ...if not any 77 to 95 r series distributer will work and is two wire and easliy converts to hei modules Most guys make a little metal plate for the hei to sit on sandwiched with heat sink compound greatly improves there life span
Scrub thanks for your help man. I'm going to try that set up this weekend. First with my existing distributor. If no luck I'll try a 77 to 95 one. So thru all those years they're the same it won't matter? If you think of any more tips or tricks please let me know. Thanks again.
Any r series motor dizzy from 78-95 will work from what I've experienced and herd/witnessed the 2 wire dizzy won't work with your 76 igniter ..so if u update the dizzy either use hei module or a newer 78-95 igniter/coil combo or grab everything off the donor car ignition related to go with the new dizzy .. That is if the one wire dizzy wont except the hei unit wich I would try first.. might fry the the hei or might work 15ish bucks worth a shot 22r distributer caps are larger as well as the base of the dis that and the vacuum advance is a little more aggressive range wise this is not a big deal nor a worry . A timing light will be needed to dial in the truck in after all this tho
Hey scrub88 just wanted to let you know I did The conversion today. I opted to go with a 78 20r dizzy and the conversion you recommended to me and it worked great! I'm back rolling again. thanks again man!!
does this only work with magnetic distributors or does this bypass the points in the distributor? It says it is getting the magnetic signal from the distributor, does this mean I have to replace the points with a magnetic setup? "the magnetic pickup will signal the ignition module through the wires attached to terminals W & G to create a ground on post C, which then grounds the coil and makes it discharge through the spark plug wire and back into the distributor cap." Edit* never mind I read on I'm dumb, put in a 2 wire distributor with magnets and then do the GM stuff... correct?
Yup check out the Petronix ignition conversion peace it fits inside your old dizzy and replaces the points with a magnetic pickup ... Then just add your choice of igniter either newer oem Toyota and coil or gm hei module and your choice of universal coil. And if u use a hei module .. Use a plate to mount it and put heat sink compound under the module ...usaly can find heat sink compound at a parts store or a computer radio shack kinda place
Thanks, Scrub88 I acually just left the junk yard with a 1980 20r magnetic distributor! someone grabbed the coil and igniter from it before me so it looks like I will need to go with the GM bypass. I will let you know how it works, prob wont get around to it until next week though.Thanks for the help! EDIT* If i use the GM ignition module (Autozone PN: DR100) do I need the heat sink compound for it? Also the 1980 distributor advance is much different than mine(mine has a adjustment twist nob on it) the one JY I got has a large white thing directly in the middle of the vacuum line (check valve?) and no adjustment. When I put this in will it be ready to go. Is the timing procedure the same? sorry for all the questions I'm a noob thanks.
