I have been having a coolant issue ever since the Nevada sun started heating this hell hole past 100 degrees. First I replaced the stuck open thermostat with a over the counter pepboys thermostat and a new radiator cap and a new upper radiator hose since the old one was very soft. Drive Drive Drive bam!!!! the bypass hose popped so I replaced that. Everything was great, another bottle of coolant and everything was dandy. Ok so I took it down the street and on the way back I see the temp gauge creep up to the red. I got home and the overflow bottle was empty and the spit hose on top was whistling and now I am stuck. What the hell do I do next. I am so tempted to bring it to a shop but I don't trust anyone out here. I do trust a local shop who owns his own shop and does all the work himself but he is about 30 miles away.
Yea my bud lives out there sent me a pic yesterday 110 degrees the condition of the radiator is it rusty funky looking inside reduced flow ? Disappearing coolant ..is the motor eating the coolant or was it just low from the previous hose burst Bleed the coolant system .air causes cavitation in the flow of coolant Fill it up completely and add to the reservoir and drive it monitor coolant level after it cools if it starts to overheat on normal driving ...blocked flow or early signs of head gasket If your loosing coolant with no leaks the motor may burn some off this can cause overheating and over cooling ....you maybe seeing the head gasket start to fail .wich I no it's not what ya wanna here
I was thinking head gasket as well. I did bleed the coolant yesterday and it seems to be fine. I also added a additive to the coolant that will help seal sh!t up, Hopefully. lol. I knew it had some type of air in it but i wasn't on that much of an incline when i burped it. Now i did. Lifting up where the overflow was above the dash. Thanks scrub. I plan on getting a new motor within the next year. But I would love to keep pushing this one. It has only 256k miles and I want to see how high I could get it. Would the milage still count if I rebuild it?
All that BS that ppl add to coolant to seal stuff up is garbage. I replaced my headgasket earlier this yr, as it was pushing coolant out the overflow tank, and Iwas always having to add it. Just pull the plugs and look inside at the pistons...if any appear clean, and the others black..thats your problem. But the guy I bought my truck from obviously put some of that "barr's leaks" crap in there and I promise you all the coolant ports in the block to head area were 80% clogged. That stuff is designed to find irregularities and fill them. Such as your coolant ports.....
X2 I don't like mechanic in a bottle . That liquid copper stuff clogs radiators heater cores and thermostats .. I'm not a fan of it but . If your planning on a rebuild while the motors out flush your heater core and radiator try to remove all the gunk and copper it will be a way more efficient cooling system with that stuff out Mileage won't effect your rebuild if your rotating assembly is in good condition . The block and the crank can be machined and be ready for reuse .. You'll want to focus on the head and make sure it's flat and not cracked in any location sense it has over heated a few times .. But all parts should be inspected and the rebuild should go smoothly
ok I will stay away from it. I did use seafoam in the gas tank because I was having a hard time passing smog. I know I need new piston rings and valve gaskets so a rebuild should be in the near future. I just have to take a week off from work or pay someone to do it. Do you recommend seafoam for the intake? I know it is messy inside my throttle body and EFI. Should I take it off and clean it by hand or seafoam it?
That stuff is acceptable...and works, it doesnt perform miracles, but it will help clear any gunk out..
Sea foam will work ..I prefer a big ass can of carb cleaner and wedged the throttle body open with a peace of wood or something on the cable connection area ... And spray like no tomorrow . Get all in the corners and and just soak it down .....truck will not want to start for a bit so give it a little time and it will crank up
Since it's so hot over there pull out that thermostat so it can get a constant flow and stay cooler.Most toyota owners on Guam just pull them out.
X3 I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy that ive had countless nightmares because the previous owner used that crap. It had a small leak on the intake mani gasket and it would constantly burn on the head and stink. Put new manifold gaskets in as well as hoses and t-stat and I was good for a year... Now my heater core and radiator are plugging up because of that crap. FML Since it's been hot lately my truck runs warm now. Ive back flushed the heater core and rad 3 times now but I gotta break down and replace them finally. All because those stop leak additives. Just figured I'd share my story... Good luck with the truck bro.
Seafoam is oil based and will eventually leave things dirty again. Use B-12 Chemtool, it's an actual solvent and ****'s been around for a looooooooong time. Works extremely well. One can in the gas tank will do you good. then some intake/ carb cleaner spraying inside the intake chamber. Use Toyota Red coolant.
I replaced the thermostat because the other one was stuck open. I thought that was the problem. driving around in 110 degrees is a little hot. LOL. Right now it is good. It will stay at 1/4 way for the most part. the highest it will reach is about 1/2. yeah I will not use that stuff again. maybe thats why my cousins cars always fail on him. he has more additives then actual product. lol. Well I will clean the intake and throttle body soon.
