OK, 22r-e 93 with a Supra AFM rest all stock

Rebuilt about 2 years ago by me. Ran Absolutely perfect - literally. I did all new vacuum lines 2 years ago, I am running brand new toyota plugs and wires, cap and rotor as of 1 week ago because of my idle, My TPS is with in spec, cleaned the throttle body, timing is set at 7, I just calculated my MPG and im still at 28, I have plenty of power i can hit 100mph no problem. But have a rough idle kinda sounds like a misfire. and a awkward exhaust note. I also reset my computer by unhooking my battery for a few hours and not a thing changed.

I am thinking its coming from some sort of sensor, but which? Or?

any one have any last suggestions before i get frustrated any further....?

 

What does it do when you put your 22re Afm back on ?

 

Haven't done it. but it is sitting im my garage. I shall try.

 

Nothing same idle

 

Hmmm.? So your vac lines are good and well connected I don't have a 22re so I'm not sure what sensor or if any besides the mas air meter are capable of causing a ruff idle I'm sure you got your plug wires in the right spot gotta ask haha. you said funny exhaust note is the only reason I say that.

 

could be injectors or the injector harness... there are a few splice points in the injector harness under the upper intake that tend to fail.... Or get a weak connection ..on a 22re ( trolling other sites
Found this on pirate4x4.com)

 

So its just at idle right? When gassing it it runs normal? I had that problem before but on a carbed set-up. I thought it was the carb so I kept fuggin with it and one day my brother in law checked it out and pulled the plug wires one by one with the motor running. he pulled #1 and the idle got worse then he pulled #2 same thing he pulled #3 and nothing changed then #4 and idle dropped. So i pulled of the head and found #3 had a bent valve and wouldnt shut all the way. Try that test might be a bent valve. Good luck

 

Funny thing is this happens alot with other people through searching. But no one has a good straight answer. It seems like 10 things can cause the same issue.

Here are my checks so far.

1. Vacuum lines. no leaks
2. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor. perfect
3. Timing, just put it back at 5, and adjusted idle screw no difference in idle really
4. Maf/afm swapped it, no difference
5. Fuel injectors, i sound scoped them they seem good
6. TPS in spec and cleaned throttle body "while on vehicle" I may take it off
7. O2 sensor i am assuming its ok since i would probably get a check engine light if it were failing or bad.
8. IAC, Seems to be operating fine, my truck warms up at higher RPM and then goes down to 750 +/- with in a few minutes. And i don't have a idle surge which a bad IAC can cause from research.
9. checked brake booster tube seems good i disconnect it and it wants to die, i put my thumb over it and goes back to normal so no leaks there.
10. EGR haven't checked it.

Any thing else i need to check?

Might do a valve adjustment. But i have no loss of power.

 

try adjusting the the cap rotor cap by twisting it ...one srew to just losin it then twist the rotor clock wise and counter clock wise and see if it change the idle...keep us posted

 

All had the typical effect of dying except number two has no change. guess i might have found my issue. maybe i just need to adjust my exhaust gap. i will pull the valve cover with in 24 hrs and report back. Did the paper towel check to it was pulling it in the tail pipe upon the stroke of #2 i guess

will driving just another day or so it hurt it further?

 

Exhaust valve on #2 was not sticking. it is fully closed gap is at .012 on all of them. Maybe its cracked or broke

 

VERDICT IS IN

It was my Intake valve on cylinder#2 There was no gap.

Valve adjustment, problem solved, now i have a smooth as hell running truck again.

 

Good deal at least it was something minor and didn't cost any cheese to fix

 

good deal... i had a simular prob but it was a loss in compression in one cyld